A&R A60
- Thread starter bob atherton
- Start date
Operajulian
Julian
I am at operajulianATmycybernet.net
Operajulian
Julian
Posted to you....in the old Canada Post
Maxbertola
pfm Member
I've just sold mine and it seems a new A60 Renaissance is beginning... My usual perfect sense of timing.
M.
M.
keithsnaim
Gone Fishing
Just got a mint A60 off gumtree for £59. Originally went to get one in 1982 but came away with a 42/110. Now revisited and sounds really nice. I will live with it for a few weeks before I service it
Minstrel SE
These go to eleven
I havent heard the A60 but the little Alpha 1 is actually quite good. It has a much lower noise floor than the creek 4040 on first testing. It has a pleasant detailed warmish sound even if its not up there on PRAT
Quirky styling but its still working very well 25 years later and it looks well made inside. I think it was a good move by Arcam to get into the budget price area. Its certainly better than some of the cheaper convenience products available now.
My dad bought one and he hardly ever gets money out of his wallet
I do fancy an A60 and T21 but have been hoarding so much stuff that Im running out of room. I blame the internet and its probably time I put the past behind me and move on
actually just started to get an odd problem with my A60. After about 15 minutes of play I lose the right channel. The odd thing is using the selector switches to switch to another source (Tuner, Aux) returns the channel. I'm mostly listening to phono, so after I lose the right channel, if I select Aux, then select Phone again the channel returns.
Any thoughts ? I'm thinking that the source selectors may be getting a bit dirty. Blow some servisol followed by compressed air through them ?
Any thoughts ? I'm thinking that the source selectors may be getting a bit dirty. Blow some servisol followed by compressed air through them ?
rhgbristol
pfm Member
Check selector switches, and also nothing is shorting out on bottom of pcb onto earthed metal chassis beneath it.
I had similar problem on a second hand one I bought, where somebody had replaced the stick on feet pads with screw on ones and the screw protrusion was catching the bottom of the pcb under the switches shorting one channel to earth.
Good luck
Richard
I had similar problem on a second hand one I bought, where somebody had replaced the stick on feet pads with screw on ones and the screw protrusion was catching the bottom of the pcb under the switches shorting one channel to earth.
Good luck
Richard
HI,
I am Jacques (Im French, so apologize for my writing .) and I am new in pinkfish media forum. I had many English hifi gears (nytech, nexus, rega, proac and now naim).
Ive read many posts about A&R cambridge aA60 and T21. I found it very interesting as Ive just bought an a&r a60 and T21! (eight days ago) (A60 +, a late one)
First I was disappointing by the sound quality of the amplifier(very flat no bass no life) (my main system is a naim nap 250 with hicap preampcdx2 etc and proac response 1.5). I have just adjusted the voltage across the R63 to 8.5mv (it was very low 4,8 and 3 mv in a warm amplifier ?) and the sound is now wonderful ! I cant believe it. I think it is worth making an update of the capacitors as Robert (audiosmile) advises it.
I have a few questions if I may before I make an order at RS:
For the amplifier:
1- The main 2 big 10000 microf capacitors are 40v in my amplifier: should I get 50 or 63v (may be it is not important as far as the voltage is equal to 40 or higher, I am not specialised in electronics but I want to learn).
2- Is it worth buying film capacitors for every caps that will be changed in the amp ( as dowser suggests it in his thread on t21 recapping) ?
3 I noticed a difference in the sound level between the right and left channels at very low level of listening: the right one goes fist while the left one remain silent, then both become equal when I turn the volume knob a bit further (not sure that what I write make sense ). Any ideas to fix it? Does it come from the fact that there is a 6 mw difference beetwen the right and left loudspeakers output? (although the IQ is the same in both left and right channels?)
For the tuner: it works fine and seems more sophisticated inside, I think I wont dare making any change except the reservoir capacitors (easy) and maybe more.. BUT Ive noticed that the tuning knobs is whimsical : from time to time, when I turn, it all the red leds flash from one side to the other one ?? the 5 trims (at the back of the unit) for presets work fine.
1- What is the name of this kind of knob? Where could I buy a new one, it seems easy to replace.
2- if I change some caps in the tuner do I have to check and adjust the IQ (like in the amplifier? I noticed there are may trims pots on the motherboard). If yes how to proceed ?
Thank you +++ for sharing all your knowledge !
Jack
I am Jacques (Im French, so apologize for my writing .) and I am new in pinkfish media forum. I had many English hifi gears (nytech, nexus, rega, proac and now naim).
Ive read many posts about A&R cambridge aA60 and T21. I found it very interesting as Ive just bought an a&r a60 and T21! (eight days ago) (A60 +, a late one)
First I was disappointing by the sound quality of the amplifier(very flat no bass no life) (my main system is a naim nap 250 with hicap preampcdx2 etc and proac response 1.5). I have just adjusted the voltage across the R63 to 8.5mv (it was very low 4,8 and 3 mv in a warm amplifier ?) and the sound is now wonderful ! I cant believe it. I think it is worth making an update of the capacitors as Robert (audiosmile) advises it.
I have a few questions if I may before I make an order at RS:
For the amplifier:
1- The main 2 big 10000 microf capacitors are 40v in my amplifier: should I get 50 or 63v (may be it is not important as far as the voltage is equal to 40 or higher, I am not specialised in electronics but I want to learn).
2- Is it worth buying film capacitors for every caps that will be changed in the amp ( as dowser suggests it in his thread on t21 recapping) ?
