Actually, my surround processor would require the HT mode of the MDAC PSU, so I'm not sure how this would affect the digital pass through of the MDAC
1) My Sonos output frequency varies plus/minus 5Hz, whereas the KI CD doesn’t vary at all. There are some modifications you can get to the digital output stage of the Sonos, do you think these would “cure” this, or is it too insignificant to bother?
2) Will the HQ PSU mean I can finally do away with the Audiolab pre-amp as it has an analogue pass-through as a selected input? (I think you have me on your list of pre-orders?).
3) Where can you download the bit-perfect files from?
John mentioned them a while back in the original CDQ thread. As far as I know;
Mono blocs with balanced input and 'cross' output. And I assume current delivery will be 'adequate'
Possibly class A too, but that's a guess. I hope they will be in the same sexy silver finish as my Mdac.
well yes - blame Tim!Ah Ah, so we'll now have a Q-DAC option (M-DAC + PSU + Stepped attenuator)... Brilliant!
I understand that the PSU has in effect two switchable analog inputs: a balanced one and an unbalanced one.
Matching casework (Footprint & Finish (Silver and Black) compatible) with the MDAC.
The power amplifiers are Stereo units but can be configured for "Bi-Amp" mode or Bridge mode - so you can start off with a single unit and upgrade later for more power or Bi-Amp.
They will be rated to about 120W per channel / 200W+ Bridged - with plenty of current!
The design topology is totally unique - I'll try and refrain from releasing more details until closer to the launch date
John
The Freq. variation is indicative of either poor on board clocking within the Sono's - but more likely its "Data Flow Control" as the Sono's is not the system "Clock master" - and its Clock frequency has to track the source clock - Hopefully the MDAC can attenuate the Jitter products. It's related to the Sono's design architecture and cannot be changed.
What do you use the Audiolab pre-amplifier for? You could connect the Audiolab to the AV pass input. The latest development of the PSU will also allow Gain control (volume control) option of the Analogue input(s).
I'll PM you the Java App.
John
Matching casework (Footprint & Finish (Silver and Black) compatible) with the MDAC.
The power amplifiers are Stereo units but can be configured for "Bi-Amp" mode or Bridge mode - so you can start off with a single unit and upgrade later for more power or Bi-Amp.
They will be rated to about 120W per channel / 200W+ Bridged - with plenty of current!
The design topology is totally unique - I'll try and refrain from releasing more details until closer to the launch date
John
If you are going to the trouble of reed relays for volume control, how much extra effort would be involved to provide, say, three independent analogue inputs and the ability (reed relays) to select between them?...I'll design it so the "Stepped attenuator cards" it can be retrofitted by owners at any-time
John - how is this physically possible?I'm beginning to wonder if the Ground is somehow missing from your MDAC's USB connection - well at least DC Ground
Hi Ben,
Pls. PM me your Email address and I'll forward the file,
John
John - how is this physically possible?
I'm beginning to wonder if the Ground is somehow missing from your MDAC's USB connection - well at least DC Ground - the USB "Shell" is AC coupled which could explain why it still "functions".
To "diagnose" this fault condition (without proper equipment) you could get a second USB lead - plug it into a spare USB port on your PC, and with the other end of the USB cable touch the metal "shell" of this leads USB connector onto one of the MDAC'S RCA audio output's "Ground" connection (The Audio "Ground" is the "Metal" body of the RCA connector).
Somehow keeping the metal ends touching together - tightly taped together maybe? (Metal of USB connector shell to the MDAC's RCA Audio Ground connection) - then flush your toilet (I'm guess your Log Cabin has one of those electric "Waste disposal" type toilets)!!! see if the MDAC drops out...
50:50 it could be the problem...
Did I just recommend someone to tape a USB connector to their MDAC? Pls. nobody read this...
It reads like blue Peter.... and here's one we did earlier... and now go and flush your toilet to test... Oh dear...Oh dear...Oh dear... can there be any greater shame...
John
Thanks John, I've PMed it to you.
I've just been experimenting too! I plugged the M-DAC into my 8000LX's power-in RCAs, but nothing came out. It must mean there's an internal mod needed as I suspected. On searching for this, your name came up on another thread! Can you remember what needed to be done? It does sound like it's not easily reversible though too? (Although, I guess I could just connect the pre outs to the power ins on the back to get the amp back to what it was).
Cheers,
Ben
Hmmmm, i did what you said John & tightly taped the metal connection of a USB cable to the metal part of my MDac's RCA output, plugged the other end of the USB cable into my PC, and then i couldn't get the USB connection to fail no matter what i did.
I tried everything that previously caused problems, CD player, old sub cranked to the top, hoover, even multiple toilet flushes lol!
In the past if the USB connection started behaving for a short while & i couldn't trip it up i'd check the USB buffer level & when i used any of the problematic appliances the buffer level would dramatically dip indicating there was still an underlying issue
Getting the USB buffer on the display now i can't get it to dip...
Then i tried the CD player one last time & guess what the USB connection went 'inactive'
BUT this time it didn't seize playback on the PC, every single time in the past when the USB connection seized, it made the media player playback on the PC seize aswell, like clockwork.
Same story with the hoover, it can trip up the USB at the MDac's end intermittently, even make it show as 'Ready' and the dB meter showing sound, but with no sound coming out the speakers.
So now it seems the USB connection on the MDac can still be affected but not playback on the PC.
Bare in mind this is very intermittent now, i can switch the CD player on/off 20 times & have it affect the USB connection maybe once.
Is it safe to leave this extra 'grounding' USB cable between the MDac & PC as it definitely seems to have made everything much more stable, if not then its a very very strong coincidence.
Also, any tips on securing the USB cable a bit better? ill at least switch to electrical tape