Creation of dedicated listening room
- Thread starter dspatterson
- Start date
tuga
Legal Alien
I've never hear that term, only nogging.
Copperjacket
pfm Member
Also called Noggins south of the Border.
Not a pleasant experience I’ve been told.
Not only believe, but have physically done so, and I do not smoke or partake in nonsense.
The only times I measured were to start with to see what it actually was, and when finally finished, when it would be very difficult to do much more.
I just (literally) did everything I could, which many would be unable to accommodate.
Belief - nah.
Same thing.
tuga
Legal Alien
It would be interesting to see the before and after measurements. Did you consider installing a Helmholtz resonator? How are you addressing the effects of room modes? Or are you just insulating the room (to keep noise in)?
wulbert
pfm Member
"Dwang" is the Scottish word. "Noggin" is English version.
wulbert
pfm Member
Interesting project. Best of luck with it. Thanks for sharing.
Reminds me of when I installed a new stud wall in my own house. Put the floor and ceiling plates down, then started cutting the vertical studs. Made sure the first one was a good, tight fit. Bash it in with an 8lb mallet ("that's going nowhere") . Then the second one ("hmm a little bit longer that one"), then the third ("longer still, that's weird") by the fourth one I heard the ceiling plasterwork creaking and realised that I was jacking up the whole upstairs.
Reminds me of when I installed a new stud wall in my own house. Put the floor and ceiling plates down, then started cutting the vertical studs. Made sure the first one was a good, tight fit. Bash it in with an 8lb mallet ("that's going nowhere") . Then the second one ("hmm a little bit longer that one"), then the third ("longer still, that's weird") by the fourth one I heard the ceiling plasterwork creaking and realised that I was jacking up the whole upstairs.
This is someone elses room build - I have done 3, all of which are documented online with a lot of images, easy to find on my site.
I have no intention of showing stuff from mine, it would not be the correct thing to do.
The final room needed nothing more after it was completed, no helmholtz etc.
I had a room, a set of constraints, and I simply did everything I could within those constraints, so what it turned into is what it is, no matter what measurements were taken.
So, I have to disagree with your first assertion of 'beleiving without measuring'.
It actually is quite easy, given confidence you know what you are doing and working within what you have and can do.
I have no intention of showing stuff from mine, it would not be the correct thing to do.
The final room needed nothing more after it was completed, no helmholtz etc.
I had a room, a set of constraints, and I simply did everything I could within those constraints, so what it turned into is what it is, no matter what measurements were taken.
So, I have to disagree with your first assertion of 'beleiving without measuring'.
It actually is quite easy, given confidence you know what you are doing and working within what you have and can do.
Good to see you tackling the acoustics. The room is the most important component IMO and the best advice I can offer is to measure using the free to download excellent REW and buy a suitable mic. This will save some expensive mistakes and also avoid over damping. There are usually comments to the effect of 'killing the sound' or 'all rooms are different so what works for one room won't work with yours' This is why you measure to remove any doubt or guesswork.
The mic. costs less than a decent interconnect and will be your best investment ever. You are essentially removing the damage poor acoustics do to the sound leaving your speakers and you get to hear the acoustics of the venue.
There is much on the net on how to use REW including YouTube and also a visit to 'gearspace' will help you on your way. It will help with the positioning of your speakers and subs should you choose to use them which I strongly recommend. Multi-subs are a powerful tuning method to sort out problematic room modes which all rooms suffer from.
The mic. costs less than a decent interconnect and will be your best investment ever. You are essentially removing the damage poor acoustics do to the sound leaving your speakers and you get to hear the acoustics of the venue.
There is much on the net on how to use REW including YouTube and also a visit to 'gearspace' will help you on your way. It will help with the positioning of your speakers and subs should you choose to use them which I strongly recommend. Multi-subs are a powerful tuning method to sort out problematic room modes which all rooms suffer from.
dspatterson
pfm Member
I'm not trying to soundproof the room outwardly ,I don't have worries there , and I don't play loud , but there are benefits to creating a quiet space within.The term soundblock may be misleading for my requirements ,it's more than it is much denser and heavier and takes you a "small" way towards the benefit of a solid wall.
When you rap the walls in my house the resonance is clear .The dwangs raise the resonance as they create smaller cavities with increased plaster board contact to wood . The insulation helps deaden that remaining drum effect ..The ply wood addition tightens up the complete wall and reduces the flexing of the eg 12ft x2.4m panel which the whole wall is in effect .
Basically stud partition walls are a nightmare for good sound .
When you rap the walls in my house the resonance is clear .The dwangs raise the resonance as they create smaller cavities with increased plaster board contact to wood . The insulation helps deaden that remaining drum effect ..The ply wood addition tightens up the complete wall and reduces the flexing of the eg 12ft x2.4m panel which the whole wall is in effect .
Basically stud partition walls are a nightmare for good sound .
martin clark
pinko bodger
In Scotland - 'Dwang' = noggin, or patress (England).
Actually my very fave bit of Scots site usage is a ' a Slapping' = what the rest of us call a 'builder's work opening' i.e. a hole for service penetrations etc.
martin clark
pinko bodger
Not true; & the solutions are entirely-DIY-able.
but for reasons too long to post in this margin /lack of upload space: happy to take to PM; send me an email address & I'll happily share some details & suggestions.
(I do things like this in the day-job, & have done such in facilities like the Beeb.)
Mike Reed
pfm Member
Confusing, that, as a pattress is surely a box for electrical connections, socket, whatever. I've got 8 for my hifi. Ah, have just noticed the single p spelling, so maybe a totally different thing.
@dspatterson , Dedicated c.u. adjacent to hifi; nice; depending on number of outlets, allows some variation of connectivity. Have you stated the full kit to go in the room, as the dimensions would limit your choice of speaker, I'd've thought?
Yank
Bulbous Also Tapered
And "blocking" in the US.
wulbert
pfm Member
Maybe called "pattress box" because they are normally fixed to a pattress behind the plaster? As opposed to a "surface mount" box.
tuga
Legal Alien
The fact is that you only know if you need Helmholtz resonators or bass traps (also their bandwidth) if you measure.
naka
pfm Member
I have a dedicated room, build from scratch, with the following dimensions: 3,60 x 4,90 x 2,42m (width, length, height), and used this material between the gypsum boards: https://www.greengluecompany.com.