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Cycling log - random events in the day of a cyclist

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Steve though it pains me to say it, planetx mile munchers, as tough as conti gatorskin hardshell but much more compliant. They're made by panaracer in japan, good for 10,000k of gutter riding.
Have you left/been furloughed by PX then? I can imagine they are suffering.

Back on boring BBs - PX have a:
"Holdsworth Gran Sport Square Taper Bottom Bracket is expertly designed and manufactured to fit a 68mm British bottom bracket.
  • Fits 110mm spindles
  • 68mm BSA threads
Is this the thread pattern used in a Shimano UN BB, 68mm outer, square taper? The PX one is certainly inexpensive, only a tenner, and bang on for a pub bike.
 
I had a closer look and I think someone already tried that. Maybe not gently enough or the dent was too bad; I spotted a small crack in the middle of the brake surface. I might avoid descending alps for a bit.
If it's cracked then it's done. They normally crack where the brakes wear them away and near the angle. I've taken them to bits, there is an inner layer too so if the outer cracks I doubt they will collapse overnight, but it's not safe.

Those blue ones look fab. Assuming you are not 14 stone, loading it with panniers and crashing down unmade roads, I think they'll be great.
 
There's more...
Many (many) years ago I went from 7 speed to 8speed on the MTB. Off came some integrated brake and shifter levers and tey went into the bits box. I was told that the old (canti brake) levers would not work with V brakes because they don't pull enough cable through. I've had a look, the canti levers pull 20mm of cable against a V brake lever's 22mm. I reckon I could make this work if I kept the adjusters right. Has anyone tried it, did serious injury and death ensue? I'm guessing not, for 20mm plays 22. The integrated brakes and shifters are the best set of levers etc I have in the bits box, so I'd like to use them.

I fancy wrestling an old set of forks on the thing tomorrow. Cue further head scratching.
 
Have you left/been furloughed by PX then? I can imagine they are suffering.

Back on boring BBs - PX have a:
"Holdsworth Gran Sport Square Taper Bottom Bracket is expertly designed and manufactured to fit a 68mm British bottom bracket.
  • Fits 110mm spindles
  • 68mm BSA threads
Is this the thread pattern used in a Shimano UN BB, 68mm outer, square taper? The PX one is certainly inexpensive, only a tenner, and bang on for a pub bike.

Yes BSA is the standard threads, confusingly called all manner of things over the years like ISO, BSA, British, BSC etc. General rule of thumb being 68mm is the standard BB shell width, 73 usually being MTB shell and 70 being for Italian. Tapers are either JIS for Shimano and ISO for Campag. So a 68-110 JIS would be for a 68mm shell, 110mm axle and Shimano taper.

There are a couple of outliers (like the Raleigh you discovered, Italian and French) and not to mention the whole raft of new daft BB standards which I won't get into.
 
Yes BSA is the standard threads, confusingly called all manner of things over the years like ISO, BSA, British, BSC etc. General rule of thumb being 68mm is the standard BB shell width, 73 usually being MTB shell and 70 being for Italian. Tapers are either JIS for Shimano and ISO for Campag. So a 68-110 JIS would be for a 68mm shell, 110mm axle and Shimano taper.

There are a couple of outliers (like the Raleigh you discovered, Italian and French) and not to mention the whole raft of new daft BB standards which I won't get into.
Thanks Matt, so it is the standard I am used to from 90s MTBs. I'll order one. Don't get me started on BB standards, I have a very nice crankset but it's on a f*ing Octalink with a worn out BB. No thanks. I haven't yet gone to Hollowtech, I don't want to. I have a raft of special tools for BBs already.
 
I think a fair few 90s MTBs had the 73mm BB shell, so probably best double check whatever frame it is going in. Octolink BBs are also only about £12-15 if you ever need one.

At the minute I think there are approx over 10 different current road BB standards, complete madness.
 
Misty and cool this morning, so pretty much perfect conditions. 21 miles, took it easy (crawling in and over a helicopter ain’t fun with sore legs) and still set 18 PBs on Strava.

681EA315_04D0_4853_A31D_AB734EECD462_92B2C031_CFEC_4B00_B322_D78F6269D567.jpeg
 
I think a fair few 90s MTBs had the 73mm BB shell, so probably best double check whatever frame it is going in.
Standard issue 68 thanks Matt. Ordered the bearing, if I can sort the headset before then then it rolls.

Octolink BBs are also only about £12-15 if you ever need one.
Really? Where? Like I say I have a nice Race Face crankset that I'd be happy to use. I'd even be prepared to buy (yet another) crank/BB tool to fit it.[/QUOTE]
 
Really? Where? Like I say I have a nice Race Face crankset that I'd be happy to use. I'd even be prepared to buy (yet another) crank/BB tool to fit it.

