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Epos ES14's and the search for the Holy Grail

Ex brickie, I think this is about the best place for information .
My 2 pairs (500 & 19**) show there was continual development .My tweeters aside, the ports are different sizes, and the latter model has thicker a cabinet .



As another POI, there was a a pair of Celestion SL6S for sale, but they were exactly like the original 6 with copper tweeter and chipboard cabinet.

It's obvious development is rolled out , that clause of continual development is there for good reason
 
Almost finished my Slated pair, not perfect, but certainly an improvement IMO.

www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/7650957500/[/IMG]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/7650957500/

There's a bit of plywood porn if you care to look through my pics :D

With hindsight, Sandstone tiles would , perhaps been better to look at ?

I've had trouble with adhesive, I used rapid setting flexible, supposed to be suitable for tiling over wooden substrate, but they fell off! Hence the use of wood screws , to be replaced with dome head cabinet connectors.
 
Love that skew whiff Garrard plinth! Who's the guy in img 0139? Is he the one with the golden ears who's making you spend all this cash?
 
I've had trouble with adhesive, I used rapid setting flexible, supposed to be suitable for tiling over wooden substrate, but they fell off! Hence the use of wood screws , to be replaced with dome head cabinet connectors.

I used high fired porcelain tiles (unglazed - very, very stiff), cut them with a diamond saw and had a glass polishers re-polish the edges. I had no difficulty gluing them on and also used flexible tile adhesive intended for wooden floors.
 
YNWOAN, obviously I'm following your lead, no idea why the glue failed, but the tiles fell off the evening they were put on the stands. Glad I wasn't asleep .

Brandy 'The Bear' (0139) plays all sorts of mind tricks, usually on his brother, getting into all sorts of mischief together.
 
Hmm.. don't know - perhaps it hadn't 'gone off' sufficiently. I did find the cladding made quite a worthwhile improvement (was very fiddly to do neatly though and the tiles were, by far, the hardest I have ever cut).

I'm sorry I haven't contributed to your thread earlier but, as appearers to be the case here, the subject is either a well trodden path or the opportunity for idiots to troll.

Your cabinet looks interesting but, if I may, there a couple of things I would have done differently. I see the tweeter is behind quite a thick ply baffle -I would not have done that and would have used much the same construction that Epos used. There is also the opportunity to time-align the drive units by bringing the woofer forward on a thicker section of baffle; this would, potentially, create a diffraction issue for the tweeter, but carefully cut and applied foam could resolve that.

The problem with ES14's is that, price wise, their natural home is in systems that are below the required performance level (even more so now). In many cases, absolute conclusions have been drawn about their performance within systems where the actual 'blame' lies elsewhere. The fact is that ES14's are significantly more transparent to that which proceeds them than the majority of their contemporaries (hugely more in some cases). In addition, whilst (unlike some speakers) they will sound OK if plonked down pretty much anywhere in the room, they will only sound really good if very carefully positioned (and experimented with).

The reason that opinions vary so widely regarding treble and bass quality is not because of sample variation; it is mostly due to variations in the quality and experience of the opinion itself; many opinions are stated on forums (and often with apparent authority) - however, these stated 'facts' of opinion are often utter bollocks. The bass can sound poor, the answer is to position them better and use better amplification and source. The treble can sound spitty, the answer is to use better amplification and source.
 
I second the tweeter comment, the last thing it needs is a short flared horn, Jim Goulding's diffraction-be-gone pads made an appreciable improvement over no from baffle treatment on my pair.
 
The front ply baffles are screwed onto the front of the cabinet, I can experiment with the tweeter position, if I get positive results in front, I could route out the back of the baffle, and push the tweeter forward.

It's been a worthwhile project, its all got a lot tighter. I'm using less port stuffing giving a nice increase in deeper bass whilst keeping the midrange.



I'm in the lucky position not to have to share the 'hot spot', plus, according to a brief hearing test I'm deaf above 12k :roll eyes:
 
Hmm.. don't know - perhaps it hadn't 'gone off' sufficiently. I did find the cladding made quite a worthwhile improvement (was very fiddly to do neatly though and the tiles were, by far, the hardest I have ever cut).

I'm sorry I haven't contributed to your thread earlier but, as appearers to be the case here, the subject is either a well trodden path or the opportunity for idiots to troll.

