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Isopropanol for cleaning circuit boards.

mega lord said:
Also i don't think it is safe to use on polystyrene caps.

Stu
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Something l'll bear in mind. Thanks Stu.

Capacitance as a result of leaving solder flux on a pcb has never been an issue for me before. I can understand cleaning boards for presentation though but that's an interesting point nonetheless Keith.
 
I seem to remember LesW saying on PFM that he dunks his boards into something akin to diluted washing up liquid. Then he touches up with an electric toothbrush.

What do folks think of a bath in a sonicator with water and washing up liquid?
 
I've read elsewhere that anything with water is a bad idea, I'd certainly not want to immerse components. Isopropyl is good as it evaporates away fast.
 
Alcohol will clean-off flux but do it topically , say with Q-tips to treat the problem area.
Washing/brushing in clean water is benign (use de-ionised or RO, if paranoid)

if you want to use alcohol, do it after the water wash - because being anhydrous the isopropyl will hoover the excess water right up (useful on old SRBP / paxolin boards)

But yes - keep alcohol away from polystyrene (it's a poor solvent for PS, but will do it no favours)
 
Sounds like a plan, Martin. What do you think about the sonicator? (I also have a vague memory of claims by a sonicator manufacturer that it can be used for circuit boards.)
 
Why not just put 'em in a small tray with just enough alcohol to come up to the PCB ? Leaves a nice even 'varnished' finish and I've never found it to damage components. IIRC the bottoms of film caps are usually sealed with epoxy resin, which resists almost any solvent except possibly nitric acid.

If you used vodka you could drink it afterwards ...
 
Acetone is the best for cleaning new soldered connections when using rosin fluxes. Cotton wool buds are used. Unfortunately it is not readily available in UK shops. French DIY shops sell it. Beware more highly flammable than isopropanol. Beware of it on some plastics but ok on pcbs.
 
Acetone is easily available as 'Nail Varnish Remover' but I would be very careful using it anywhere near my posh kit. It will easily strip gloss paint which has hardened for years, and will readily dissolve many plastics, quite possibly including the plastic which is used in the 'stalks' of cotton buds.

Proceed with caution.

Also, re: Isopropyl Alcohol. I've always considered it a relatively innocuous fluid, but when I decided to use it to remove greasy fingermarks from a Mk1 Lingo, to my horror, it started taking off the white lettering. I'm not sure whether to blame the isopropyl or Linn. OK, it was Linn's fault. :)

Mull
 
actetone for tape rollers/not bearing iso for daily wiping tape heads auto metal polish every few months for tape heads
 
My method is nowadays plain denatured ethanol (before propanol) and a stiff toothbrush and rinsing i water. After that some "Yes" washing-up liquid and rinse with water. Sometimes I do it twice if needed.
 
Tony L said:
I've read elsewhere that anything with water is a bad idea, I'd certainly not want to immerse components. Isopropyl is good as it evaporates away fast.
Click to expand...
You have to check first if all parts withstand cleaning. Untight relays could be a problem. Most modern parts, especially for surface mounting can withstand cleaning.
 
I don't think there's anything on a built up NCC200 that will be affected by rinsing with water. I haven't had time to attempt cleaning the boards yet but hopefully I'll be able to have a go next week.
 
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