Robert
Tapehead
Nothing on the bass driver at all and one series cap on the tweeter.
There is a 47R resistor wired across the tweeter feed.
Gratuitous Naked shots
- Thread starter Samantha
- Start date
Nothing on the bass driver at all and one series cap on the tweeter.
There is a 47R resistor wired across the tweeter feed.
You'd be wasting time and money going active, since all you'd gain is the removal of one cap in the tweeter circuit. In fact, since no active electronics are totally transparent the sound would likely be less good!
Epos 11s and 14s have a huge advantage over conventional speakers in that the bass-mid and tweeter are perfectly tuned to their application with almost no electrical crossover requirement.
Give them a decent amp (Naim or Avondale - NOT Cambridge
) and you'll be smiling for years to come.Mr Tibbs
NeilR
pfm Member
regarding them lasting for years, I found the ES11s to be not 100% durable. The roll surround on the edge of the bass/mid driver came detached on one speaker and because the driver and front baffle are one piece, the entire front baffle of one speaker needed to be replaced. Not a cheap option....
Sid and Coke
and so the rebuild continues..
Wow guys there's some seriously neat DIY work going on there. After actually building something i always find it a bit of an effert to go back into it to de-construct and tidy up, especially if everything works and sounds good on initial testing.
Is the purpose of this thread to show some of the stuff that you've done, or just inside shots in general ... ?
Is the purpose of this thread to show some of the stuff that you've done, or just inside shots in general ... ?
I think as long as its bits we dont normally see we all get excited
If you have anything unusual Sid get it open and get the pics on, assuming there's no risk whatsoever of any damage being caused to the equipment and yourself, the usual warnings about mains connected, capacitors drained etc.
Go on, crack open that 1070 and lets have a look at her
If you have anything unusual Sid get it open and get the pics on, assuming there's no risk whatsoever of any damage being caused to the equipment and yourself, the usual warnings about mains connected, capacitors drained etc.
Go on, crack open that 1070 and lets have a look at her
Agent_Cooper79
pfm Member
Hi Robert,
really great to see the insides of the ES11! I have them and love them to death, now being driven by a 260z the bass really comes alive and from much lower volume levels. They need some welly to give their best although I have some very fond memories of them on the end of my old Nait3.
Is that tweeter cap depicted the original one, or have you changed it? What value is it?
If changed, did it give much of an improvement (it doesn't look like an electrolytic)?
/Magnus
really great to see the insides of the ES11! I have them and love them to death, now being driven by a 260z the bass really comes alive and from much lower volume levels. They need some welly to give their best although I have some very fond memories of them on the end of my old Nait3.
Is that tweeter cap depicted the original one, or have you changed it? What value is it?
If changed, did it give much of an improvement (it doesn't look like an electrolytic)?
/Magnus
PigletsDad
My intelligence test came back negative.
I changed the tweeter cap on my ES14 a couple of months ago. It wasn't night and day, but worth doing (and only cost a few pounds in parts and a few minutes in time to do.)
The sound is just a bit sweeter and cleaner, a slight layer of whispiness is gone.
The sound is just a bit sweeter and cleaner, a slight layer of whispiness is gone.
Agent_Cooper79
pfm Member
Interesting PD, was the original an electrolytic or plastic? What cap did you change to?
/Magnus
/Magnus
PigletsDad
My intelligence test came back negative.
In my case, the original was a Bennic electrolytic, which was what was factory fitted - I have owned the speakers from new. Different production batches seem to have different values, as the design was tweaked over the years. In the ES14, some have 2.2uF and some 3.3uF.
I changed to a cheap and cheerful polypropylene, own brand from Wilmslow audio. Exotic boutique parts might be better, but I don't view them as cost effective.
Robert
Tapehead
The tweeter on the 11 rolls in pretty high - 5.5khz which I think goes some way to explaining why I like them. Look at where domes are often weak and you find it is at the bottom of their response - distortion rockets. Keeping the crossover nice and high minimises the problem.
In terms of drive, I think anything clean and tight is fine. You can build on the strengths of the speaker by using nice simple cable of good cross section and an amp with low output impedance - really clamp that main driver to the output stage. Old 1960s RCA derived circuits will do, or you may prefer something more modern
The cap is the original factory fitted Bennic Polypropylene of 1.5uf. I can't see any reason to change it TBH.
The internal wiring looks like 1.5-2mm stuff and is short - again no need to fiddle.
Mine run with open cell bungs running the entire length of the port which brings loading closer to aperiodic than reflex - bass quality is hugely better and good extension and power is maintained unlike sealing them completely.
The only area I intend to tinker with is the internal stuffing since the very sparse lining on the rear panel will have been optimised for reflex operation.
They are an interesting speaker. I've had Impulse H2s in use now for a few years which if made today would cost roughly that of small car. Little touches them for scale, excitement and dynamic ability but the wee ES11 kicks them for tonality, seamlessness and, well, the niceness factor.
In terms of drive, I think anything clean and tight is fine. You can build on the strengths of the speaker by using nice simple cable of good cross section and an amp with low output impedance - really clamp that main driver to the output stage. Old 1960s RCA derived circuits will do, or you may prefer something more modern
The cap is the original factory fitted Bennic Polypropylene of 1.5uf. I can't see any reason to change it TBH.
The internal wiring looks like 1.5-2mm stuff and is short - again no need to fiddle.
Mine run with open cell bungs running the entire length of the port which brings loading closer to aperiodic than reflex - bass quality is hugely better and good extension and power is maintained unlike sealing them completely.
The only area I intend to tinker with is the internal stuffing since the very sparse lining on the rear panel will have been optimised for reflex operation.
They are an interesting speaker. I've had Impulse H2s in use now for a few years which if made today would cost roughly that of small car. Little touches them for scale, excitement and dynamic ability but the wee ES11 kicks them for tonality, seamlessness and, well, the niceness factor.
martin clark
pinko bodger
I confess I've never spent any time with these two Epos legends. I must come rattle your cage again soon, Rob...
Robert
Tapehead
Anytime Martin, we'll fix something up soon.
I think just about everything has changed since last time.
If you need any info on Crimson updates please PM me. I designed the PCBs and do updates and service work, besides still being active on the Hi-Fi side.
