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Buqqer........Numerik just died

suzywong

Wot, no electrons?
So it is a nice sunny Saturday on the south coast, so I fired up the Briks system in the conservatory, streaming some prog from Morow Radio.

Just enjoying some Marillion, when.........silence and a funny smell. Noticed the Numerik power light had gone out. Checked that rest of system is OK by using the Kudos FM tuner.

First job is to get a working system back up, I had had the Karik CDP and RPi streamer both running digital streams into the Numerik, but by running the Karik’s analogue outputs straight into the Kairn, and pressing into service an old Musical Fidelity V-DAC for the streamer, we at least have a working system.

And so to the Numerik.........fuses OK, smell of burning from the area of the PSU block, but no scorch marks on the PCB.

Edit: took the cover off the PSU block and it's pretty obvious.....the scotch marks on the pcb are a bit of a give-away.

I don’t suppose that Linn will have anything to to with stuff that old.

Anybody got a spare Linn U25W SMPS they don't need?

Bummer, and it was such a lovely morning as well....
 
So it is a nice sunny Saturday on the south coast, so I fired up the Briks system in the conservatory, streaming some prog from Morow Radio.

Just enjoying some Marillion, when.........silence and a funny smell. Noticed the Numerik power light had gone out. Checked that rest of system is OK by using the Kudos FM tuner.

First job is to get a working system back up, I had had the Karik CDP and RPi streamer both running digital streams into the Numerik, but by running the Karik’s analogue outputs straight into the Kairn, and pressing into service an old Musical Fidelity V-DAC for the streamer, we at least have a working system.

And so to the Numerik.........fuses OK, smell of burning from the area of the PSU block, but no scorch marks on the PCB.

Edit: took the cover off the PSU block and it's pretty obvious.....the scotch marks on the pcb are a bit of a give-away.

I don’t suppose that Linn will have anything to to with stuff that old.

Anybody got a spare Linn U25W SMPS they don't need?

Bummer, and it was such a lovely morning as well....
Do you have any pictures? I’ll do my best to advise and help you revive your Numerik, it can be fixed one way or another.
 
Hi Linnfo,

I don't think I can post photos here coz I don't have online photobucket-like storage. Do you know if I can upload photos to PM?

Having got the lid off the PSU, and the insulator below it there appears to have been a bit of an explosion in the region of D12 & C4
 
I have a slimline in good condition (£150) if you want an upgrade though youll have to drill the side of the case to fit it.

Hi David, It may well come to that - don't let it go to anybody else :D

Drilling is not a problem. I presume that's what Linn did with my Kairn when they repaired it with the Slimline about ten years ago

Do the primary IP and secondary OP use the same connectors as the big round jobbie?
 
I don't think I can post photos here coz I don't have online photobucket-like storage. Do you know if I can upload photos to PM?

If you create an account at postimage.org you can upload to and link from there for free. Choose the hotlink for forums and just paste it into the text of your message, not as a hyperlink.
 
Hi David, It may well come to that - don't let it go to anybody else :D

Drilling is not a problem. I presume that's what Linn did with my Kairn when they repaired it with the Slimline about ten years ago

Do the primary IP and secondary OP use the same connectors as the big round jobbie?

The secondary output is identical and it would come with a new power input connector and wiring loom. So a fairly straightforward swap.

There’s a good chance you May be able to fix the old one though.
 
The secondary output is identical and it would come with a new power input connector and wiring loom. So a fairly straightforward swap.
There’s a good chance you May be able to fix the old one though.

Straightforward swaps I can do .

Trouble with PCBs thse days is it's all surface mount, and at age 66, I can hardly see the damn things, let along solder to them (bring back RLR05s :D). The guys in the clean rooms at work have binocular microscopes; all I have is a magnifying glass!

Anyway back to the photos. It looks a bit of a mess, but I think the debris is fibre from the PEC itself.
 
Unfortunately charred pcb damage is difficult to repair as you need to remove the damaged pcb entirely as it’s conductive.

epoxy glue can work to replace the damaged board to a point.
 
Hi David, It may well come to that - don't let it go to anybody else :D

Drilling is not a problem. I presume that's what Linn did with my Kairn when they repaired it with the Slimline about ten years ago

Do the primary IP and secondary OP use the same connectors as the big round jobbie?
No, they don’t, but I think I have a spare harness here if you need it.
 
Unfortunately charred pcb damage is difficult to repair as you need to remove the damaged pcb entirely as it’s conductive.

epoxy glue can work to replace the damaged board to a point.
It’d be a challenging repair for sure, I think that slimline you have would be the easiest repair, the rear of the case might need some filing to fit the IEC/fuse/voltage selector block, but that’s no biggie. That aside, it’s pretty plain sailing.
 
That's what was worrying me. The PCB does appear to be breaking up.

Interesting photo of the slimline. It loses the input filter and the mechanical linkage from front panel button to the on/off switch. Seems to me that I need to take the slimline off your hands, David. :)

Edit: you sent you a PM.

C
 
Well, I'll be b*******!

Thanks to deebster for the instructions :)




Blimey, I’ve not seen one do that before, if I’m honest, I’d have to get a bit Heath Robinson on that... ie, cutting traces, attaching bodge wires and running them to components glued down elsewhere. You could dig the charred bit of board out but that would leave you nowhere to mount the components located on the charred bit of the board... so you’d still have to bodge and stick them elsewhere.
 
It’d be a challenging repair for sure, I think that slimline you have would be the easiest repair, the rear of the case might need some filing to fit the IEC/fuse/voltage selector block, but that’s no biggie. That aside, it’s pretty plain sailing.

Well, I've got to do something in my retirement and hey...hardware to play with!
 


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