Well no need for the extra tool as Octalink BBs use the same Shimano splined tool for fitting/removal, so more money saved there!

You can still get them from most of the big online bike retailers, probably on Amazon and Ebay as well. Just google BB-ES300 and there should be loads.
 
Yes - there’s no hills. Should be sporting 53x11.

I’ve switched my road bikes to compact cranks with 46/34 - I am well past trying to impress, and pass plenty of others on the uphills.
 
The bits have arrived for me to get the On-One Inbred singlespeed MTB going again, so that's a job for the weekend. What's the bet that I give it one go - decide (again) that I hate singlespeeds, then conver it from a rigid singlespeed back to a geared front-suspension bike and put it up for sale?
 
Misty and cool this morning, so pretty much perfect conditions. 21 miles, took it easy (crawling in and over a helicopter ain’t fun with sore legs) and still set 18 PBs on Strava.

681EA315_04D0_4853_A31D_AB734EECD462_92B2C031_CFEC_4B00_B322_D78F6269D567.jpeg

Your saddle is very nose down. That is going to tip you forward and put a lot of extra weight on your hands. might get uncomfortable on a long ride.

Have you tried it with the saddle flat? I would have thought it would give you a more balanced position with less pressure on your hands.
 
The bits have arrived for me to get the On-One Inbred singlespeed MTB going again, so that's a job for the weekend. What's the bet that I give it one go - decide (again) that I hate singlespeeds, then conver it from a rigid singlespeed back to a geared front-suspension bike and put it up for sale?
Got it in one! You slipped up, windhoek is only in Glasgow and he's a recently converted single speed evangelist (he's not ridden it yet, still polishing it) so you could have offloaded it to him. By the time he's worked out that singlespeeds are for kids, shopping bikes and posers, you're away with the money. Bad timing.
 
Got it in one! You slipped up, windhoek is only in Glasgow and he's a recently converted single speed evangelist (he's not ridden it yet, still polishing it) so you could have offloaded it to him. By the time he's worked out that singlespeeds are for kids, shopping bikes and posers, you're away with the money. Bad timing.

Despite the wet and windy conditions I did stick the chainset on the singlespeed and take it for a spin up into the Pentlands. It wasn't anything like as bad as I'd expected, even on the first climb into the hills from the door (only 2km at an average of 3%, but with a few steeper bits to about 10%). I was expecting problems so was taking it pretty easy but it was fine - didn't even need to get out the saddle on the steeper bits (or anywhere else on what's a pretty easy route). In fact for a route like that one 32:18 is definitely under-geared as even on the flat sections into the teeth of the wind it wasn't possible to pedal fast enough to get my HR up, so overall it was a pretty relaxed ride and the lowest overall HR I've had on a ride for a while. Slow though!

170789813.c5IF7KDt.ss01.jpg


I'll need to give it some thought because if I was doing rides like that I'd definitely raise the gearing, however there are a lot of steeper climbs that I'd like to do on it (and have done on it in the past) that will be a struggle even with 32:18.
 
Despite the wet and windy conditions I did stick the chainset on the singlespeed and take it for a spin up into the Pentlands. It wasn't anything like as bad as I'd expected, even on the first climb into the hills from the door (only 2km at an average of 3%, but with a few steeper bits to about 10%). I was expecting problems so was taking it pretty easy but it was fine - didn't even need to get out the saddle on the steeper bits (or anywhere else on what's a pretty easy route). In fact for a route like that one 32:18 is definitely under-geared as even on the flat sections into the teeth of the wind it wasn't possible to pedal fast enough to get my HR up, so overall it was a pretty relaxed ride and the lowest overall HR I've had on a ride for a while. Slow though!

170789813.c5IF7KDt.ss01.jpg


I'll need to give it some thought because if I was doing rides like that I'd definitely raise the gearing, however there are a lot of steeper climbs that I'd like to do on it (and have done on it in the past) that will be a struggle even with 32:18.
Wherein lies the rub. My roady is OK, a bit twiddly on gentle downhills but just about OK on road hills in Leed s and (hillier) Bradford. Great on a towpath. About 61"I think. But off road? No chance. I might be able to live with fewer gears but as soon as you try to settle on say a 1x for simplicity you get say a 34 front. 11 rear is, hmm, OK off road, but to get a meaningful low gear you need 32 as absolute minimum, so you are into 8 speeds as a minimum and even then it's compromised on a steep climb off road.
 
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