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A&R A60

Have put an interest check up for an a60 cartridge loading module
Circuit board is printed "ULM60 issue 1"
Would like it to go to a good home.
Don't have instructions but maybe someone can help with that. 5 switches.
Am missing the A60 already...
 
I have a 15000 serial no. with the loading module and the AP outputs. would be interested in it to see if it makes any difference.

I have a lenco into the A60 and sounds great.
 
Hi All,
First of all a HUUUGGEE thankyou to Robert & ALL those who have contributed to this thread. I have learnt so much about how things work, & not just the very aesthetically pleasing A60.
I have just bought my first, unworking example. Assembled under liscence in New Zealand A60/E1320 (with A60 1320 on the PCB 26/5/83). But on the inside on the MAG P.U. phono stage it has the much later IC1 & IC101 chips.
My first question (of which I am sure there will be many) is it is missing the white bridge plug for the M.C. Option. Can anyone tell me which pins to "bridge"?
Cheers
Tony
 
I have a spare one in my bag of various bits and bobs.

Looking from the front to the back of the amp.
Count the pins from left to right.

Pins 3 & 5 are shorted.
Pins 4 & 6 are shorted.

( There are eight pins in total )

Hope that helps.

Julian
 
Thanks Julian.
As you are one of the "fonts of all knowledge", any guesses as to why it's been removed? There are some odd mismatched case screws, but inside it looks just like the day it was born. Has someone just been tinkering and forgotten to put it back. I'm assuming of course, it needs to be there, for "normal" operation.
After this I get into the really exciting stuff of doing (drum roll) THE REBUILD, combining your Excel from #271, Roberts, the SM, & all the helpful little bits from this thread.
That's apart from the first opening, & finding both speaker fuses blown! Haven't tried to power it up yet.
I haven't heard of anyone in this thread using a "dim bulb tester". Not used?
Again many thanks.
 
The bulb in series with the mains is essential if the speaker fuses are gone. It's all too likely that the output transistors are shorted.
 
After this I get into the really exciting stuff of doing (drum roll) THE REBUILD, combining your Excel from #271, Roberts, the SM, & all the helpful little bits from this thread.
Remember that Operajulian's list of part is applicable to his revision of the A60 and may not be to yours. Take the values from the service manual diagrams relevant to your version and use the various posts as brand/replacement type rather than value guides.
 
Best to get it going "as is" before making mods. You need a known working unit as a basis so that any problems are due to your changes only.
 
Remember that Operajulian's list of part is applicable to his revision of the A60 and may not be to yours. Take the values from the service manual diagrams relevant to your version and use the various posts as brand/replacement type rather than value guides.
Correct.
It took a little while to work out that my serial #1320 (which should be very early) is a "middle" version in the 13250 - 19999 series?!
I wanted to post a photo, but the posting rules say I "may not post attachments"
 
Yes - my spreadsheet was done with one of the later series in mind but since then I have done similar upgrade/replacements with seven A60 through the ages and have another two waiting for my attention....

So like Robert's guide in the reference section- use it wisely as a "guide".

I did get one A60 without the linking plug - I suspect that someone had a MC60 card in it's place, lost the the link and then sold the MC card separately.

I did find that you don't need the link IF you are not planning to use the phonostage. The aux/tuner/tape seems to work as inputs without it but perhaps others on the forum have a different experience.

Just bought some tant capacitors to try on the T21 to see if that helps with the drifting tuning as suggested on other threads.

Have fun and good listening.

Julian
 
...

Just bought some tant capacitors to try on the T21 to see if that helps with the drifting tuning as suggested on other threads.

Have fun and good listening.

Julian

My T21 is still locking solidly from cold after swapping out the tant...hopefully same for you :)

Richard
 
Now that Stargets are getting scarce, what would be the best alternative? The RS website auto-suggests the Panasonic M series, but are there other choices?

Also I have a very old A60 with one faulty channel (15VDC on it.) I'm going to replace the output and driver transistors, but this is a model which uses BFR39/79. Would it be OK to use the ZTX653/753 as A&R did (with slight changes) on later serial numbers?
 
Thanks for the reassurance. I replaced the four BFR39s with 653s today as I was pretty sure that one of them was causing the fault. That has brought the DC offset down from 15V to 9mV! I'll put the 753s in tomorrow and adjust properly. Then go for the full refurb...
 
First post and resurrecting an old thread. I bought an A60 and T21 at an auction a few months ago not really knowing what I was buying. As you all would guess I was very happy when I tried out my purchase as I have a functioning and beautiful amp and tuner. I was so enamoured by the sound and look of these machines that I bought a second set on ebay at the weekend.

Below are pictures of the system that I bought on ebay.

t9uolc.jpg

ogl3ds.jpg

2j198pe.jpg

2chrxqt.jpg

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From the discussions here on the thread I can see that my new purchases are `pretty early models, the other system I have are in the 7000 . Have any of you suggestions as to what upgrades I should undertake to get the best out of the two machines. I might add that I have zero knowledge of electronics so I might need to send these to get serviced and or repaired.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 


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