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Garrard 401

Right, the chopping boards are "Lamplig" and are £8 each. You need to saw off a step on one side and sand it smooth. It's hardwood so take your time. The boards are inverted so the groove isn't visible. I drilled 4 x holes 10mm and used M10 studding. Spacers to choice, originally I was using brass bar but ran out so I used ally Hoover attachments sawn to length. The oak is an old chest of drawers drawer front run through the saw, you aren't doing this by hand. Domed nuts were loose change in B&Q.

Cutout is the standard one on the net. The boards are quite big, but so is a 401 and it does end up in proportion. Just think about where you want the deck to sit in the board.

Erm, that's it really, any other questions just say.
 
I only used 2 boards, the middle bits are oak strips. It just looks nicer.

If you only have 2 boards and no spacers it tends to look a bit like an oil rig. I took this version to the first TT bakeoff at FlatP's house, a year and a bit ago, and you may find some pics.
 
I have an MDF solid plinth and the skeletal one above. I have not compared the 2 directly but I've lived with both. If there is a difference I can't hear it.
 
Hi,
i just got a garrard 401, i'm very new about it, anybody could tell me how to take away the turnplate?
thanks for you help

best
 
You may need an assistant. While lifting the platter up, get the assistant to tap the spindle sharply with a light hammer or a mallet. This will have it spring up and into your hands.

With practice you can do this alone.
 
For those of you with a little imagination;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/7571148296/

if you go through my photo stream you'll see my progression from Ikea beech block, through a Slate Audio plinth (DIY sub plinth) and the final (for the moment) Green Twist.

The Slate lifted a veil, and tightened things up, but I've found the heavy plywood plinths, either lacquered or French polished , have comparable information retrieval, with the added depth of bass the 401's are known for.

The bronze bearing in the pics too dropped the noise floor considerably.
 
It's all plywood, I went to Halfords with Ford Kiwi green, or Skoda Rallye. I ended up with British Leyland (rover) Tara metallic .

The top is loose ATM, I plan a more secure fit with either magnets, or speaker grill connectors, sounds too good to mess with for now.
 
divedeepdog said:
For those of you with a little imagination;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/7571148296/

if you go through my photo stream you'll see my progression from Ikea beech block, through a Slate Audio plinth (DIY sub plinth) and the final (for the moment) Green Twist.

The Slate lifted a veil, and tightened things up, but I've found the heavy plywood plinths, either lacquered or French polished , have comparable information retrieval, with the added depth of bass the 401's are known for.

The bronze bearing in the pics too dropped the noise floor considerably.
Click to expand...

could you provide some more details of the bronze bearing?
 
Nice looking work!

These lengthened Rega arms with wooden tubes. Do you use the original Rega headshell part & if so isn't the angle wrong for a longer arm?
 
TBH, I fiddle with it , till it sounds right. I've used the Vinyl Engine's program, and Rega's own protractor as a start point.

I've recently bought a stethoscope, the motor noise is pretty constant across the plinth, I may have to make another plinth with a more isolated arm board?
 
divedeepdog said:
For those of you with a little imagination;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/7571148296/

if you go through my photo stream you'll see my progression from Ikea beech block, through a Slate Audio plinth (DIY sub plinth) and the final (for the moment) Green Twist.

The Slate lifted a veil, and tightened things up, but I've found the heavy plywood plinths, either lacquered or French polished , have comparable information retrieval, with the added depth of bass the 401's are known for.

The bronze bearing in the pics too dropped the noise floor considerably.
Click to expand...

Hi do you have any experiance of machining slate, ie, type of cutter/speed/lubricant.
Regards Esprit
 
I cut my first bit of slate with a ceramic jigsaw blade, took over an hour to cut about 8" !!
That was for the 401 sub chassis .
I've since bought a 4 ½ " grinder and some abrasive wheels which has speeded up the process considerably. Its great for straight edges, but corners and curves need a bit of imagination.

I've finished edges with files n rasps finishing with wet n dry, but again recently purchased belt sander has helped finishing the process.

These rough DIY solutions have been reasonably successful, but I wouldn't want to tackle the really heavy duty 35mm + pieces of slate without really serious kit.
 
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