advertisement


Buqqer........Numerik just died

suzywong said:
David's Slimline having arrived :), I've started to look at the replacement activity. I've taken out the old SMPS and opened it up. These look a bit fried:

.

Edit 2: Powered up the Numerik using the Slimline, sat alongside. All works.
Click to expand...

I had no doubt it’d work, but it’s still goo to hear that it’s working again. As a bonus, it should sound a little better too!
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
PS, I just found a dead round brilliant in my garage, the primary side is totally screwed but the secondary side looks okay... I might be able to make a good one out of the two if they’re both of the same revision. I thought I’d thrown it out a few months ago!
Click to expand...

Well if you fancy a play then I'm happy to send you the remains of mine. I don't think I'll be needing it.

Put it to one side for today. Got some Jewellers saws on the way from Amazon, so I'll see how they work as to whether I modify the case to fit the new inlet, or modify the wiring and use the old Inlet - undecided at the moment. I can now fit the front panel switch.

I also need to get a "top hat" insulator bush for the 337 reg - it's somewhat distorted and I'd prefer not to short out the heatsink :).
 
Update: the Numerik lives! Slimline installed. In the end retained the original IEC socket, but moved the RFI filer caps across.

Thanks to David & Simon for help and assistance, and I’ll get the old Brilliant posted in the next day or so.
 
suzywong said:
Update: the Numerik lives! Slimline installed. In the end retained the original IEC socket, but moved the RFI filer caps across.

Thanks to David & Simon for help and assistance, and I’ll get the old Brilliant posted in the next day or so.
Click to expand...
That’s Brilliant news (pun semi intended), I thought that might be the best way forward, fitting the new IEC socket involves a fair bit of metalwork, I’ve done it, much easier with a Dremel fitted with a grinding disc, need to totally gut the bottom case out though otherwise the swarf would get where you don’t want it.

And thank you for sending the dead PSU, I just might be able to replace the burned PCB with a non burned one I have.:)
 
Hi Guys, I know this is an old posting, but I have a similar problem to Suzywong. My Numerik's pressure cooker PSU has finally died. I've replaced a few capacitors over the years and managed to keep it going but it's very dead this time. I have an unused slimline I would like to use as replacement and your posts have cleared up a few issues, but one remains that I'm unsure about. The Slimline's Molex that connects to the board is much smaller than the one on the pressure cooker. Is there an easier way to solve that problem without laboriously cutting off the small Molex from the Slimline and splicing the wires to the harness removed from the pressure cooker? It seems a bit Heath Robinson to do it that way. I'm a bit out of the loop with modern electrical practices, but you guys obviously know your stuff, so any help would be much appreciated.
 
Hmmm, I don’t recall having to modify the Molex. IIRC the Slimline I bought from David actually had an additional supply rail that was not connected/unused/spare pin in my Numerik.

Have you got the schematic for the Numerik?
 
capelyddol said:
Hi Guys, I know this is an old posting, but I have a similar problem to Suzywong. My Numerik's pressure cooker PSU has finally died. I've replaced a few capacitors over the years and managed to keep it going but it's very dead this time. I have an unused slimline I would like to use as replacement and your posts have cleared up a few issues, but one remains that I'm unsure about. The Slimline's Molex that connects to the board is much smaller than the one on the pressure cooker. Is there an easier way to solve that problem without laboriously cutting off the small Molex from the Slimline and splicing the wires to the harness removed from the pressure cooker? It seems a bit Heath Robinson to do it that way. I'm a bit out of the loop with modern electrical practices, but you guys obviously know your stuff, so any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...
The loom on the slimline PSU has a header plug on both ends, in products sure as the Numerik, Karik, Kairn and Wakonda, it was fitted with a loom which had the Molex plug you describe on the end that connects to the main board. I would contact Linn and ask if they have any available because it’s really as simple as opening up the Slimline PSU and swapping the loom. Physically fitting it in will be the biggest challenge, models fitted with the round brilliant from new had the power switch mounted on a board by the power inlet with a plastic extension running to the front panel, you’re probably going to have to get creative with a mounting, a bracket fitted through the original bolt hole is the easiest solution, but it’s a DIY job… and if you want to retain the voltage selection, you’re going to have to move the switch to the front and make a mounting for it, and get cutting at the back to fit the IEC inlet with the voltage selection barrel, the round brilliant is auto ranging so products supplied with it have no voltage selection switch. None of this is a major hurdle if you’re okay with DIY/basic metalwork… and basic electronics of course. Having the right tools to hand helps. Linn just replaced the whole case if they were replacing a round brilliant with a slimline, but we don’t have that luxury… unless they have any unused cases knocking about, it’s worth an ask, catch the right person on the right day and they can be pretty helpful.
 
