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Heybrook HB3 originals

only 2ft x 1ft? had thought they were much bigger beasties- in that case try finding some HBS2 stands: superb, made for the hb1. you'd be hard-pressed to find any better 4 pillar type ones made now.

according the World Designs Forum, & dunno if mentioned on this thread, drop-in mid replacements are 'MCA11FC'.. which make not sure, seas or vifa prob. also they were designed to go slap against a rear wall- ideal for me, sizewise too.

yeah keep an ear peeled for me re any hb3's- thx!
 
According to Wilmslow MCA11FC are no longer available, which is a shame-I'l just have to try and get these repaired when they finally quit.

Size wise they are a fantastic 'bang for buck', although even they are too big for my girlfriend, who tried to suggest that they'd have to go... Pigs will be taking off from City Airport first! Besides they are too heavy for her to carry, being about 20kg each.

How close do you reckon they should be to the wall? At the mo they are just a couple of inches away.

Next stop is the veneer shop, to tart them up a bit. Will post em up again when they're done.
 
mozza said:
How close do you reckon they should be to the wall? At the mo they are just a couple of inches away.
QUOTE]

They were designed to be close to the rear wall. I currently have mine about 5 inches away, but it depends on your room and the proximity of side walls. In other rooms over the last (gulp) 27 years I have had them both further out and closer to the rear wall. Let your ears decide.
Click to expand...
 
Captain, if you're anywhere near London and want to try these out you are very welcome. I'm in Dulwich.

Steve
 
thx mozza, Im not so near but occasionally in London- I must say Im eager to hear these with a 72/psu/140 (basically my amps) so may pm you, godknows when tho!

cheers, happy listening- capt
 
Im resurrecting the thread..

I can vouch for these HB3's: Ive just obtained a pair (no 6 pair of spkrs now.. thanks indeed to mwain there!)- they are mighty good speakers indeed.

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I just spent a good while repairing one very shot mid driver- it was squashed & ripped/ very trashed really..

Picture316.jpg


I removed the cone right off, cleaned the rotting gubbins off both it & driver basket then mading sure voicecoil alu whatnot was centered, I reset the cone, as best I could- not half bad actually.. I always knew Uhu would be useful for s'thing..

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and it works! I may even leave as is/ very tiny difference in sound between spkrs tbh. Im dead chuffed me :).
 
Well, I must have a refoam really so bought a std single 4" refoam kit from Speakerworks.com (£8 posted from US, seems damn good): anyone know if it'll suffice, ie not being a match to other?

Q to mozza here re tweeters: the sound is lacking a bit due to the nasty placcy domed 19mm tweets (seem a bit 'cheap' for flagship speakers- v odd). Now, looking at the vifa D19 TD 05 08 it seems they're placcy domed too.. Im confused. I defo want to replace with silk domed, nothing less. Any ideas mozza/ anyone?

cheers capt
 
aha.. right then I'll inquire at Wilmslow re anything else to pop in there. Im thinking maybe the morel m30, like mikesnowden and his tdl rtl2's, but with the mid it might get complicated.
 
I had some of those in the early eighties which I used with a LP12 42 snaps 110.
I thought they were pretty good, and still used then for a few months when I upgraded later to a 32.5 Hicap 250. Although when I bought some Saras it all started to sing in a way that it didn't before.

I bought some of the later braced stands from someone that were much more rigid. But I kept the old ones like the one's in the picture and used them later with a budget Quad 33 303 Fm3 I put together with some Kef 103's. I braced the stands with two pieces of copper tubing at the front. Just wedged with the use of a jack and held tight by the spring action of the stands, and that made them as rigid as the later stands.
 
I must say sara's are less my cuppa tea, but my ears aint yrs!

fwiw Wilmslow have/recommended the Morel CAT 298 tweeter, as a direct drop-in too. At £38 each not a cheap upgrade, but as I like Morel's alot I'll buy a couple soon.
 
There wasn't much choice in tweets back when the HB3's were made, although I guess Peter could have sprung for a Hiq or Scan, but that would have upped the price considerably.

Why the CAT298? It won't fit, for a start, as it's a 104mm plate, whereas your Seas tweeters are 94mm. That's because they are a 19mm dome, and the Morel is a 25mm dome. Vifa's XT19TD ring radiator is an excellent little tweeter, and shares the same 94mm faceplate as the originals. US$40 from Madisound.
 
CAT298 because as I said as Wilmslow recommended it/have as a drop in replacement (the 94mm version, not 104mm that wouldn't fit). As they're a speaker specialist they should know best/ accurately, & not just sell me anything vague to just whack in there.

I hope..
 
If anyone can help..

where is the x-over in these? how the dickens do i get to it- dug out the drivers but not in obvious places.. or if anyone knows what cap types in there polyp's or 'lytics?

also which way round ie l & r are these meant to stand? like in my pic above, or mid/tweets nearest one another..

thanks, capt
 
It's right up the top of the cabinet. Weird place for it, I know. Probably wanted to get it as far from the woofer as poss.

I think the caps are Alcaps, or at least some are. Peter C used a cocktail of caps at that time, certainly in the HB2's.

Tweets inboard.
 
Hi Captain, glad you're restoring these grand speakers. I have a pair of series 2s and mine have a panel on the rear of the speaker that holds the terminals. The xover is mounted to it on the interior side. The caps in my xovers are all plastic film types.

I use mine with the mids and tweets to the inside (they are inverted on the S2, like old Missions). I haven't experimented with this aspect of positioning so I don't know about any sound differences, I just prefer the look. Try it and see.

I used mine on a concrete hearth for several months where they sounded superb but were too close together and in an inconvenient location. Yesterday I moved them onto a too-bouncy suspended wooden floor and immediately noticed a general deterioration in sound, so I'm going to try to brace the floor joists and maybe rest the stands on concrete pavers. My stands are shaped like an H on its side rather than the C-shape of yours, so while they aren't ideal I'm less concerned with their rigidity. Originally they had castors!

Edit: I see RustyB has got the inside knowledge on yours, cheers.
 
AFAICR the board was screwed to either the top of the rear panel or the top panel.

If you take all the stuffing out and invert the box, you should be able to see it.
 
thanks Rusty, I think i'll leave alone then- i just know if i prize the thing off ill never get it on again..

an aside, if I may RustyB: are you dead sure that 19 TFF1 (H0737 its also referred as) is a direct drop-in, soundwise/ techy numberwise? from your informative posts I assume so.. just wanna 2x check before I spend £50+ you see. Hopefully they are, & be a bit more detailed too.

cheers capt
 
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