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Technics 50th Anni SL-1200 Mk7

It’s gone oddly quiet….

Vinyl Engine should have most of this information. As I understand it most arms were Stevenson geometry until somewhere in the mid to late 70s where mass consensus flipped to Baerwald. Whether it was new at that time I don’t know. That wasn’t universal though, e.g. the very much 1980s Rega RBxxx range of arms are Stevenson, or very close to it.

It is actually far more simple IMO, if you align a cartridge correctly with the protractor or overhang gauge that came with the arm you are done. Really no need to overthink it from that point. That doesn’t mean a whole market has grown up doing just that though!

PS I’m annoyed Technics cheaped-out and no longer supply the overhang gauge with the SL1200. I’ll have to buy one in case I ever use my bright yellow Mk7. By saying that it’s easy enough to measure it with a ruler! Annoying though, that gauge was a clever little thing that makes it incredibly easy to get it right. It must only cost them pennies so why they stopped doing it I’ve no idea.
 
Maybe the trend is towards the 'package buyer', and the fitted 'Zanadu pink' never gets replaced until it dies?

I suppose most ageing audiofools have protractors :)
 
It is actually far more simple IMO, if you align a cartridge correctly with the protractor or overhang gauge that came with the arm you are done. Really no need to overthink it from that point. That doesn’t mean a whole market has grown up doing just that though!
Doesn’t that depend on the spindle to pivot distance being correct as per the instructions of the arm manufacturer? No guarantees there unless it’s a package deal like Technics or Rega.
 
Vinyl Engine should have most of this information. As I understand it most arms were Stevenson geometry until somewhere in the mid to late 70s where mass consensus flipped to Baerwald. Whether it was new at that time I don’t know. That wasn’t universal though, e.g. the very much 1980s Rega RBxxx range of arms are Stevenson, or very close to it.

It is actually far more simple IMO, if you align a cartridge correctly with the protractor or overhang gauge that came with the arm you are done. Really no need to overthink it from that point. That doesn’t mean a whole market has grown up doing just that though!

PS I’m annoyed Technics cheaped-out and no longer supply the overhang gauge with the SL1200. I’ll have to buy one in case I ever use my bright yellow Mk7. By saying that it’s easy enough to measure it with a ruler! Annoying though, that gauge was a clever little thing that makes it incredibly easy to get it right. It must only cost them pennies so why they stopped doing it I’ve no idea.

Well, I used a tape measure, thought it was correct but was actually still about 2mm out. That little tool made all the difference - quite literally fool proof.
 
Doesn’t that depend on the spindle to pivot distance being correct as per the instructions of the arm manufacturer? No guarantees there unless it’s a package deal like Technics or Rega.

Yes, absolutely, and this is a huge issue with decks with a very variable armboard position such as an LP12, TD-150 etc. Unless you have confirmed pivot to spindle distance alignment using a two-point Baerwald or whatever protractor is largely futile. Linn dealers fitting Linn arms should use a specific tool called IIRC a ‘Kinkey’ which physically aligns the arm-base to the centre spindle. FWIW I’ve seen Linn dealers fit arms without going near one nor use any ruler or other measurement! A reason I always do these things myself.

One of the reasons I really like SME arms is even though their sliding base system can on paper result in some error as the pivot to spindle distance becomes a variable it does remove a lot of the hassle in precisely mounting an arm and I’m sure results in very low error in the overwhelming majority of installations.
 
PS I’m annoyed Technics cheaped-out and no longer supply the overhang gauge with the SL1200. I’ll have to buy one in case I ever use my bright yellow Mk7. By saying that it’s easy enough to measure it with a ruler! Annoying though, that gauge was a clever little thing that makes it incredibly easy to get it right. It must only cost them pennies so why they stopped doing it I’ve no idea.

It's still supplied with the 1200G and I think the GR too. Quite why it's not included with the Mk7 is a mystery!
 
I am not sure if I understand this. If you've used the protractor and have been able to align the stylus correctly at the "null" points, then it should be fine regardless of the pivot to spindle distance, no? I am thinking it would matter only if the pivot to spindle distance is so far off that it is impossible to align the stylus correctly.

Yes, absolutely, and this is a huge issue with decks with a very variable armboard position such as an LP12, TD-150 etc. Unless you have confirmed pivot to spindle distance alignment using a two-point Baerwald or whatever protractor is largely futile. Linn dealers fitting Linn arms should use a specific tool called IIRC a ‘Kinkey’ which physically aligns the arm-base to the centre spindle. FWIW I’ve seen Linn dealers fit arms without going near one nor use any ruler or other measurement! A reason I always do these things myself.

One of the reasons I really like SME arms is even though their sliding base system can on paper result in some error as the pivot to spindle distance becomes a variable it does remove a lot of the hassle in precisely mounting an arm and I’m sure results in very low error in the overwhelming majority of installations.
 
I am thinking it would matter only if the pivot to spindle distance is so far off that it is impossible to align the stylus correctly.

Yes, the question is what that number actually is. That I don’t know and I suspect will vary depending who you ask. There would come a point where twisting the cart in the shell wouldn’t compensate as the geometry was now just too far out. This argument stands for SME arms too if one were to find a real outlier of a cartridge with a tip to mounting lug figure well outside of the normal range. The reason I like SME’s sliding base is given a normal cart you don’t need to be precise in mounting the arm to the deck at all as it is corrected later at the cartridge alignment stage.

The thing that annoys me about the whole thing is the lack of standards. The tip to mounting lug distance should have been formally nailed-down back in 1958 with the introduction of the stereo record. That done any correctly mounted arm would be fine with two holes for the cart mounting. Effectively pre-aligned by design. Naim tried this with the Aro which assuming the dealer had used the Linn key to align the armboard on the subchassis meant the Linn cartridges of the time could simply be bolted into the headshell for correct alignment. Same with a three-bolt Rega cart in a Rega arm factory mounted on a Rega deck, or an Ortofon Concord on a Technics SL1200. Sadly it all falls apart when other variables are added.
 

No, mine is sleeping safely in its box in the spare bedroom! If the description is accurate it is useful to know only 40 yellow ones in the UK. That’s a pretty good limited edition!

PS Impossible to guess a price yet as I don’t think any have gone through a free auction yet. My suspicion is if a sealed one started with an opening bid of £1 it would end somewhere between £1400 and £1800, i.e. a very nice return on the investment, but way less than is being asked here.
 
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They probably never expected the buyers to actually open the boxes ;)

I have openend my Black MK7L, looks stunning, sounds good too.
These decks grow on me.

20220407130140_Technics-SL-1200-series-50th-anniversary-Angle-TWeb.jpg
 
Nope
Don't hold your breath

I've seen quite a lot of info about the build quality differences between the Mk7 and the GR but not much about how they differ sound wise.
 
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I've seen quite a lot of info about the build quality differences between the Mk7 and the GR but not much about how they differ sound wise.

I believe your right.
The build quality differences is obvious but in no way to disparage a MK7/MK7L
It sounds great and seem to be build to last.
 


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