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Avondale SE200 Announcement on FB

OzBrit Audio said:
Can I ask what you had in place before you upgraded R28 to foils?
I've got a vishy/dale low noise for R28 at the moment. I will change R11 to the same but wondering how much difference the foils will make for the cost?
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I started with FRM4 1% but with the foils theres more detail, more information getting through. delicately and finesse as the lady of of the house said everything has more ‘texture’ more life like. For me in my system its a no brainier as I hear the musicality.

As to the cost, I justify it to myself by remembering I have bought matched jfets pairs from the DIY audio store in the USA and cost near £50 by the time they where pushed through my letter box here in the UK, Non available else where at the time.

If you do go for it be aware their a bugger to work with and easily damaged with excess heat, you need to use a clip of sorts on the legs above the PCB to wick the heat away when soldering.
 
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laverda said:
I
If you do go for it be aware their a bugger to work with and easily damaged with excess heat, you need to use a clip of sorts on the legs above the PCB to wick the heat away when soldering.
Click to expand...
On a related note, does anyone know a sensibly priced source (or brand) for heatsink clips like this, just made from stamped out aluminium? The design looks straightforward, but they're quite expensive AND the shipping from Japan is obviously not cheap.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PR1KNS/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21
 
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bugbear said:
On a related note, does anyone know a sensibly priced source (or brand) for heatsink clips like this, just made from stamped out aluminium? The design looks straightforward, but they're quite expensive AND the shipping from Japan is obviously not cheap.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PR1KNS/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21
Click to expand...

A test lead crock clip is perfect as a heat sink and even leaves a nice gap between resistor body and PCB but you'll have to whip out the 220n thats in front of it to do it obviously. Solder the first leg move clip over to second leg and solder that one and trim. Get the 220n back in ASAP as this protects the Z Foil.

oSX2rBR29cY9G0bdRqN_piM7HKLRK8-d6QkclGGoegw7ZnkG3BIpHr6STsfngK-WPZOPymyjcxlO-IY3Iu6I8QHgLpUlCb-UCBehIheAAFgjAJcExt5nYJow4SoILaKgNMa0lKGIqIQCdH3W7odrniX9rfvHDGe7eKnPyCVC3PtaLJZXztMFOlz7Kt9xCsxes01xTUSILvgbZVpMnG9wTFTuFZU0pYvT2_sp0l_1tvE0Wli_7oLzlwnow70dQgnDqiD69a0mjzpdB_THUmirSw0XrbIHPW_-Kt4l68BHUAudvyWxb_hPVL7vnAsny4mrs-IVyhyhOyWhHwfJWV1LHxpjaJrwpnoduNhnK6PY-UdOF7IcsNsUwPGUM7UN3DwhIErsbZGUXV5VsacljSWaFb5-MOu6_qGTE-ulARIFw4fJh7sg98BMNymE6RuU6dCPzw-z6qHO5sYs8El1LRCpvP6qy1RU1awJLDDZZm5hD9D09kVjTzouHgIRvy2j5ElSEvYz-XbHz2H2K7L49NfKtnagxyBFdrOz-1qhpln2l464BkoHOV6v80Bx8r4zFfkuhrdLo22XNWMjwxtQlzMAem47A6PNYWeDVenSB7kzsEyj_x1wGZlaPCEIGRU-cXTlVvBVWQu7L7GkQQ9XL_nnRX_NA3-Gk6IggeW4Fz0jMJqFjE1j3fPBgC9EoDXnDqs0SFQO6Lx9X7mn9uiRgGWTxXLIyB49_2fzbGWd72twbx7OyWtnoEhGhkDRsPK69ELBH-NGIHDSz0I_7NlaJjG_ciDXXKwBzu_e2az4xxFOBNO0tC-cLahM79duHxeitOcjKjFYI-I19AMIPKuhlN4HHpJLPwJkzDUaXcis9SFVxo7zMq8w2zfTFt_w36qgdy0pRyHkwo79eLqGinC5O3eK5WAdGYweVlZsoSF3lkSbV0ci=w667-h889-no
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
laverda said:
I started with FRM4 1% but with the foils theres more detail, more information getting through. delicately and finesse as the lady of of the house said everything has more ‘texture’ more life like. For me in my system its a no brainier as I hear the musicality.

As to the cost, I justify it to myself by remembering I have bought matched jfets pairs from the DIY audio store in the USA and cost near £50 by the time they where pushed through my letter box here in the UK, Non available else where at the time.

If you do go for it be aware their a bugger to work with and easily damaged with excess heat, you need to use a clip of sorts on the legs above the PCB to wick the heat away when soldering.
Click to expand...
Great. I'm going to order some 15K foils and 560R low noise fishy/dales. The foils claim 10 times less noise than the low noise vishy/dales I'm using atm so will be interesting to hear what difference they make
For the miller cap did you use 120pf?
 
S-Man said:
Or, as recommended by Tony L, a set of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CND3GQ7/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21
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I actually own a set of those (both curved and straight) which are "generally handy". However the jaws are quite wide, and stainless steel is a lousy conductor of heat, compare to aluminium.

I also quite liked the look of Mueller toothless crocodile clips in pure copper - but I'd be worried about the solder sticking to them; let's face it, if solder didn't stick to copper we'd be in big trouble!

EDIT: I also have these generally-handy jewellers clamps/tweezers. Absurdly cheap!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017MP5CQM/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21
 
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OzBrit Audio said:
Great. I'm going to order some 15K foils and 560R low noise fishy/dales. The foils claim 10 times less noise than the low noise vishy/dales I'm using atm so will be interesting to hear what difference they make
For the miller cap did you use 120pf?
Click to expand...

I have used 68-120pf 100-500v Silver Mica, what ever I have in the bin but tend to stick with either 100-120pF. I've used 100pf 100v Wima films with no issues and much cheaper.
 
While I'm sure it's brilliant...and my last three amps have been Avondale....
I'm not sure it's going to "completely pan" a 500dr
 
Mynamemynaim said:
While I'm sure it's brilliant...and my last three amps have been Avondale....
I'm not sure it's going to "completely pan" a 500dr
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The only way to find out is to compare the two. Unlikely to happen for a while I think as the SE400 is hot off the press and there can't be that many 500DRs in circulation with owners who want to compare the two.
But going back to the original post 8.8k is a big sum for a power amp so it has to be something really special. Once you get to 5K there are some serious contenders in the commercial space (not thinking Naim here, very overpriced for their power amps, the Uniti range is a different story though. And the power amps in the Uniti I think are better in many ways to their standalone counterparts but that's a subject for another discussion).
Having said all that and having built up the SE200 (still auditioning here) I should imagine the SE400 is very good indeed. Would love to hear one in action. But I think the sweet spot will be the SE230 as having played around with dual output trannies I know what a difference that can make. Adding that to the sound signature of the SE200 plus a better front end should make these boards something special. All on a NAP size board, no need for voyager style dual supplies, delivering 120W I'm guessing will make this one the pick of the bunch. I am on a promise for some next year so will be able to report back whether I'm right or not here!
 
Mynamemynaim said:
While I'm sure it's brilliant...and my last three amps have been Avondale....
I'm not sure it's going to "completely pan" a 500dr
Click to expand...
Not heard a 500DR. I have however demoed a Vitus R101Mk2 (£15k) https://www.vitusaudio.com/products/ri-101-mk-ii/ against my Grad 1 and NCC300 monos. The Avondale kit was better to my ear. Not heard the SE400 with a full setup behind it, just off an old iPad, but it looks (and sounds) like it will beat the NCC300s. So beating a 500DR? Plausible I would say
 
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