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MDAC first listen (part II)

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The CA 840a v1 I had use to crackle through the speakers when changing certain volume ranges. According to some bod at CA, it was fixed in v2.
 
Ok, i think im going to just float between the two options of using the integrated & MDac's preamp

I like using the MDac's wand for volume control as the 840a's remote is quite useless at times, and obviously there's the crackle using the 840a's preamp.

But im sure that with my 840a around 12 oclock on the volume ramp & the MDac at 0dB everything sounds at its very best
 
mcoteca said:
How about PSA for Power & Signal Adapter?
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I like that...Something along the lines of M-PSA makes sense (Power & Signal Appliance)...

  • Are those green buttons in the rendering LED indicators?

  • Hoping the unit is supplied with high quality (shielded OFC) mini-DIN lead cable.

  • Is one pair of RCA/XLR inputs on the PSU meant to used as a jumper(s) to the M-DAC?

  • In restrospect, might have preferred an IEC C18 inlet. Aside from DIY, there appears to be limited market availability for higher end IEC C7 power cords. However, it is very easy to find nicer IEC C17 power cords across multiple price ranges.

  • Definitely interested in the attenuator option as it should prove to be most useful with active monitors.

  • Would there be any improvement in quality outputting from the PSU as opposed to directly from the M-DAC?

  • M-Xtend I/II are my naming entries, follows the M convention set forth by the M-DAC. Though I certainly favor M-PSA...
 
JohnW said:
Hi Ben,

Only guessing here, but here goes:-

If you take a close look at this internal picture of a 8000LX:-

Just left of the Black heatsink you will see positions for "REAL" jumper links that are not fitted - I cannot read the PCB text, but I believe it indicates the position of links if / when they are fitted.

I'm guessing that first you have to remove the following "jumper links" which look like resistors, but I suspect are in-fact links (I've circled them in red):

Once you remove the "Links" I've highlighted in Red - you then might need to add new links indicated on the PCB in Yellow text just to the right of the removed links - between the heatsink.

If you could send a High Res picture of this area of the PCB (So I can read the text), then I can give you clearer modification details.

I've never seen a 8000LX, so just going on "designers" instinct.

John
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Hi John,

Many thanks, I'd stumbled on the same picture too!

It will be a while before I open mine, it's at the bottom of the rack - but I'll let you know when I do (won't be for a while though!). I can find lots of info about doing it to my 8000A (currently powering my rear speakers). Ultimately, I was going to bi-amp my speakers using my old 8000A and 8000LX - but the LX sounds much better, so didn't know which to use for the tweeters and the woofer! I guess if I did go down that route, the extra outputs on the PSU would facilitate this?

Any chance you could label the PSU's back panel or do a left to right, am a bit confused as to what each connection does.

Cheers,

Ben
 
desp_erado said:
Hi John,

Many thanks, I'd stumbled on the same picture too!

It will be a while before I open mine, it's at the bottom of the rack - but I'll let you know when I do (won't be for a while though!). I can find lots of info about doing it to my 8000A (currently powering my rear speakers). Ultimately, I was going to bi-amp my speakers using my old 8000A and 8000LX - but the LX sounds much better, so didn't know which to use for the tweeters and the woofer! I guess if I did go down that route, the extra outputs on the PSU would facilitate this?

Any chance you could label the PSU's back panel or do a left to right, am a bit confused as to what each connection does.

Cheers,

Ben
Click to expand...

Hi Ben,

OK, when you do get to your unit, just take a good (in Focus) picture of the PCB area around the 'Links" and I'lI forward instructions,

The rear panel of the M-PAI (M-Power & Analogue Interface)??? is still subject to change as the design is refined... So I'll post a "Production" rear panel once its confirmed.

OK, I think I'm settling on calling the HQ PSU "M-PAX" - Power & Analogue eXtender

John
 
adamlau said:
  • Are those green buttons in the rendering LED indicators?
Click to expand...

No, they are two 3.5mm 12V trigger outputs and One Trigger input (From the Analogue / AV system if needed)

adamlau said:
  • Is one pair of RCA/XLR inputs on the PSU meant to used as a jumper(s) to the M-DAC?
Click to expand...

Yes :)

adamlau said:
  • In restrospect, might have preferred an IEC C18 inlet. Aside from DIY, there appears to be limited market availability for higher end IEC C7 power cords. However, it is very easy to find nicer IEC C17 power cords across multiple price ranges.
Click to expand...

Sadly, so space on the rear panel for a IEC Inlet, being a low current device, I see no issue with the C7 (Figure 8) power lead accept its perceived quality.

adamlau said:
  • Would there be any improvement in quality outputting from the PSU as opposed to directly from the M-DAC?
Click to expand...

Hopefully there will be little to no difference - however the M-PAX (Power / Analogue eXtender)? offers the option of Stepped attenuation (-10dB, -20dB, -30dB & -40dB)... with or without buffering so many options to experiment with.

John
 
JohnW said:
Hi Ben,

OK, when you do get to your unit, just take a good (in Focus) picture of the PCB area around the 'Links" and I'lI forward instructions,

The rear panel of the M-PAI (M-Power & Analogue Interface)??? is still subject to change as the design is refined... So I'll post a "Production" rear panel once its confirmed.

OK, I think I'm settling on calling the HQ PSU "M-PAX" - Power & Analogue eXtender

John
Click to expand...

Thanks John. If you could send me that bitperfect file when you get chance too, that would be great ;-)

My fav of the names so far is definitely M-PAX.
 
JohnW said:
Happy new year - by the way I HATE YOU!!!
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Charming ! :D:D

So I'm laying in bed thinking about your PFM post (sad indeed)...
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Hey, that's actually a step forward. I think the last time this happened you were in the bath! You really do take your work everywhere, don't you. Here's hoping I never catch you on the toilet ;)

we now will offer the option of adding a "Step-attenuator" option to the "HQ PSU" allowing "Volume control" of the analogue input(s)
Click to expand...
Thanks John, fantastic news and honestly not what I was expecting. Please add me to the pre-orders for all the above.

and while we are at it, we can also blame Tim for the SBT Clock Lock updates - BLAME Tim!!!
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Erm.... maybe (sorry). By the way, have you had it up and running yet? Any noticable difference?

Tim - your SBT is no longer in the best of shape - so I bought a new replacement unit for you...
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That's very kind of you John, but how bad can it be? I'm almost tempted to ask for it back just as a show-piece / talking point:)
How would you define "no longer in the best of shape" ?

- Tim
 
John were you involved with the design of the other DAC's Audiolab are offering, I can't remember the discussions ? As what your offering with this M-PAX makes the DQ redundant ? What I do remember is the cost of the DQ is £899 and that it did not offer the CROSS output stage and was therefore not as good sound quality wise. I can see this hitting the DQ sales wise quite badly.

Have you thought about marketing these new products and enhancements as a "signature" type label similar to other third party branding of known audio products ?.
 
JohnW said:
Tim,
I can see the real need for the "Highest quality" Analogue path for systems with Turntables etc - the only real HQ way to design a fully balanced attenuator is using "Stepped" relays... I hate relays because relays cause trouble.... But then we could use the much more expensive "Reed" relays (as we are direct selling - component pricing does not impact end retail price as much)....
John
Click to expand...

If theres room for the stepped attenuator, would there be room for an ADC card? And would there be room for digital domain RIAA (etc) correction. If so, you'd not need the horrors of analogue attenuation. We could then digitise our "legacy" inputs... If anyone can do it, you could?
 
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