Your cabinet looks interesting but, if I may, there a couple of things I would have done differently. I see the tweeter is behind quite a thick ply baffle -I would not have done that and would have used much the same construction that Epos used. There is also the opportunity to time-align the drive units by bringing the woofer forward on a thicker section of baffle; this would, potentially, create a diffraction issue for the tweeter, but carefully cut and applied foam could resolve that.

The problem with ES14's is that, price wise, their natural home is in systems that are below the required performance level (even more so now). In many cases, absolute conclusions have been drawn about their performance within systems where the actual 'blame' lies elsewhere. The fact is that ES14's are significantly more transparent to that which proceeds them than the majority of their contemporaries (hugely more in some cases). In addition, whilst (unlike some speakers) they will sound OK if plonked down pretty much anywhere in the room, they will only sound really good if very carefully positioned (and experimented with).

The reason that opinions vary so widely regarding treble and bass quality is not because of sample variation; it is mostly due to variations in the quality and experience of the opinion itself; many opinions are stated on forums (and often with apparent authority) - however, these stated 'facts' of opinion are often utter bollocks. The bass can sound poor, the answer is to position them better and use better amplification and source. The treble can sound spitty, the answer is to use better amplification and source.

> +1
 
They certainly appreciate a source first approach, I've borrowed a friends Lavry D10 and it's sounding lovely :)

Need to be brave now, and snip out the SAO of my mono 110's.
 
"The problem with ES14's is that, price wise, their natural home is in systems that are below the required performance level (even more so now). In many cases, absolute conclusions have been drawn about their performance within systems where the actual 'blame' lies elsewhere. The fact is that ES14's are significantly more transparent to that which proceeds them than the majority of their contemporaries (hugely more in some cases). In addition, whilst (unlike some speakers) they will sound OK if plonked down pretty much anywhere in the room, they will only sound really good if very carefully positioned (and experimented with)."

+1

Same goes for IBL's as well
 
These speakers keep responding to change, my stands have the solid top plate.
I've removed it from the stands, and screwed it directly to the speaker. The spikes back in place, and the speakers on top with the spikes coupled into the screw heads.

Bungs out with most music, maintains all the control they're known for.


I've got some wool felt pads on the way, will keep you updated:)
 
Hi everyone.

Been a member for a while but this is my first time posting.

Found this old thread I'd like to revive.

I have found a pair of ES14 Bi-wiring speakers I'd like to buy.
I don't know if they are MK I or MK II or MK III series?
Can someone tell me what series they are with the info below?

This is the info I can give about the ES14:
# Bass drivers are concave.

# Tweeter mesh is black.

# Rear bass port hole for bungs has no edge lip.
I don't see any sticker with serial number.
I assume the serial number sticker was attached to the plastic tube where bungs are inserted?

# There's a rear decal with printed large letters saying - EPOS ES14 SPEAKER SYSTEM

# Bi-wire.

Some people seem to have bland opinions about MKII and MKIII series coz they were built at a later time period by Mourdant Short factory?
I'd be happy if someone could shed some info about the speakers I'm going to buy.

Are Single wire speakers more preferred over Bi-wire versions?

For how long or what MK versions received or did factory only use Concave or Convex bass drivers on the ES14 as what was available by manufacturing supplier?

I currently have the Naim Classic series from 2000.
I'd like to upgrade my speakers with ES14.
Would ES14 suit well with my hifi gear because it's not the previous Olive series.




Thanks for your help
 
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Sounds like they are the early version, and have been bi-wired at some point. Nothing wrong with bi-wiring, but a bit of a pain hooking up a single wired feed from your Naim. Don't see any reason why the Classic series amps shouldn't work fine with them.
 
I have had the Epos ES14 from 1996 until 2011. Were working very good from the beginning with oliv series up to classic series I had in theses days. Last amp working was the Supernait 1. Best speakers I ever had!
 
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If the price and condition is good ? Why not try them.
No matter what MK version, bi-wire or whatever.

Original stands and replace the tweeter Xover item should follow

I ran my first pair es14 with a Nait
 
Do they work OK with a Nait then? Funnily enough, a friend has a MK1 Nait that he uses with ES11s. However, I have my old ES14s and Origin Live tripod stands and thought he may be able to use them as an upgrade on his ES11s - but he was wondering if his Nait would be up for it? Personally I though it likely would work OK as he never listens very loudly.
 


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