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Garrard 401

Thanks, fantastic! OK that's a new moment (with TSS) - have you ever tried what difference TSS actually makes to the Garrard? I would honestly expect that a heavy plinth is enough, especially if the feet are well elaborated - squash balls or whatever.
 
gortnipper said:
Hi Stuart - it looks like your 301 is actually a 1st week 1973 unit. An interesting thread comparing some feature cost-downs over the course of production seems to reinforce the date-stamp theory.

http://garrardmatters.freeforums.org/dating-a-401-t136.html

Regards,
David
Click to expand...

Thanks David.

It was Terry O'Sullivan at Loricraft who explained the stamp marking to me. I'm pretty sure that's what he said, as I was questioning why it would have a 301 stamp on it. I'll try and check with him when our paths cross again.

Stuart
 
After quite a long pause for thought, I've started on a plinth for the 401; based on the squash ball principle its frame will be of oak with other parts made from birch ply and maple for the armboard.

_AWL4309.jpg


_AWL4307.jpg


Having drawn up the design to be a compact as possible, the first thing I found when actually cutting the oak is just how big this turntable is going to be when finished. It's significantly larger than anything I've owned before and I really hadn't considered it up to this point. There's a nagging uncertainty about where I'll be able to put it when finished! It certainly won't fit on a standard (Target-sized) wall shelf, or even on the top of a regular floor stand... there may be trouble ahead...

Andrew
 
I have a wider plinth on my 401 and it fits on a target wall shelf so you should be OK.
Geoff
 
Andrew,

I own a Loricraft plinthed 401 and you're right - it's a big deck and doesn't fit easily on a standard rack. I use Naim Fraim and was faced with two options; First option to source a larger piece of glass; Second option to remove the supplied feet and use alternatives sited closer in to the centre. In the end I chose the latter, and while there's a degree of overhang (especially at the back) it looks good. Right now I'm experimenting with different feet and currently have some old A-T feet placed beneath the turntable. I haven't done any serious listening yet in this guise but will do so soon.
 
Chaps

I have a 401 mounted in a Loricraft plinth and it sits perfectly (and I mean spot on perfectly) on a Hutter stand.

Even better, is that the wood of the Hutter and the wood of the Loricraft plinth are identical in colour and shade.

It looks perfectly co ordinated.

Also and even better, it sound brilliant.

I must play it at least 2 hours a day every day.

Regards

Mick
 
CIMG0266.jpg


Built as a prototype 25mm ply 3mm lead sandwich,with four M35 threaded rods.
Next will be Panzerholz with an acoustiblok sandwich and the 401 flush mounted.
 
gortnipper said:
I am not so sure this is the way to read it. Most vacuum tubes of the era would use a single-digit-year+week-of-year date stamp. In this way, yours would read 1973 Week 01.



If I were to use the above method, yours would date to the 25th week of 1971. Fitting in nicely with what was inferred in my previous post.

As a check, I looked at my 401 which has "243" stamped. My table has a later S/N than yours, in the 32xxx range (?? - cant remember), fat font, raised strobe. This would fit nicely with a 1972 43rd week production date if the 4166/yr were reasonably accurate.

David
Click to expand...

On the chassis mine reads 702 by this method? Date would be?

Carol
 
There have been a whole bunch of info noted on the progression of the types of s/n plates and rivets as well.

"It looks like domed rivets with alloy I.D plate were used until they ran out of the dome ones,switched to hollow rivets with alloy plate until they ran out between 71 and 73 where upon they stopped using rivets and just stuck the alloy plate on...then they switched to sticky label after 74'ish when they ran out of the alloy plate."
 
Thanks for the thoughts and recommendations for tt supports. Progress to date – first full assembly to see how the final setup will work; arm is a Jelco SA750D:

_AWL4319.jpg


and on a temporary rig to make first audio test:

_AWL4335.jpg


So far so good...

Andrew
 
... getting rid just doesn't seem to come as naturally to me as acquiring them...
 
gortnipper said:
Maybe, maybe not.

Roslin - if your s/n is low, say around 10k, then it would be 1967.

If it were higher than 40k, then it would be 1977.

See here.[/QUOTE

Further investigation required, have not taken the platter off, I take it is simple?
Do have some photos on flickr of the chassis
venuskey


Thanks Carol
Click to expand...
 
gortnipper said:
There have been a whole bunch of info noted on the progression of the types of s/n plates and rivets as well.

"It looks like domed rivets with alloy I.D plate were used until they ran out of the dome ones,switched to hollow rivets with alloy plate until they ran out between 71 and 73 where upon they stopped using rivets and just stuck the alloy plate on...then they switched to sticky label after 74'ish when they ran out of the alloy plate."
Click to expand...

I looked at mine, a s/n of 34,xxx with the flat plate fascia, raised strobe, and modernised font, and the s/n plaque is alloy with domed rivets.
 
Somehow this post never materialized the first time...gremilins....

From your photo it is a bit hard to tell, but is the strobe mounted flush with the deck? It looks like it is and if so you have an earlier deck from 1967.

Taking the platter off is relatively simple. Grasp under the edge of the platter with your fingers, and lift with your thumbs pressing down on the spindle. You may have do do this rather firmly, as it may be stuck.

If it doesnt come off like this, lift the platter in the same way and use a wodden mallet or a block of wood (dont use a metal hammer) and rap on the spindle firmly. Dont be afraid to break it, as there is not much damage that can occur and the spindle can get quite attached to the platter.
 
Seems the Garrard lettering is cast. Feels like brail.

Will need to try the mallet method tomorrow.
Sore finger tips, and thumbs don't reach the centre spindle.
Tools in the shed.
I think it's the 67.
All will be revealed hopefully soon re' serial no.....

Thanks,

Carol
 
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