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Grand Master Flash NCC200 build

So another month rolls by and

Something’s wrong.:eek:

Yup by this time I’ve usually got to the if only stage.

If only this or that where better.

I’ve usually had the bonnet up and the soldering iron out to do a bit of a retune.:D

But not with these amps.:cool:

No I’ve just stopped listening to the HIFI and started just enjoying the music which sounds superb through these amps.

I’ve made some comments about the need for a pre with a little gain. Having tried the DCB1 and glass house TVC which are both good with the right amps but just don’t do it for me with the voyagers.

To my ears these amps love a little drive and a small amount of gain goes a long way.

I’ve been happier with these amps over time which is a new one on me that’s for sure.:D:D

Still in aw after all this time.:cool:

BTW these amps have been rock solid reliable in my set up with no issues what so ever to report.:cool:
 
Good to hear Shaun.

I'm hoping to power up the front end of mine in the next few days to make sure they are ok.Then I'll need to sort out a chassis or two.
 
Marra said:
Good to hear Shaun.

I'm hoping to power up the front end of mine in the next few days to make sure they are ok.Then I'll need to sort out a chassis or two.
Click to expand...

Good work Keith:cool:

Keep us posted on your progress.

Go for Aluminium cases if you can as they dissipate heat much more efficiently than steel.

The Modushop ones are excellent with a little added bracing.

My cases run just hand warm when pushed a little but I’ve noticed that the temperature is spread more evenly throughout the case which is good.

Steel is nowhere near as effective IMHO so avoid it if you can.


Good luck with the big switch on.:)
 
Oh yes;alluminium for sure.I would'nt use anything else;just have to decide whether to go the fully home built route or splash out on the excellent Modushop kit.
 
I connected up the boards this morning and both were adjustable down to 1.613vdc but the trimmer was clicking at its end turn.
A transformer with 20V secondaries was used(will be using more voltage on final build) so +- 30vdc from the p/s.Will it be ok to leave set as is or is it sensible to recheck/set with the transformer I will be using for the final build?
 
Hi Keith

If it where me I’d try the transformers that you intend to use and see if it make any difference.

seems to me that you have some level of adjustment which may be the main thing in this case.

are the trimmers @max or min?

Let us know what happens.:)
 
It's the sensible thing to do.I've reset the trimmers and will readjust when I have the right transformer.

The trimmers were fully anti clockwise by the way when viewed from the top with the adjuster to the right.
 
Marra said:
It's the sensible thing to do.I've reset the trimmers and will readjust when I have the right transformer.

The trimmers were fully anti clockwise by the way when viewed from the top with the adjuster to the right.
Click to expand...

yes good move.:)

is the bias voltage moving up or down when you adjust it?
 
With the trimmers central clockwise increases the voltage with the voltage dropping when turned anti clockwise.

Centrally set the readings were 1.8V and 1.78V;so both within a fraction of one another.
 
Get Higher Baby

newncc200.jpg
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Rule 7 of DIY….. Never build the same thing twice.

Well that rules there to be broken and after seeing Alan’s super slick build and suffering from board envy because of it.

I've loved the Voyager so errrrrr

Well I just had to have another go.:)

IP and feedback resistors are Charcroft Naked foils with the associated resistors being AN tantalums.

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/car_resistors.html

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/tantalums.html


The rest are a mixture of PRP

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/prp_pr9372_metal_film_resistors.html

And Takman

Kiwame in the 15 Ohm spot

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/kiwame.html

The Wire wounds on the OP are Mills 5W

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mills.html

Coupling caps are Nichicon KZ which are unfeasibly big but nice.

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/nichicon.html

Some nice wet tants from Alan’s Paradise bag (a big thanks Alan)

Silver Mica’s (love the lavish description on these)

http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/silver_mica.html

Polyprop bypass and some polystyrenes for good measure.

As you can tell I wanted to do something a little different with this build so I’ve opted for some BUV20 from Cricklewood electronics which have always been good for hard to find parts in the past.

I’ve also have a pair of Motorola and SIS for a fall back from Little diode which I’ve never had fakes from.

The BUV20 are by transistor standards a little expensive but I’ve paid much more for tubes so the cost was not such a shock.

Beware though cheap fakes are around.

2 ways to spot a fake.

1) For users of the original NCC200 if they fit your boards without issue then you most likely have fakes. The BUV20 has thicker pins than MJ15003 and should not fit without a re-drill.

2) Rub some solvent over the transistor print and if it comes of easily then it could be a fake.
With genuine BUV20 the print is solvent resistant.

And yes I bought 1 (only as a test before buying more) cheapy for a look see but it was obviously a dud. The vendor has since removed them from sale so nuf said.

Will build mark2 sound better or worse or even just the same.

Who knows but it will be fun finding out.

BTW I’d appreciate the circular argument specialists staying away as it’s boring to read posts from people who spend most time talking a good build but never post their work.:cool:

So at the test stage.

Fingers crossed. :D
 
337alant said:
Hey Shaun
They look great (and a little familiar :D)
Hope you enjoy the result ;)

Alan
Click to expand...

Yes Alan

A chip off the old block and inspired by your super deluxe build which got me thinking.:cool:

Testing Monday building work permitting.;)
 
Both new boards are now tested (same method as used here before). They are installed with bias set to 35ma with offset @ 35 and 37mv and playing through the stunt speakers.


voyagerxl.jpg
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I’ll give them a few days to settle and then hook them up to the PMC’s.

Santa is bringing some Mundorf's MyLitics for the OP PSU this Xmas:)
 
Hi Kieth

If you are using ST 15003 the general consensus is that the ON semi types are better sounding but I've not compared for myself but maybe worth thinking on for a little bump up in SQ.


From what I've heard so far the BUF20 are better still and seem to have a meatier sound. They also seem to sound more ‘’powerful’’ having more punch to kick drum and a looovely controlled deep bass. Some say not much difference but I’m hearing something really special with the new amps. Maybe the component changes but in my experience those don't account for the step up in quality I’m finding.

Still early days on that front.:cool:

The down side is they are a little expensive.:(

But:D

I did get some genuine Motorola as back up from Little Diode which were quite reasonable cost wise.


Board envy.

Yes I know the feeling but you have some great amps to listen to while you build the next.:D
 
quality build there Shaun :cool:

Im interested in the BU 20 :rolleyes:
But one thing to consider is that I think and this is just my opinion that Standard metal film have a thinner more aggressive sound than the Dale resisters so I think that the Dales and AN resistors add a lot more body and natural sound I am getting another octave of bass from my amps compared to the Hackernap ;)
Alan
 
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