suzywong said:
Hmmm, I don’t recall having to modify the Molex. IIRC the Slimline I bought from David actually had an additional supply rail that was not connected/unused/spare pin in my Numerik.

Have you got the schematic for the Numerik?
Click to expand...
Yep, that’s right, the slimline has two separate split rail outputs whereas the round has one split rail 24-0-24 and a single 10v rail, fully isolated from the split rail supply. Older products just use the ground and + of the second split rail… I think the output voltage is slightly more than 10v but the onboard regulation takes care of that with no issues.

PS, I managed to make a good round brilliant out of yours and mine, my primary side board was carbonised, but the secondary was mint, and your primary side was mint but the secondary carbonised. I fully serviced both “good” sides, fitted some higher wattage resistors and stood them off the board, and it’s currently in my Numerik doing TV duties (really good sounding TV), I’m listening to it as I write this.

I actually think the round brilliant is worth retaining if it’s in a fixable state, you just need to do a few bits to fix the reliability issues. The biggest killer is heat, electrically it’s a pretty solid design using good, industry standard parts, but some parts are run close to the limits, too physically close to the board in a little metal can with no airflow. I have a couple of units in daily use with the round brilliant and I’ve no concerns about reliability.
 
I think I can manage fitting the slimline into the case. The instructions here are quite specific. My problem is still the different sizes of plug. The one on the slimline's loom is very much smaller then the one from the brilliant. I've tried to post a photo but it won't allow me to. Presumably Linn must have changed to a smaller plug/socket combination at some point. My slimline is ser no:696134, which I'm guessing is one of the later ones. Numerik is 3271, 1994.
Do you guys have any opinion on removing the wires from the plug and hard-soldering them to the pins in the Numerik?
 
Well, David, I guess if I did that it would certainly lower the value, but right now I can't think of an alternative. Linnfomaniac83 suggested contacting Linn to see if they had any of the old harnesses, but I can't imagine they would have after all this time.
 
capelyddol said:
I think I can manage fitting the slimline into the case. The instructions here are quite specific. My problem is still the different sizes of plug. The one on the slimline's loom is very much smaller then the one from the brilliant. I've tried to post a photo but it won't allow me to. Presumably Linn must have changed to a smaller plug/socket combination at some point. My slimline is ser no:696134, which I'm guessing is one of the later ones. Numerik is 3271, 1994.
Do you guys have any opinion on removing the wires from the plug and hard-soldering them to the pins in the Numerik?
Click to expand...
I did explain above that the loom/harness can be changed on the slimline to suit the product it’s fitted to, you open the slimline up and jump change the harness. If you speak to linn, they may have some left in stock, that way, you can just plug the slimline straight into the board. They never changed the connector on the main board of the Numerik in it’s lifetime. The connection between the slimline and the main board is the easy part though. Physically fitting it and sorting out the mains side is the trickier job.
 
capelyddol said:
Well, David, I guess if I did that it would certainly lower the value, but right now I can't think of an alternative. Linnfomaniac83 suggested contacting Linn to see if they had any of the old harnesses, but I can't imagine they would have after all this time.
Click to expand...
You might be surprised, you’ll never know without asking. As David suggests, you could also make one up.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top