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kitchen extractor fan/boiler flue question for architects and heating engineers

roman

pfm Member
I'm upgrading my kitchen extraction from circulating through a filter to ducting to the outside. My issue is the proximity of the exit point of the extractor to the existing combi boiler flue.

It will sit about 300 mm directly above the flue. I have looked at the regs and as far as I can tell 300 mm is fine if off to either side but I think siting the ducting exit point above or below a flue requires a greater separation (600mm or even 1200mm). Can anyone confirm as I obviously I need to avoid any fumes coming back into the kitchen.

I should add that the extractor hood will have 150mm round ducting going vertically for approx 1 metre, converting to 220mm x 90mm flat ducting horizontally for 2 m until it reaches the wall at which point I can convert back to 150mm round to exit through the wall, or more likely continue the flat duct through the wall and terminating in a grill outside.

I have a jointing piece with a 'damper', a hinged plastic flap intended to prevent cold air coming into the house, which will be fitted along the 2 m flat run. There is a possibility of a vent grill with another damper on the outside. These dampers are very simple affairs, not completely airtight and in any case could potentially jam in an open position so cannot be counted on to prevent gasses reentering the property.

As it stands I'm looking at a rather eccentric solution involving two 90 deg elbows on the flat ducting outside to snake away and to the side of the flu. I think it'll work but look awful.

The alternative might be to mess about with the boiler flue. Its an old vaillant turbo max VUW 242/2.5. At present the flue comes out of the top of the boiler and immediately turns to the side and out through the wall. Is there a clever way of adding some elbows and turning it into a vertical flue or turning it to the side of its current position?

I've been in touch with vaillant tech support who were well meaning but vague. Of course I want to do this safely and thought I'd pick some brains on here first.
 
For extra protection put a gravity flap on the exit and you should be fine.

You've just reminded me that i need to do that, gravity flap is still a carrier bag with a stick in the bottom.
 
Hi Roman.

300mm minimum when the flue is situated below a openable window or other opening to the bulding (air bricks/vents).
Otherwise it will be fine and be fully compliant - forget about touching the flue.

Regards
Dave.
 
Make sure that any horizontal run of duct gently runs downhill to the grille as condensation (oil and water) will run back into the fan. For similar reason, avoid or seal extremely well any joins in a long run. Cooking oil "varnish" will also jam the paddle valve after not so long.

Long runs of extract ducting are a serious PITA, especially for low flow installations such as cooker extracts (which sound like a gale, but shift rather little air). Personally, I'd never site a cooker on anything but an outside wall unless I didn't have an outside wall in the kitchen.
 
Standard kitchen extract fans (not hoods) all seem to be the same flow rate to meet building regs (30l/60l) but they all seem weak as piss to me, nobody makes a standard 6" kitchen fan with a bit more flow (or at least I can't easily find one) the next step up seems to be a proper 3 speed Vent Axia but they're about £400, minus the controller!
 
You should be mindful of the fire risk associated with kitchen extract systems. Dweezils above, timber and oil’s. A commercial system requires regular cleaning and maintenance to prevent fire.

Good luck stay safe.
 
ah Roman
similar to the problem i have !!!
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/thr...onto-your-property.248529/page-2#post-4179572

P1070371 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/158267783@N02/, on Flickr

the neighbours have put their flue about 34cm away from our border so on saturday in the garden i was breathing in their fumes . apparently some boilers like worcester bosch can go 300 mm from border but others have to more. anyway after chatting to some helpful folks on here and further thought i have sent pics to the Gas safe HQ for them to look at and possibly investigate
 
Make sure that any horizontal run of duct gently runs downhill to the grille as condensation (oil and water) will run back into the fan. For similar reason, avoid or seal extremely well any joins in a long run. Cooking oil "varnish" will also jam the paddle valve after not so long.

Long runs of extract ducting are a serious PITA, especially for low flow installations such as cooker extracts (which sound like a gale, but shift rather little air). Personally, I'd never site a cooker on anything but an outside wall unless I didn't have an outside wall in the kitchen.

The previous owners had vented our cooker hood into the garage - not only likely to grease the car but I suspect a bit of a fire hazard.
Cooker is about 10 feet from an outside wall and I didn't fancy a 10 foot duct, even if that worked.
In the end had to settle for a non-vented carbon filter hood which not only sounds like an express train but as Vinny says, doesn't actually move much air, nor in our case does it actually remove much steam/fumes/grease.
 
