flashgo
DIY Practitioner
You should be able to just reverse the outer case so that the chrome end is around the DIN sockets and the black end faces forward.
Mini Local Reg'd Mother Board for those 321/729 Cards - Group Buy Interest Check
- Thread starter neiljadman
- Start date
You should be able to just reverse the outer case so that the chrome end is around the DIN sockets and the black end faces forward.
stackowax
pfm Member
I know this is lame but I'm having trouble identifying the parts needed for the Teddy Reg sections of the MB and for the Relay section. There seem to be so many possibilities (different voltages, different temperature ratings, different 'package' configurations) and I'm just not knowledgeable enough to know precisely what will and won't work -- let alone what will work best and won't sound good at all.
I'm wondering if someone could provide link (or links) to the appropriate part (I do have Neil's BOM but this doesn't identify the parts with enough specificity for someone--like me--who lacks enough knowledge of electronics to know which part to order). Since I'm in the States, the supplier would ideally be located here as well but if I have a reference from a UK site, I should be able to track it down through a US Supplier. I'm reasonably confident--but not 100% sure--I've got the right part for T1 so I'll supply the link for that.
T1 -- 2SK117
T2 -- D44H11
U1-- LM317
C1 -- C1 -- 0.1uF X7R Ceramic
And for the Relay section:
Q1 & Q2 -- BC560
D1 -- 1N1148
D2 --1N5250B Zener Diode
D3 -- 1N1148
C1-- 0.1uF Ceramic
I'm wondering if someone could provide link (or links) to the appropriate part (I do have Neil's BOM but this doesn't identify the parts with enough specificity for someone--like me--who lacks enough knowledge of electronics to know which part to order). Since I'm in the States, the supplier would ideally be located here as well but if I have a reference from a UK site, I should be able to track it down through a US Supplier. I'm reasonably confident--but not 100% sure--I've got the right part for T1 so I'll supply the link for that.
T1 -- 2SK117
T2 -- D44H11
U1-- LM317
C1 -- C1 -- 0.1uF X7R Ceramic
And for the Relay section:
Q1 & Q2 -- BC560
D1 -- 1N1148
D2 --1N5250B Zener Diode
D3 -- 1N1148
C1-- 0.1uF Ceramic
Dear Stackowax,
you can get ALL the components for the TRegs at Segor (Germany).
Also the Diode 1N4148 is available there (but not this Zener one and not the Relai 12V).
http://www.segor.de/
Olivier
PS:
1. For C6 do not forget to use the combi 10µF tantal with 10nFWima Film !and
2. the mini Motherboard have allready 4 TRegs in it so no need for any HiCap then. What you need is an external PSU for the TRegs. Lot (me incl.) use a simple HP brick (32V). Later I will build a more presentable PSU
you can get ALL the components for the TRegs at Segor (Germany).
Also the Diode 1N4148 is available there (but not this Zener one and not the Relai 12V).
http://www.segor.de/
Olivier
PS:
1. For C6 do not forget to use the combi 10µF tantal with 10nFWima Film !and
2. the mini Motherboard have allready 4 TRegs in it so no need for any HiCap then. What you need is an external PSU for the TRegs. Lot (me incl.) use a simple HP brick (32V). Later I will build a more presentable PSU
neiljadman
Senior Member
You could use the Hicap but it's absolutely not needed. A single raw 32v rail is quite sufficient - though I run mine at 30v off a 37v rail for a SNAPS
A 32v HP printer supply works very well too..
stackowax
pfm Member
But it sounds like the HiCap would need to be modified in some way to get it to output 32V (doesn't it output 24V in its standard form?)?
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
OK, I seem to be FILO (first in with the board; last out with the assembly). After many purchasing screw-ups and side trips into other projects, I've almost got my NJMB built and housed in an old 42 case.
Now I have some questions:
(1) How do I set up the rail decoupling for my NJ321/729 cards?
I'd like to be able to swap them back and forth between my Hi-Capped NAC72 and the NJMB. I currently have 56uF/25V Oscons + 0.10uF/50V BlackGate HiQs + 27R on the rails of the NJ321/729s. How about switching this to 47uF/50V Nichicon Muse + 0.1uF/100V Wima + 27R?
(2) What should I use to set higher Vouts on the TRs?
I've got some 5K multi-turn pots for R1, but the TR calculator is driving me a little bonkers. Long term, I plan to feed raw 34.4V from a NAP140 to the NJ42 and run its rails at ~28V. (I just overhauled the 140 so the rail out comes off a 10000uF res cap.) Short term, I'd like to pull the raw rail from a spare DIN on the back of the Hi-CAP (37V?) currently feeding a NAC72.
(3) Can I put a headphone jack in this thing?
There's a 0.83cm hole where the balance pot used to be, and the tape monitor switch could be used to switch between speakers & cans. Any suggestions on what and how to fit?
Now I have some questions:
(1) How do I set up the rail decoupling for my NJ321/729 cards?
I'd like to be able to swap them back and forth between my Hi-Capped NAC72 and the NJMB. I currently have 56uF/25V Oscons + 0.10uF/50V BlackGate HiQs + 27R on the rails of the NJ321/729s. How about switching this to 47uF/50V Nichicon Muse + 0.1uF/100V Wima + 27R?
(2) What should I use to set higher Vouts on the TRs?
