hackernap advice thread
- Thread starter Lucaslucas
- Start date
chiily
PFM Special Builder
sam_cat
C'est Crounchifique!
It does sound a bit hard and in your face to start with... Give it a few weeks with regular listening and dont be afraid of turning the wick up, all helps it settle... 
And well done on the build, but its not strictly dual mono is it? I always thought you had to have 2 transformers etc.. only thing shared should be the power inlet and switches etc.
Either way, good job!
And well done on the build, but its not strictly dual mono is it? I always thought you had to have 2 transformers etc.. only thing shared should be the power inlet and switches etc.
Either way, good job!
chiily
PFM Special Builder
Great build, looks great.
I have a pair of Voyagers (which do sound superb) and a pair of HackerNap PCBs in a draw; I'm in two minds whether to build the PCBs. So, I'd be really interested in your thoughts once you have the Voyagers built.
Good job, it will run in - mine did. I use Mundorf Supremes for the input, my favourite after trying several types, they are rather big though
HackerNAP power amp by mrphil42, on Flickr
HackerNAP power amp by mrphil42, on Flickr
Sam
Well, I dont know about dual mono.
It has 4 seperate windings, admittedly in one transformer!
In which case its not exactly sharing power supplies either!
Anyhow it sounds splendid!
Geoff, thanks for your comments regards Wima MKP4 / 10. This is how my mind is going, though I am also wondering about AVX FFB, because it would fit on the board.
Mr Phil, I think my box is too small for two Mundorf Supremes, but I could fit MCaps (MKP), which would be a cheaper option. I think they are similar, but not quite as refined. Oh well it seems like cap rolling is the order of the day. Your comments are appreciated.
Dave
Well, I dont know about dual mono.
It has 4 seperate windings, admittedly in one transformer!
In which case its not exactly sharing power supplies either!
Anyhow it sounds splendid!
Geoff, thanks for your comments regards Wima MKP4 / 10. This is how my mind is going, though I am also wondering about AVX FFB, because it would fit on the board.
Mr Phil, I think my box is too small for two Mundorf Supremes, but I could fit MCaps (MKP), which would be a cheaper option. I think they are similar, but not quite as refined. Oh well it seems like cap rolling is the order of the day. Your comments are appreciated.
Dave
Well you asked!
I enclose a few pictures of my effort.
All fitted in a 280 deep, all alloy 2U Hi Fi 2000 box.
Lovely job Dave. I'm amazed you got it all in there.
My initial impressions of the Naps were the same. Stunning detail with excellent control and wonderful soundstage, but slightly splashy high end at first. It's safe to say that after two months of use, the splashy high end has totally gone as the amp has settled in. The HackerNap is a gem. Enjoy!
Col.
Dave you can go down to 3.3uF on the inlet with no loss of bass thats what I use and a Wima MKP4 will fit nicely.Tried all sorts of feedback caps, have wet tants in at 47uF and they work best for me but if you have parts to try mix and match to suite yourself.Wait till its burn't in though as others have said the sound does change, leave it for about 100hours.
Get rid of the 0.1uF bypass films C15,10,12 though.
Geoff
Get rid of the 0.1uF bypass films C15,10,12 though.
Geoff
So did you get the teflons from e/bay?
Hi Bivalve, the caps are 4.7's. From memory the 10's were hideously expensive or large or both but the break frequency with 4.7's is about 2Hz so no worries on bass. With hindsight I didn't need the dissipante case; it would be cheaper and bigger inside without the fins - the fins get barely above room temperature even when it is getting a spanking
orangeart
KJF Audio Ltd.
flashgo
DIY Practitioner
Yes, from various sources in the former USSR. You want the lower voltage models in order to keep the size reasonable. SQ has been using them in his SuperFix phono pre-amp.
orangeart
KJF Audio Ltd.
Looking at the internals of nap 250's they have thier board mounted so that the alu channels are in the middle of the box, which is not even vented. Obviously they aren't worried about heat disipation! Wonder what the reasoning for this approach is?
Stefan
Geoff, and everybody.
Thank you for your help and advice on cap rolling!
