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Howto: TeddyCap

Unlike the smoothing capacitors before the TeddyRegs, the Tantalum and Ceramic capacitors in the TeddyReg make a difference. For the Tantalum use a good quality capacitor from a well known company. Kemet and AVX are good examples.

Teddy
 
Thanks Teddy, I have used Kemet tants on the regulator, which seems to be working on bread board. I have just recieved the small 9 pin x 9 pin boards from ebay and will build up soon.
I joined pfm to late to join the group buy, hmm.. story of my life.
I will endevour to put the whole lot into a flatcap2 but have not yet taken the lid off, so it just an assumption it will all fit.
As an aside, in your opinion would the PowerReg be suitable for the motor supply on a DC gyrodec, I assume the TeddyReg would not supply the required current.
Many thanks for a great idea.
Tony
________
Heat gun vaporizor
 
Bemused said:
...I joined pfm to late to join the group buy, hmm.. story of my life. ...the PowerReg be suitable for the motor supply on a DC gyrodec, I assume the...
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Hi Tony,

No TeddyRegs left, but I do still have a handful of PowerReg boards if you need some - email me at neiljadman (at) comcast (dot) net

Neil
 
Quick question from me using this RC filter to supply teddyreg's; I'll be mounting transformers/rectifiers/smoothing in a separate case to supply Naim MC cards mounted in my (non-Naim) pre-amp via an umbilical. I assume I am better off mounting the last resistor and cap of this chain in the pre-amp, with the first 2 in transformer case?

Thanks, Richard
 
If I'm using a 30V wall-wart-type printer SMPS to feed my TeddyRegs, is there much point using an RCRCRC before them? Any suitable alternatives?
 
Dunno if the following suggestions have already been mentioned in this or other threads (apologies in advance for any redundancies):

I also place two low-value R’s between the trans. secondaries and rect. bridge input (the same TeddyCap 0.47R 1W’s will work fine here). I've heard these being referred to as "damping resistors".

Finally, I use snubbers across the same trans. secondary leads ( a snubber in this appl. is an R + C). You may have to tweak the values per the Jim Haggerman paper (Google "Calculating Optimum Snubbers"). However, 100R and 0.1uF are decent starting values.
 
Thanks - Martin suggested something similar for my Flea raw DC (which will sit in the same casework as the above 2 transformers), but 10 ohms in series on both the leads between the rectifier and smoothing cap, mainly because I had so much voltage overhead.

I cannot honestly remember what secondary voltage the transformers for the teddyregs are - I bought them around 2 years ago now. Will wire up soon to test.

Did you ever test with and without damping and snubbers?

Richard
 
Dowser said:
Did you ever test with and without damping and snubbers?
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Only subjective audio evals and some objective testing with a DMM (using mV AC to measure ripple -- this kind of "test" will only go so far). My O'Scope is on the blink, but if/when I get it running, I'll try to conduct some more tests.

On the topic of damping R's and snubbers ... I became aware of these tweaks on diyaudio.com and diyhifi.org, so folks may want to check there for more details.

Anyway, about the before/after ... no dramatic changes, but ones certainly worth keeping!
 
My little system of Gyrodec, Stageline, Nac112, Nap150, FC2X and Thiels stood for many years with a CD5 as this years upgrade to digital.
The CD5 just did not cut the mustard, but was just manageable when flatcapped. As I only had one FC2 this meant that either the Stageline or CD5 was always going cold and I had to replug all the time.
That?s about when I found pfm and you guys. This place has been inspirational.
I have learned from all in one way or another. There are clearly some very talented and professional electronics engineers (audio?) and also quite a few plonkers like myself and every were between. I have enjoyed and benefited from all.
I now have three Teddycaps on the system and a fourth doing duty as my turntable supply, eventual sorting my NhMI battery charger and running mains free for the turntable. I am sure the TeddyCap may be bettered in the TT application but it is a significant gain on the standard LM317 Michell offering, and many weeks getting it right have been good experience, better than a Nintendo brain trainer for sure!
The many trials to the Gyro supply showed me the way to prototyping with breadboard cause I eventually killed my TeddyReg pcb, but the Gyro supply is now on pcb, boxed and looking good on my rack.
The three remaining TeddyCaps are still on breadboard so I expect there will be further gains when its all implemented properly but for now there are to many capacitor changes going on. The Stageline still requires lifting a touch and the CD5 is still just to much in my face so I am looking to voice all three TeddyCaps differently by playing with output capacitors. Work has stopped at the moment as replacement tweeters are on the way and will require a good running in. Tiny fingers were let loose and thought my metal domes were buttons for pressing in.

However that?s my story so far, the improvement in sound has been outstanding, and I am not going to try to explain in what way it?s improved because you all know other than to say it is SUBSTANTIAL.

I am a very happy bunny and so here a big thank you to everyone who has made this possible, in particular Martin, Teddy, Flatpopely, Zener, Flashgo, Neil and all who have taken time and trouble to help. And of course TonyL who seems to make it all possible.

Gentlemen of pfm please take a bow.
________
Grizzly 600
 
Its a great place. I have a pre and power amp sound that I could not afford to buy new. PFM has enabled me to DIY an equivalent.
Glad I could help, albeit in a small way.

Andrew
 
I concur - I found it hard to believe the level of knowledge that was being shared on this site when I first arrived. It has given me better sound and saved me a shed load of money, thank you all. And it's not over yet :)

Richard
 
jamadlavy said:
I started with inductors because I was following the concept used in avondale's cap6 but after teddys comments above, I also tried using 0.47R resistors instead.

My findings are that I prefer inductors.

<snip>

Eric
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Hi Eric,
Any specifictions on the inductors you used? Supplier, part number, etc. if possible?
Many thanks,
Steve
 
Hi Steve

I made my own inductors by winding about 6 ft of 20 AWG wire on a 5/16" rod. The coil consists 3 layers roughly 3/4" in length.

Inserting the 5/16" rod in a variable speed drill makes this quite easy. Wind a first layer 3/4" in length, then wind a second layer on top of the first (with the drill rotating in the same direction as before) and then a final layer (still keeping the drill rotating the same direction). Slide everything off the rod, apply a bit of shrink tubing to hold it together and voila.

bit of advice: since the sliding part of the operation is a bit difficult (the winding is usually quite tight), work on the end of the rod to minimise travel.

Answering this question made me realise I should try the RCRCRC again, My system has evolved so much since then that maybe I'd get different results ?? I'll post my findings later.

Eric
 
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