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Bi-Wiring, is it still a "thing"?

As you are clearly an expert on MBL amps please explain what do you think the extra power socket does (or doesn’t) do. Perhaps you are making some incorrect assumptions.
 
Something slightly different, courtesy of my mate @CJ14 . Single wire from the amplifier to the loudspeaker, with a second set of wire (can be anything) leading back from the speakers to extra terminals on the amplifier.

It's a 'sense' circuit, feed forward error correction that detects any variation at the speaker terminal compared with the amplifier input, and corrects it within the amplifier. It makes an astonishing difference, it can easily be compared as the system can play with/without it.
 
My neighbour wants me to sell his Linn Kaber (spelling?).

He tells me they are best tri-amped!

He's given his Linn setup to his lad, but the speakers were too big so wants rid.

On the back it states AKTIV. Does that mean they can be tri-wired?

Not a clue.
 
Something slightly different, courtesy of my mate @CJ14 . Single wire from the amplifier to the loudspeaker, with a second set of wire (can be anything) leading back from the speakers to extra terminals on the amplifier.

It's a 'sense' circuit, feed forward error correction that detects any variation at the speaker terminal compared with the amplifier input, and corrects it within the amplifier. It makes an astonishing difference, it can easily be compared as the system can play with/without it.
In other words, it includes the cable in the feedback loop. That will only make a difference if the cable was poorly chosen (too thin) to begin with.
 
/\ Trio "Sigma-Drive" circa 1980. A solution looking for a problem and likely to be unstable if truly wide band and high loop gain.
 
In other words, it includes the cable in the feedback loop. That will only make a difference if the cable was poorly chosen (too thin) to begin with.

Current limit will be a problem at high power so not to thin

The external feedback loop will have rather high, and unpredictable, inductance. That can't be good.

A 3M of bell wire from Woolworth basic crap for the feedback sense wires is only 10uH single cable and 5uH common mode and the small amount of current being fed back is tiny, (TQ Ultra is much much higher than than that) i.e. with 50VRMS out (300 plus Watts) is in my case less than only 1mA with a load of 50K Ohm.
So at what frequency would see a problem in the error signal you go ??
 
My neighbour wants me to sell his Linn Kaber (spelling?).

He tells me they are best tri-amped!

He's given his Linn setup to his lad, but the speakers were too big so wants rid.

On the back it states AKTIV. Does that mean they can be tri-wired?

Not a clue.

If the neighbour used three power amps and electronic crossover, they are active and won't work.
Guess its difficult sourcing passive filters.
Had Kabers myself back then and liked them.

I wouldn't worry about triwire, its just remove the crap links and have made up some "E" bananas to your cable
 
I bi-wired for a number of years, convinced it was the right thing to do and in fairness, all the HiFi mags were confirming this to be the case at that time. I was never totally happy with the sound reproduction and one day, out of curiosity , I re-installed the speaker links and single wired into the bass inputs. What a transformation! Everything just ‘clicked’ and my speakers produced a balanced and integrated sound.....neither driver out shining the other, as was the case in bi-wiring.....

Since then it’s always been about budgeting for the finest single wire run of speaker cable , the upgrade is not subtle when compared to 2 runs of cheaper bi-wire..
 
I have a bi-wired system, in fact I have had two, with two more in the pipe line. The main bi-wire system is in the sitting room, and is also used for TV sound. With just one (integrated) amplifier and large floor standing 'speakers, the sound of voices in particular was a little strange, whether due to frequency response abnormalities or phase problems (or both). I decided (can't remember the reasoning) that a second (integrated) amplifier might help. So I wired one integrated so that one of its channels fed the bass/mid range units (MTM) and one channel fed the tweeter. The amplifier was (obviously) wired the same. Cable to the bass/mid range was thick-ish copper multistrand, the tweeter was silver plated multistrand. Result, sound on natural voice sounded, well, natural. Bass was better (firmer, less smear) mid band clearer and top end very smooth sounding. All better than before! Both amplifiers (exactly the same) are controlled remotely, which means the volume control acts as a balance control as well. It works so well for me, I have decided that my other systems will be similar, although components are different.
 
Well I wouldn't call that biwiring and would call the biamping.

Bi wiring is the bizzare practice of taking two set of speaker cables from the left and right of an amp and wiring them to the tweeter and bass of each speaker. (Well thats my understanding)
 


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