I have had a try at Wima MKP 3.3 as inlet caps as opposed to 10uF MMK's. Took a while to dismantle, and lifted a trace off the board, even though forwarned, and careful. Dont want to be doing too much of this! I am thinking of installing pins on the board in order to change caps.
Initial experience with Wimas. The brittle top end is tamed, and the amp is now very smooth. Unfortunately I have lost the lovely instrument tones the MMK's were giving me. This is rather similar to my finding with the pre amp cap rolling. the best i can say is the sound is a bit 'plasticky'. Funnily enough very like the tonal balance of my NAP250! Also the mid / low range bass lift has gone. I put this down to having a 3.3 uF versus 10 uF inlet cap though.
geoff - what would be the effect of swapping the 47 uF AVX FFB feedback cap to a wet tant? Where would I get some of these ? Also what is the effect of removing C10 and 12 - and removing C15 also - is this correct. Dont mean to doubt you!
I'm wondering what other inlet caps to try to get a mix of the MMK and MKP effects.
Thank you to everybodies help and advice.
dave
Thank you for your help and advice on cap rolling!
I have had a try at Wima MKP 3.3 as inlet caps as opposed to 10uF MMK's. Took a while to dismantle, and lifted a trace off the board, even though forwarned, and careful. Dont want to be doing too much of this! I am thinking of installing pins on the board in order to change caps.
Initial experience with Wimas. The brittle top end is tamed, and the amp is now very smooth. Unfortunately I have lost the lovely instrument tones the MMK's were giving me. This is rather similar to my finding with the pre amp cap rolling. the best i can say is the sound is a bit 'plasticky'. Funnily enough very like the tonal balance of my NAP250! Also the mid / low range bass lift has gone. I put this down to having a 3.3 uF versus 10 uF inlet cap though.
geoff - what would be the effect of swapping the 47 uF AVX FFB feedback cap to a wet tant? Where would I get some of these ? Also what is the effect of removing C10 and 12 - and removing C15 also - is this correct. Dont mean to doubt you!
I'm wondering what other inlet caps to try to get a mix of the MMK and MKP effects.
Thank you to everybodies help and advice.
dave
Dave removing the small bypass caps was an idea from John Luckins, see his post on page 9/133 .I tried this on my NCC200 which is the same basic circuit and it had a small positive affect as he desribed. C15 is the cap across C3 as I removed all 3 at the same time not sure which has most effect.
The wet tants are from e/bay quite cheap, they give you beter bass, pacier and cleaner they work well with the wima inlets you really need to blend the two to suite your system so not every body would agree with this combination but it works best for me.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=190461042330
I always come back to the WIMA's on the inlet, I like what they do but in the long run when I sort out my pre so there is no DC offset I will delete them.There is no effect going to 3.3 from 10 I tried and could not hear any loss of bass.
The other mods I made recently have improved the amp futher it nows sounds like I have a sub in my system the bass is cleaner and more felt, acoustic instruments seem much more realistic.
Geoff
The wet tants are from e/bay quite cheap, they give you beter bass, pacier and cleaner they work well with the wima inlets you really need to blend the two to suite your system so not every body would agree with this combination but it works best for me.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=190461042330
I always come back to the WIMA's on the inlet, I like what they do but in the long run when I sort out my pre so there is no DC offset I will delete them.There is no effect going to 3.3 from 10 I tried and could not hear any loss of bass.
The other mods I made recently have improved the amp futher it nows sounds like I have a sub in my system the bass is cleaner and more felt, acoustic instruments seem much more realistic.
Geoff
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Me gain
Last question - I presume since my front end is at about 55V and output about 53V I will need wet tants above 50V?
In which case e bay throws up:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=130595911118
or
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=200652609692
at the moment. Neither are 47uF. Any best choice? Cheapest I guess. Or is the 50V wet tant indicated by Geoff OK based on voltages within the circuit??
Thank again for your help everyone.
Dave
Last question - I presume since my front end is at about 55V and output about 53V I will need wet tants above 50V?
In which case e bay throws up:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=130595911118
or
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=200652609692
at the moment. Neither are 47uF. Any best choice? Cheapest I guess. Or is the 50V wet tant indicated by Geoff OK based on voltages within the circuit??
Thank again for your help everyone.
Dave
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.