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Buqqer........Numerik just died

suzywong said:
That's what was worrying me. The PCB does appear to be breaking up.

Interesting photo of the slimline. It loses the input filter and the mechanical linkage from front panel button to the on/off switch. Seems to me that I need to take the slimline off your hands, David. :)

Edit: you sent you a PM.

C
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If the switch is located at the back, next to the IEC inlet on your unit, you’ll have to fashion a mounting plate for the switch in the slimline harness. It’s doable, I’ve done it before.
 
Looking at David's photo the harness does appear to long enough to reach the front. If not, then I'll just make it longer. :)
 
suzywong said:
Looking at David's photo the harness does appear to long enough to reach the front. If not, then I'll just make it longer. :)
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It should be, but if not, then that is an option. You will have to get inventive to make it fit, Linn used to replace the case work with the power supply (one of the reasons it was expensive as an upgrade option), it’s doable though.
 
Probably worth opening up my Kairn* to see what they did when its "round" Brilliant died and was replaced by the Slimline under their "fixed price" repair scheme, at about half the then cost of the "upgrade".

In any event, I can fiddle with the Primary side connectivity, even if it means getting the soldering iron out.

*and a good excuse to check on the battery!
 
suzywong said:
Probably worth opening up my Kairn to see what they did when its "round" Brilliant died and was replaced by the Slimline under their "fixed price" repair scheme, at about half the then cost of the "upgrade".

In any event, I can fiddle with the Primary side connectivity, even if it means getting the soldering iron out.
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They’ll have replaced the bottom case and probably the lid too.
 
Looking at the photos I'd say the board doesn't look too bad to me. You've got local pads to connect to if the tracks are damaged and if it's through plated just check the other side and link appropriately. The problem may be obtaining the capacitor value. I would have thought someone at Linn could help you with that.
 
I think I’d cleaned it up a bit by then :D.

Anyway David & I “have an accord” (Pirates of the Caribbean, wasn’t it :D ) and I will return to this topic later in the week......after I’ve mowed the lawns and relaid the pave of the drive. ( by order of She-who-must-be-obeyed)
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
They’ll have replaced the bottom case and probably the lid too.
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Must admit that, overall, the case of the returned Kairn did not look as though it had been replaced...I recognised those scratches, but it did have the larger mains inlet so I presume that the cover would have needed to be changed, and hey, it worked! So everything else was a bonus. :)

anyway, will return to this later in the week.

cheers!
 
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there is a numerik on audioWoof for £370, don't know if this is a good price or not, but if it cannot be repaired its an option i guess, or a karik and numerik for £550, on hifi forsale ,and then sell your extra box, and someone might buy your numerik for spares,
 
Did you get it done on Linn’s fixed price repair (around £140 for my Kairn) or did you pay.the full whack for the “upgrade“ (£400 IIRC).
 
Wolfmancatsup said:
That’s what Linn did with my Kremlin when its round ‘Brilliant’ supply died. The case and fascia were both replaced.

Mick
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I can’t speak for every unit but this is what I’ve seen when products with the “round brilliant” have been upgraded/repaired with a “slimline brilliant”, there may be some variation but many of the products made with the round brilliant had the power switch on a small PCB at the rear of the case with a mechanical linkage going to the front panel. The slimline brilliant needs to be mounted to the side of the case in a Kairn, Kremlin or Numerik because there isn’t any room to mount it to the bottom, it’s all filled by the main PCB... but when mounting it to the side of the case, the mechanical linkage is in the way, so the switch needs to be mounted behind the front panel. You can modify the case for this but for Linn, it would’ve been easier to just replace the bottom case... if you got a new front panel, that’s a bonus.

PS, on units with the round brilliant, there’s a metal plate the shields the power inlet/power switch board, the is can be cut off and the stuck down with some strong 2 pack epoxy to create a mounting plate for the new power switch when fitting a slimline PSU.
 
Hrump, didn't get a sparkly finish on my Kairn!

The mains socket on the back panel is different as well, so if I use the new one then I'll have to cut a bigger hole in the back panel and take a chunk out of the rear flange of the cover.

Opened up the Kairn this morning and had a look, so I've got some ideas now.

But the first thing is to just plug in the new PSU and check that the rest of the unit is OK.
 
suzywong said:
Hrump, didn't get a sparkly finish on my Kairn!

The mains socket on the back panel is different as well, so if I use the new one then I'll have to cut a bigger hole in the back panel and take a chunk out of the rear flange of the cover.

Opened up the Kairn this morning and had a look, so I've got some ideas now.

But the first thing is to just plug in the new PSU and check that the rest of the unit is OK.
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Yes, but the voltage selector is on that rear IEC inlet. I think the switch is open when set to 240v but do check. If this is the case, you can probably work around having to change the IEC inlet. You’ll still need to do something about the power switch though.
 
David's Slimline having arrived :), I've started to look at the replacement activity. I've taken out the old SMPS and opened it up. These look a bit fried:

.

So, moving on..........

The first thing I want to try is simply connecting the Slimline in place and seeing whether the beast is functional with the new PSU.

The secondary connector on the Round has the following connections (voltages from the schematic from DIY forum):

1. Brown +24V4
2. Red 0V
3. Orange -24V4
4. not used
5. Green 10V1
6. Blue 0V

However the Slimline has a yellow wire on 4. Any ideas on what this might be? (I'm going to put a meter on it).

I'd prefer to not power up until I know what the yellow wire is for!


The other issues to face are the On/off switch and the Mains inlet.

On/off switch is simple. the front panel has integral mounting points which will take the bracket on the switch - I just need some suitable self-tapping screws.

For the mains inlet, I'm tempted to simply rewire the existing one, and make the unit "240V only". I've been able to confirm that the voltage select switch is indeed o/c in the 240V position, so I can remove that bit of harness completely. The fuse will need to be changed from 500mA to 800mA, and I may need to change the input filter components.

But the first task is to discover what the yellow wire does - if anything! Been searching the web for a schematic of the Slimline but cannot find one. Also a schematic of the Numerik would be useful, especially if it has the pin-outs for the Vsec connector.

Edit: found a Numerik "schematik" :p. Pin 4 on the molex is n/c, so that's looking good. Still like to know what the yellow wire is doing though.

Edit 2: Powered up the Numerik using the Slimline, sat alongside. All works.
 
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The yellow is -10v iirc, I do have one here so I can check... but it’s not important, that pin is no connected on the Numerik main board so you can just plug it right in.

Just noticed your edit, any chance you could direkt me to that Schematik please?
 
PS, I just found a dead round brilliant in my garage, the primary side is totally screwed but the secondary side looks okay... I might be able to make a good one out of the two if they’re both of the same revision. I thought I’d thrown it out a few months ago!
 
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