Ours is a 9" Expelair into plywood ducting. It all looks rather greasy but certainly shifts the air.

It's an external solid wall though and I'd rather not go to the hassle of knocking out to a 9" hole, surely someone does a decent 6" fan? The standard ones are only 20-25w ish, hardly taxing.
 
It's an external solid wall though and I'd rather not go to the hassle of knocking out to a 9" hole, surely someone does a decent 6" fan? The standard ones are only 20-25w ish, hardly taxing.

There are LOADS available, but not designed to cope with fat and water vapour. There are endless fans designed for cooling electronics, some very deep/thick, but only 150mm square that shift plenty of air, and far more reliable than the huge majority of ones designed for ventilation of kitchens/bathrooms.
As for power and capacity - I suspect that extract fans are in the same boat as vacuum cleaners were until the law changed - power consumed being largely unrelated to what effect they achieve.
Lunatic cheap for the technology and build quality too. Maybe worth a go for about £20-30??????
 
We've got a cheap one in the bathroom, fitted by builders as part of an insurance claim.

It can't blow into a weak wind and the non return is useless making the bathroom freezing in winter so now modifies with a good covering of Agritape.
 
There are LOADS available, but not designed to cope with fat and water vapour. There are endless fans designed for cooling electronics, some very deep/thick, but only 150mm square that shift plenty of air, and far more reliable than the huge majority of ones designed for ventilation of kitchens/bathrooms.
As for power and capacity - I suspect that extract fans are in the same boat as vacuum cleaners were until the law changed - power consumed being largely unrelated to what effect they achieve.
Lunatic cheap for the technology and build quality too. Maybe worth a go for about £20-30??????

The only cheap ones of those I can find barely have more airflow than a bog standard kitchen/bathroom fan though, to get a decent upgrade you're into the £75 and up, at which point it becomes within price range of fitting a 9" extract fan with double the airflow.

I may just fit her a bigger fan anyway, it's not a massive job.
 
The only cheap ones of those I can find barely have more airflow than a bog standard kitchen/bathroom fan though, to get a decent upgrade you're into the £75 and up, at which point it becomes within price range of fitting a 9" extract fan with double the airflow.

I may just fit her a bigger fan anyway, it's not a massive job.

Have a hunt.

RS are FAR from cheap, but I have just checked 140-170mm square and at £30 and up (+VAT), they have units that do over 300 cubic meteres per hour - that is over 5000 litres per minute.

To use two cheaper lower flow fans in parallel, would need some kind of adapter plate, which should be easy enough to make from alli or galvanised plate.
 
We've got a cheap one in the bathroom, fitted by builders as part of an insurance claim.

It can't blow into a weak wind and the non return is useless making the bathroom freezing in winter so now modifies with a good covering of Agritape.
I had similar in a house I rented a few years ago. When I climbed up to inspect it I could see all the way through and up the street, so for 9 months of the year it had a sheet of card taped over it.
 
ah Roman
similar to the problem i have !!!
https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/thr...onto-your-property.248529/page-2#post-4179572

P1070371 by , on Flickr

the neighbours have put their flue about 34cm away from our border so on saturday in the garden i was breathing in their fumes . apparently some boilers like worcester bosch can go 300 mm from border but others have to more. anyway after chatting to some helpful folks on here and further thought i have sent pics to the Gas safe HQ for them to look at and possibly investigate

That looks like a Worchester flue mate pity cause if it were another manufacturer’s flue then the warranty would be invalid.

Too much white showing some boiler manufacturer’s won’t allow any white showing at all.

OP you need to refer the the boiler manufacturer’s installation instructions for your boiler ref the fan.
 
The only cheap ones of those I can find barely have more airflow than a bog standard kitchen/bathroom fan though, to get a decent upgrade you're into the £75 and up, at which point it becomes within price range of fitting a 9" extract fan with double the airflow.

I may just fit her a bigger fan anyway, it's not a massive job.

I installed a high quality fan for our kitchen when it was installed, 150mm, total waste of money.

I ended up fitting a Baumatic hood with a six inch fan that lasted until last month (10 years) when I checked it the fan was full of grease so replaced it with a similar one from Amazon for about £70. The Baumatic fan assembly was and is still available at about £80 but the hood internally was also full of grease and gunk.
 


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