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ATC40 Actives on home dem

Expensive XLR cables are a nonsense. Studio cables are all that is needed, The late lamented Maplins used to sell 5 m pairs for about £25
They might be a nonsense to you but for many of us we do hear differences with different XLR cables.

Whilst I currently use Iconoclast OCC 4x4 XLR I would suggest Belden 1800F (as used by @TheFlash above) as being a good sounding reasonably priced XLR cable but there are many others around the same cost from Van Damme et al that in my opinion do not sound not nearly as good with ATC 40 actives and now with 150 actives.
 
They might be a nonsense to you but for many of us we do hear differences with different XLR cables.

Whilst I currently use Iconoclast OCC 4x4 XLR I would suggest Belden 1800F (as used by @TheFlash above) as being a good sounding reasonably priced XLR cable but there are many others around the same cost from Van Damme et al that in my opinion do not sound not nearly as good with ATC 40 actives and now with 150 actives.
My experience also. XLR-cables make clear and noteworthy difference to the sound signature. I just received custom made 2,5m long Oyaide Tunami Terzo v2 XLR’s from Japan. I already had 0,7m ones between the DAC and preamp. I’ve probably tested around dozen different cables since I got my 50ASL’s in 2021.

Best reasonably priced pro-cables have been Belden 8402. I still own two pairs as reference cables. Oyaide PA02 (pro version) is also great and those I used for a long time before Terzo’s.
 
One observation I have is that the waveguide / surround of the midrange driver in the 40’s always looks grey when photographed. It’s visible in the pic I posted above and all other photographs I’ve seen, they don’t look black like they do in the classic models. Can any owners of 40’s confirm this?
Yes, they are grey on cherry wood models, and the white finish. The black finishes - veneer or smooth satin - have black drivers. There are different part numbers for grey and black drivers.
 
My 100s, 25s and 50s all came with mains cables. ATC offered to supply XLR cables for my 100s in the lengths I wanted and I took them. But good XLR cables are easy to get at sensible prices from the likes of designacable, though any decent dealer should be able to supply them. Overpriced exotic voodoo cables are not required - when you switch to ATC you leave all that nonsense behind you.

Designacable are expensive:

This is the exact same cable. (Not the option I'd choose personally, I'd never get silver plated connectors, they will tarnish and give exactly zero benefit over gold plated connectors - the electrical difference between microns thick gold or sliver plating on a contact is infinitesimally small.)

 
Goldenears.

But, as a purveyor of “high fidelity digital cables“, I’d wager you have a few horses in the race?
No. No horses in the race despite my forum name. XLR cables are analogue and I don’t have any fingers in that pie. Just passing on my personal thoughts and experiences.
 
Designacable are expensive:

This is the exact same cable. (Not the option I'd choose personally, I'd never get silver plated connectors, they will tarnish and give exactly zero benefit over gold plated connectors - the electrical difference between microns thick gold or sliver plating on a contact is infinitesimally small.)

Right enough - I picked designacable as a well known example rather than a best price recommendation - I’ve mostly made my own cables. There are many decent professional cable suppliers who will supply good XLR cables for a few tens of pounds. Otoh the Iconiclast cables that fourlegs mentions above are between $1100 and over $3000 for a 15’ pair. Or $9 an inch.
 
Right enough - I picked designacable as a well known example rather than a best price recommendation - I’ve mostly made my own cables. There are many decent professional cable suppliers who will supply good XLR cables for a few tens of pounds. Otoh the Iconiclast cables that fourlegs mentions above are between $1100 and over $3000 for a 15’ pair. Or $9 an inch.
Wow. Be almost cheaper to upgrade the speakers. Complete waste of money.
 
Wow. Be almost cheaper to upgrade the speakers. Complete waste of money.
I am not suggesting Iconoclast cables with the active 40s. I only mentioned them in the context of XLR cables sounding different to each other and in the context of my ATC active 150 speakers.

My suggestion for reasonably priced XLR cables for the ATC active 40 speakers is Belden 1800F and I think that cable sounds much better than any other XLR cables I have heard at reasonable price levels.
 
I am not suggesting Iconoclast cables with the active 40s. I only mentioned them in the context of XLR cables sounding different to each other and in the context of my ATC active 150 speakers.

My suggestion for reasonably priced XLR cables for the ATC active 40 speakers is Belden 1800F and I think that cable sounds much better than any other XLR cables I have heard at reasonable price levels.
Would never spend that on cables regardless of the speakers
 
Hi All, Just collected a pair of Active 40’s to replace my Normal 40’s so to speak. Got them from Rick at Musicraft, He said they’ve only been lightly used.
So my question would be do they need to be run in to sound there best? Compared to the Passive with Nord 252, sound wise it’s obviously different but quite bright, nasally in the higher registers.
With the cable discussion I had my Nord connected with Reference Fidelity Components interconnect’s and Supra XL Annorum.Which made a massive difference.I just bought some average

XM-R4-1 HIFI cable​

from Amazon to get me by.
Thanks for any help
 
Over a period of time your ears will become accustomed to the changes in sound between the passive and actives. The XLR cables wont infer much of a difference. I had some 40As on home dem and I asked at the time, they suggested some decent quality and pretty basic cables - you really dont need to go down the foo route with XLRs.
 
Hi All, Just collected a pair of Active 40’s to replace my Normal 40’s so to speak. Got them from Rick at Musicraft, He said they’ve only been lightly used.
So my question would be do they need to be run in to sound there best? Compared to the Passive with Nord 252, sound wise it’s obviously different but quite bright, nasally in the higher registers.
With the cable discussion I had my Nord connected with Reference Fidelity Components interconnect’s and Supra XL Annorum.Which made a massive difference.I just bought some average

XM-R4-1 HIFI cable​

from Amazon to get me by.
Thanks for any help
Let your ears adjust. I only ever heard the passives sounds good as the actives when they had about £10k of amp driving them.

I beg to differ about the xlr cable though because I heard noticeable differences. If you want a cost effective one I suggest you try the Belden 1800F. It might even be cheaper than the Amazon cable but I’m pretty sure it will be much better sounding.
 
****ing Bricks in this conversation is more than odd. Horrible shouty, coloured just terrible.
 


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