advertisement


Budget 401

Zaphod said:
I have picked this up from a charity shop at a price than might make some on here cry (£20! yes, theft really)... While I have always wanted a 401 or 301 I never actually thought I would have one as the price has always stopped me. My current turntables are a technics SL1700 Mk2 and a Beogram 5005.. oh and now this.

IMG_0624.jpg

IMG_0626.jpg

IMG_0627.jpg

IMG_0628.jpg


What I am curious about is the arm, it does not really look like it should be there , I know they never came with one but this really does not look like it belongs, but I'd like to know what it is.

I am looking to put somthing else on there and currently am looking at a second hand Rega R200 or ACOS Lustre GST1, (The ubiquitous SME 3009 is again out of my range!) I will have to build a plinth, any advice? and what should be serviced, this looks to have been in 'storage' for some time!
Click to expand...

I've a 301 on Loricraft suspended plinth, just four double dot squash balls suspend the plinth on rectangular boards with round recesses in the tops to hold the squash balls mounted in the corners of a nice box to hide the motor and such. Patterns for cutting the plinth (Terry at Lorricraft would recommend plywood first then MDF second, but you could even try slate if you got the funds) are available, the tonearm axis to spindle of turntable measurement comes in handy for making that mounting site. Rubber ring washers go between turnable and plinth, tighten only till space taken up then perhaps another 1/4 to 1/2 turn with fingers only, not tools.
 
I've been working with slate, I bought a hearth for about £30, 2 pieces 450x600 15mm thick.

I've got a ceramic blade for my jigsaw (30 grit rather than a blade) and with lots of patience it can be cut to quite intricate profiles like the 401 cutout. I would grinder would be quicker, but not as accurate.

Squash balls are too squashy, I'm experimenting with cork balls and spikes.

the top deck is Slate audio, the lighter piece of slate is DIY just to show cut outs can be done.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49381909@N08/6892267898/in/photostream/
 
That's very interesting; I've been thinking of doing something similar with my 401. I've built a Loricraft style plinth (oak frame with baltic ply top board) and would like to try slate instead of the ply. 15mm thickness would be just about right I think. Any chance you'd like to share where you bought the hearth slate from?

The cuts on the slate I'd be most worried about would be the outside straight edges - I figure it might be better to get it cut professionally to size and then carefully make the turntable cutout myself.

Andrew
 
I bought a large piece of slate off Ebay for £18 (slate seems to be sold eitheir very cheap under £20 or expensively over £100) and then took it round to the local kitchen granite workshop place where for £80 they cut perfectly smooth outside edges and an amazingly accurate plinth hole.

You can view the project here http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=7596.0

hopefully this will give you some ideas.
 
JimKempton said:
Arm is a def a Connoisseur SAU2, have one in my parts box
Click to expand...

Likewise, I sorted out my parts box a few months ago and ended up giving the SAU2 away for free. It's an ok tonearm when you've got no other, but I'd make it a priority to replace it with a decent one (after you've had a good listen to the 401!)

Cheers
Adrian
 
Hi, the slate was from here 600 x 900, I had it cut in half for 2 pieces 600 x 450

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=280850919000

it was cut in half FOC, and came well packaged .

It took me almost an hour for a 450mm cut, you do need variable speed jigsaw, otherwise the blades just get hot ! More important to go slowly and straight.

I used a Surform, (a bastard file would work ) and then normal sandpaper for the edges, but would have been quicker with heavier grit ( roughest I had was 100g) but as soon as you get a smooth surface, you can quickly get through the grades.

Not sure I'd want to cut much thicker than 20mm diy, but I believe a suitable grinder would be quicker.

Mark


My current situation means I'm poor, but time rich. It also coincided with the nice weather and I was able to do it outside :)
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
'It also coincided with the nice weather and I was able to do it outside :) '

I want pictures! please
 
Well been a while but I have made some alterations to this..
This is the current state, it's sounding pretty good now but I do wonder if I should be looking at either mounting the arm properly and later look for an RB300 or similar, or look for a 3009 (I just like the way they look)

null_zps0deec128.jpg
 
This also appears to be an early ish 401. It has two suppresses bolted under the pitch control. It would seem the plinth (which is in fact veneered MDF) was made for the later 401, certainly that's what it had in it in the eBay photos. It it an issue if I leave them loose under there? As otherwise I need to start chopping away to accommodate them in their original position
 
I don't think it's that early. The earlier ones had a domed speed light IIRC. The flush fitting one on yours is the later ones, I think that's the right way round.
 
stevec67 said:
I don't think it's that early. The earlier ones had a domed speed light IIRC. The flush fitting one on yours is the later ones, I think that's the right way round.
Click to expand...

Not certain but think it may be the other way round. Have had both and the flush one, which I think was earlier, seemed to be better built.
 
Twin spark and flush strobe is the earlier version. They also have a cast metal front plate that makes them a lot heavier.

Best solution is to chop out the plinth a little if your happy doing that, otherwise cable tie them to something to stop them rattling. Just check they're not leaking, although perfect sound do sell replacements.
 
Flush strobe are early, raised strobe later. Look at the SN on the deck underneath the platter, and I bet it is four digits or low five. There is a three number date stamp on the bottom of chassis, and you can tell the year and week of manufacture. First digit is the last digit of the year and the next two digits are the week.

For example, if the stamp said 521, in your case, it would be 21st week of 1965. In the case of a raised strobe model with a high SN, it would be 21st week of 1975.

More info on determining date of manufacture for 401s here: http://garrardmatters.freeforums.org/dating-a-401-t136.html
 
From the SN, I would guess your unit was made in late 1966. Check the date stamp on the underside of the chassis for exact numbers.
 
Just looked at it, the SN is 07683, however the only 3 digit number on the underside is '606 which I believe would put it as being made 6th week of 1966 I believe?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top