I've got some 5K multi-turn pots for R1, but the TR calculator is driving me a little bonkers. Long term, I plan to feed raw 34.4V from a NAP140 to the NJ42 and run its rails at ~28V. (I just overhauled the 140 so the rail out comes off a 10000uF res cap.) Short term, I'd like to pull the raw rail from a spare DIN on the back of the Hi-CAP (37V?) currently feeding a NAC72.
(3) Can I put a headphone jack in this thing?
There's a 0.83cm hole where the balance pot used to be, and the tape monitor switch could be used to switch between speakers & cans. Any suggestions on what and how to fit?
1. if powered via HiCap then 2uF Wima XL (ask Andrew (Flatpopely)) or (what I currently use) 10uF Tant bypassed with 10nF Styroflex
2. if powered local with TeddyRegs then 10uF Tant bypassed with 10uF Wima MKS both:
a) for the C6 (output cap of the Tregs) and also
b) as decoupling cap for the 321s
(and dont forget to remove the 27R resistor if local powered !).
Muse as feedback caps are very good and very revealing so they can introduce some harshness depending on your system ...
Olivier
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
I was afraid of this. I was hoping to preserve flexibility and to be able to do some A-B comparisons with the same cards. But...
Sounds like I can't just swap the NJ cards back and forth between a NAC72 MB (Hi-Cap) and a NJ MB (local TRs). I'll need to commit cards to each unit with rail decoupling appropriate to the particular rail regulation.
Looking forward to what you decide. I've been following your lead on caps for the NJ cards. We seem to share similar tastes. Are you trying caps with higher voltage ratings? Neil likes the higher rails. OTOH, the effect of rail decoupling is profound!
Sounds like I can't just swap the NJ cards back and forth between a NAC72 MB (Hi-Cap) and a NJ MB (local TRs). I'll need to commit cards to each unit with rail decoupling appropriate to the particular rail regulation.
Looking forward to what you decide. I've been following your lead on caps for the NJ cards. We seem to share similar tastes.
Are you trying caps with higher voltage ratings? Neil likes the higher rails. OTOH, the effect of rail decoupling is profound!
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Thanks, Olivier!
Hmm, clearly I need to dedicate cards to the NJ MB and plan on some experimenting. Was there some discussion about rail decoupling with TRs on another thread?
As feedback!? I like Silmics for feedback, but I really like the big films currently on my NJ321 cards. Although I've generally become a film kind of guy for feedback (pre and power), I am experimenting with the Muses + 0.1uF Wima for Vbe bypass in a NAP140.
Hmm, clearly I need to dedicate cards to the NJ MB and plan on some experimenting. Was there some discussion about rail decoupling with TRs on another thread?
As feedback!? I like Silmics for feedback, but I really like the big films currently on my NJ321 cards. Although I've generally become a film kind of guy for feedback (pre and power), I am experimenting with the Muses + 0.1uF Wima for Vbe bypass in a NAP140.
Yes, and a very good one ! It was from Agent_cooper, will try to find it this evening.
Mmmhhh, not sure if I really understand it, but if you want to have the same decoupling caps for both configurations I can recommend the 10uF tant bypassed by a 10nF Wima (see the thread from Agent_Cooper). Before bypassing the tant with the styroflex in my NJ321s (powered by HiCap) I used the Wima 10nF. With the styroflex it's just slightly better. In my pre-phono (322s locally powered by 2 Tregs each) I use the 10uF Tant bypassed by 10nF Wima.
Yes I have Muse as feedback in the NJ321s and also as feedbacks caps in the 322 phono cards (2 Muse per cards) and they are really good !!!
Olivier
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Thanks, Olivier, I found Agent_Cooper's thread at http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=54640.
Bottom line is that I'll be building up a second set of Neil's 321 & 729 cards. That way I can dedicate one set to my conventional NAC72/HiCAP and another to the almost complete NJMB running higher TR'd rails.
Sounds like I need to revisit my STR'd Stageline. I've just got 1uF Wimas there for rail decoupling, and the feedback caps are 47uF/100V Silmics. Are you using mil-spec 30+V tants for the rail decoupling?
Bottom line is that I'll be building up a second set of Neil's 321 & 729 cards. That way I can dedicate one set to my conventional NAC72/HiCAP and another to the almost complete NJMB running higher TR'd rails.
Sounds like I need to revisit my STR'd Stageline. I've just got 1uF Wimas there for rail decoupling, and the feedback caps are 47uF/100V Silmics. Are you using mil-spec 30+V tants for the rail decoupling?
Hello Flashgo,
mines are radial tantal and look like:
http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5374075
Hope it helps.
Olivier
PS: the thread is the right one ;-)))
mines are radial tantal and look like:
http://de.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5374075
Hope it helps.
Olivier
PS: the thread is the right one ;-)))
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Simeon, I got mine from Michael Percy (PercyAudio.com). I've got an order "in progress". PM me, and I can try to add some on for you. (1 wk post to the UK ~ 1 quid.) The hi-q's are useful to have in your spice cabinet when you're experimenting with cap blends. They rescued my Oscons as rail caps -- added back just the right amount of bite.
BUT, per discussion just above, you probably only want the hi-qs bypassing C1 if you're running a Hi-CAP or similar. If you're using Neil's MB, the TRs will want something like a 3.3 to 10uF Wima in for C1 (possibly in combination with a 10uF tant) -- and R1 should be replaced with a wire link.
I may still win the slowest build. I was just about to rip out the guts of a NAC42 and install Neil's MB in its place when another thread just popped up about modding the 42 MB. As I need to put together a budget system, I'm going to use the 42 for that project. Now I need to find a nice box deserving of Neil's MB and cards.
Flash