3 I noticed a difference in the sound level between the right and left channels at very low level of listening: the right one goes fist while the left one remain silent, then both become equal when I turn the volume knob a bit further (not sure that what I write make sense ). Any ideas to fix it? Does it come from the fact that there is a 6 mw difference beetwen the right and left loudspeakers output? (although the IQ is the same in both left and right channels?)
For the tuner: it works fine and seems more sophisticated inside, I think I wont dare making any change except the reservoir capacitors (easy) and maybe more.. BUT Ive noticed that the tuning knobs is whimsical : from time to time, when I turn, it all the red leds flash from one side to the other one ?? the 5 trims (at the back of the unit) for presets work fine.
1- What is the name of this kind of knob? Where could I buy a new one, it seems easy to replace.
2- if I change some caps in the tuner do I have to check and adjust the IQ (like in the amplifier? I noticed there are may trims pots on the motherboard). If yes how to proceed ?
Thank you +++ for sharing all your knowledge !
Jack
Radfordman
pfm Member
Hi Jacques, your English is very good, I wish I could write French the way you do English.
Just taking your point No. 3, seems like the volume control potentiometer may need replacing. Might be worth cleaning it with some switch cleaner/ lubricant. Servisol is good.
You are likely to get this imbalance of channels at low listening levels if the input to the amp is rather too high. For example a high output CD player.
Just taking your point No. 3, seems like the volume control potentiometer may need replacing. Might be worth cleaning it with some switch cleaner/ lubricant. Servisol is good.
You are likely to get this imbalance of channels at low listening levels if the input to the amp is rather too high. For example a high output CD player.
Radfordman
pfm Member
Point about the tuner, be very careful touching FM tuners, unless one has the knowledge and test equipment, best left alone if working OK. It is easy to put the tuner out of alignment, and can be costly to correct.
Radfordman
pfm Member
Point no 1, 50 or 63 Volt capacitors should be fine, obviously, check that the physical size is OK.
Radfordman
pfm Member
A quick A60 / T21 question...
I have a stunning 1984 walnut A60 similar to the top one in the above link (without the bolt around the headphone socket and with the red light behind the fascia) and it clearly has a different (lighter, less shiny black?) fascia to the other two pictured and the earlier T21 I had a while ago.
Will later T21s have the same fascia as my A60? If so, any ideas on year / serial number when these started? A subtle difference, I know, but it'd be good to have a matching pair.
Thanks,
Alex
Radfordman
pfm Member
I can only guess that later T21's will match later A60's in view of front panel finish. I don't have a T21.
Even the knobs on the thee A60's in my link are all different.
rhgbristol
pfm Member
Yes the later a60s and t21s used fascias of matt plastic over the alloy extrusion whereas the early ones were painted alloy.
Probably saving production costs no doubt.
From my collection of units the change seems to have occurred between about 1983 and 1985.
Probably saving production costs no doubt.
From my collection of units the change seems to have occurred between about 1983 and 1985.
Thanks both.
The fascia on my A60 is completely flawless, so it's a pretty durable finish, regardless of cost. I wasn't even sure if T21 production continued until 1984, and it's good to know there's some later ones around like my A60.
Probably worth me emailing Arcam to see if they know the serial number for the change to the later version. Failing that, if anyone here has a couple of 80s T21s with the two different fascias that might help narrow it down. (No hurry, as I'm in no rush to buy.) Tks.
The fascia on my A60 is completely flawless, so it's a pretty durable finish, regardless of cost. I wasn't even sure if T21 production continued until 1984, and it's good to know there's some later ones around like my A60.
Probably worth me emailing Arcam to see if they know the serial number for the change to the later version. Failing that, if anyone here has a couple of 80s T21s with the two different fascias that might help narrow it down. (No hurry, as I'm in no rush to buy.) Tks.
rhgbristol
pfm Member
The t21 was definately made after 1984/5 - i remember buying a brand new one in late 1986. It had the later style semi matt pvc fascia, and black ash sleeve.
It matched perfectly my a60 which was also bought brand new in circa late 1985.
I have a couple of t21s at present, which i might move on imminently.
From memory they have what i call the later style fascias, but different wooden sleeves.
Pm me if you are interested.
Also have three a60s of different vintage from 1981 to 1986 again with different sleeve finishes
It matched perfectly my a60 which was also bought brand new in circa late 1985.
I have a couple of t21s at present, which i might move on imminently.
From memory they have what i call the later style fascias, but different wooden sleeves.
Pm me if you are interested.
Also have three a60s of different vintage from 1981 to 1986 again with different sleeve finishes
Hi everybody,
I've just finished recapping my A60, thanks to your advises and I've spent a wonderful time doing it (for the first time): it's now playing with my naim cdx2 and proac response 1.5 and it is simply incredible, the sound is really improved (bass, clarity, details).
Above all I'm pleased that it still works and didn't burn...
I've changed all the caps (exept phono preamp) and I followed Robert's (audio smile) thread.
I didn't change the 2 voltage regulators because I found them very small with very narrow space between their 3 "legs". Is there a special way to avoid " solder joints" between them?? Thks
Jack
I've just finished recapping my A60, thanks to your advises and I've spent a wonderful time doing it (for the first time): it's now playing with my naim cdx2 and proac response 1.5 and it is simply incredible, the sound is really improved (bass, clarity, details).
Above all I'm pleased that it still works and didn't burn...
I've changed all the caps (exept phono preamp) and I followed Robert's (audio smile) thread.
I didn't change the 2 voltage regulators because I found them very small with very narrow space between their 3 "legs". Is there a special way to avoid " solder joints" between them?? Thks
Jack