YawnWhat's it worth not working ?
What's it worth if the makers won't touch it ?
What's if worth if the makers won't give any data ?
Nice ornament .
YawnWhat's it worth not working ?
What's it worth if the makers won't touch it ?
What's if worth if the makers won't give any data ?
Nice ornament .
Oh and no, if any part of my formerly many £k kit is to be replaced it will NEVER be with ANY new LINN kit even IF I won the lottery
Yay , Well said Tony , With you all the way on that one .I fully understand your anger. In today’s environment of impending climate collapse anything as fundamentally simple as a hi-fi amplifier that can’t be repaired pretty much indefinitely is an irresponsible piece of shit IMHO. Just avoid it. There are far better options.
I find real enjoyment in bringing classic audio back into use. This is what folk should do IMO. So much choice out there of highly respected kit with circuit diagrams and service data in the public domain. Most can be kept running for the price of a handful of electrolytic capacitors every 20 years or so. It is painful enough seeing computers, smartphones etc hit landfill due to lack of serviceability and obsolescence, there is zero excuse for an amplifier to end up there.
I have more macs than I know what to do with, I keep them running.I fully understand your anger. In today’s environment of impending climate collapse anything as fundamentally simple as a hi-fi amplifier that can’t be repaired pretty much indefinitely is an irresponsible piece of shit IMHO. Just avoid it. There are far better options.
I find real enjoyment in bringing classic audio back into use. This is what folk should do IMO. So much choice out there of highly respected kit with circuit diagrams and service data in the public domain. Most can be kept running for the price of a handful of electrolytic capacitors every 20 years or so. It is painful enough seeing computers, smartphones etc hit landfill due to lack of serviceability and obsolescence, there is zero excuse for an amplifier to end up there.
I was told by Linn that 5103's are door stops that just don't know they are dead. Same with DS and soon to be joined by Akurat.Your lucky that you don't own a CD12. Many Pi**ed off people, good for doorstops.
Best turntable I have even (not heard) Nottingham Analoge Spacedeck, on a granite block on my hearth, Space arm, either AT OC9 or Denon 110.talking of old computers, mine is a defo 'Triggers brush'. 4 or 5 replaced mother boards, 3 power supplies, 4 or 5 'Audiophile' bidirectional audio boards, video board and five hard discs (now being replaced with SSD's) and numerous keyboards. Running the latest Ubuntu software, beautifully. But my hifi kit has been running 13+ years, pain-free (no Linn stuff, except two arms and a cartridge body (to be fair the arms are Jelco and the cartridge Audio Technica).
So, you're saying that every electrical failure in a piece of audio equipment is immediately obvious on opening the lid?If you can't see a bulging cap, a cooked off resistor or know how to check values on a mosfet carry on buying your £100 boom box form tesco
I don't much care. They are analogies. Anyone can pick holes in analogies.So I don't accept your analogies.
Yes, I am pretty mechanically minded, actually, and all of those checks are blindingly obvious things that one checks on a regular basis. However, lifting the bonnet and peering under it really didn't work when the problem turned out to be worn friction linings in my gearbox or a short-circuited alternator. For those you either need someone who knows the internals in-depth, or the right test gear - just like when hi-fi stops working.Clearly not mechanically minded are you.
Weekly checks of: radiator caps (looking for emulsion deposits), corrosion of battery terminals, tension of belts, oil level, oil pressure, tyre pressures and condition (side walls, tread depth, carcass damage), water levels (washer/cooling), brake fluid/ power steering fluid levels, rust and if you have a brain, play in wheel bearings, wiper blades, lights etc etc
But then again, those of us who do want to live a bit longer or not kill someone. Those who don't break down in new and old vehicles and sometimes die for their troubles. I used to deal with and pick the bodies out of wrecks.
Construction and Use regulations exist because every item listed is listed because 'broken and warn' kit HAS killed people.
Even a simple wiper blade and indicator bulb
How on earth do you get so many failures? It can't be 30 years old! Even if those things failed every 5 years it would still take 20+ years to get there. My PC is 13 years old. OK, it's now getting creaky, but it's all original.talking of old computers, mine is a defo 'Triggers brush'. 4 or 5 replaced mother boards, 3 power supplies, 4 or 5 'Audiophile' bidirectional audio boards, video board and five hard discs (now being replaced with SSD's) and numerous keyboards. Running the latest Ubuntu software, beautifully. But my hifi kit has been running 13+ years, pain-free (no Linn stuff, except two arms and a cartridge body (to be fair the arms are Jelco and the cartridge Audio Technica).
Very much like my failed crankshaft pulley. You don't get a warning, and no amount of inspection short of spending 2 hours dismantling it to examine the individual components will tell you that it's about to fail. The belt looks as new, there were no noises, it ran perfectly. Then I pulled into the services and turned it off, when I resterted the heavy load of power steering plus alternator plus water pump just tore it apart. It's in 2 bits, both halves look totally normal but the central rubber damper has just been torn apart. You cant see this until it fails.Yes, I am pretty mechanically minded, actually, and all of those checks are blindingly obvious things that one checks on a regular basis. However, lifting the bonnet and peering under it really didn't work when the problem turned out to be worn friction linings in my gearbox or a short-circuited alternator. For those you either need someone who knows the internals in-depth, or the right test gear - just like when hi-fi stops working.
Hence my point that peering under a car bonnet or under the lid of a piece of hi-fi equipment might tell you a certain amount, but the issues aren't always blindingly obvious, even if there are certain people who think that changing capacitors solves everything.
I can see both sides of this but what do we expect the life cycle of a product to be?
You’ve hit the nail on the head, companies can’t make money out of people like you. There has to be a degree of obsolescence. Linn are different company to what they were but they still support products above the average I’d say.I wouldn't but Linn electronics, just wouldn't. Their attitude to long term servicing has been well known for decades, they were like this thirty years ago, so what can you say? It's like buying a Bugatti then complaining the servicing is expensive.
This is just the model they want to persue. Buy new product rather than fixing old ones. Not something I want to support so I try to buy things that can be fixed. My amps are forty years old, have been serviced twice and still sound good. Wouldn't buy any of Naim's new unfixable kit either, they can piss off too.
I think we have to accept that point to point wiring is not coming back. The Leak gear is great but not everyone wants valves, what if you need more power?For something as fundamentally simple and old-technology as a hi-fi amp I feel it should be serviceable indefinitely. I have a pair of Leak TL-12 Plus valve amps in one system that date from around 1957-8, they sound better than most things on the market today, and they are simple enough I restored them myself.
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Yes, I replaced every resistor and capacitor, and also found a nice set of valves (some small signal valves are original to the amps, they last for ages). They are not doing badly for an amp that is heading towards 70 years old. With this rebuild they are good for at least another 20. No reason they can’t make it over a century. Just an amp, nothing complex here.
In my other systems I use Quad 303s, both fairly early ones from the late-60s, and another amp that came with a full schematic enclosed in the user manual. Solid, reliable, fixable. Same story. They will just keep on going if serviced every 20 years or so. No built in obsolescence. No firmware lock-in. No manufacturer-dictated closed-shop service network. No enforced leasing model.
You can change capacitors, lasers and belts … not necessarily user serviceable but then I pay other people to service my car.So how exactly do you change the oil on a Karik or Kairn?
I have had both apart and I couldn’t find the sump.
silly me….
I have no idea how long a streamer could last but it’s a legitimate product that there is demand for.