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Tired NAP160, to 200 or not to 200, that is the q?

quietmole

Wholly member
On the shelf I have a much loved bolt down 160 which is awaiting my courage, or not, to get a birthday. It started the occasional random bang, which wiser heads than mine proposed was a good reason to do some component changing. I dithered (Hamlet has nothing on me) and it has sat waiting attention for a year or so. There are some of Les's NCC200 boards up for sale. I have great respect for all he has done, but also for that special, indefinable 160 sound. My soldering skills were never great. My eyesight is now shite. So the attraction of a 'plug-in' board vs a self-service is great. Thus the dilemma.

Any observations, criticisms (gentle) or useful guidance from you good people would be much appreciated.

Cheers

Geoff
 
Soldering became very trying as my eyesight become more compromised, my answer is the reading glasses and the angle-poise magnifying glass lamp that I have clamped to the table the light attached is great,, a complete ring so very few shadows produced while you solder.
Once you get into the swing of using it you can almost forget your blind as a bat.
Un-Bastardised 160s are now like hens back teeth, It would be a no brainier for me but to each there own.
 
If it were me, I would look around for someone to service the 160 if Naim can't or charge something that you don't want to pay. I wouldn't have a hack at a 160 unless it was completely, and without evidence that anything was ever done to it, reversible.

The NCC200s are great, but a 160 has more universal qudos.
 
I don't think that the NCC 200 boards are a simple plug in replacement in Naim Bolt Down cases. The component layout is different with the output transistors fixed to the back panel rather than being on a heat sink attached to the board.

Get it serviced by JJ.
 
Soldering became very trying as my eyesight become more compromised, my answer is the reading glasses and the angle-poise magnifying glass lamp that I have clamped to the table the light attached is great,, a complete ring so very few shadows produced while you solder.
Once you get into the swing of using it you can almost forget your blind as a bat.
Un-Bastardised 160s are now like hens back teeth, It would be a no brainier for me but to each there own.
I have just such a light, which is in daily use!! I am guessing your last comment implied original is best?
 
If it were me, I would look around for someone to service the 160 if Naim can't or charge something that you don't want to pay. I wouldn't have a hack at a 160 unless it was completely, and without evidence that anything was ever done to it, reversible.

The NCC200s are great, but a 160 has more universal qudos.
Point taken on board, thanks for the input.
 
I find the older NAIM amps are over-rated. I'd go for the new boards and enjoy the latest componentry!
It's a 'beauty is in the eye (ear)...' situation I guess. I haven't yet heard a pair of 200s so I can't make the comparison personally.
 
I don't think that the NCC 200 boards are a simple plug in replacement in Naim Bolt Down cases. The component layout is different with the output transistors fixed to the back panel rather than being on a heat sink attached to the board.

Get it serviced by JJ.
I'll take a look at that - it hadn't immediately occured to me. That's a second endorsement, so I may well ping across an enquiry. Ta.
 
Personally, I would get a good technician to put back the 160 to its original form with new components and just listen to your favorite music.
They are very easy to repair anyway.
This 160 really sings when in good working condition, even by today’s standards.
 
I have just such a light, which is in daily use!! I am guessing your last comment implied original is best?
To be more to the point a 160 is no longer a 160 if it has had the board replaced with an Avondale board,, or any other.
160's have more or less reached collectors item status.
If I were to be buying another I would want one with the original Naim boards and no modifications that I could not reverse.
 
Or, if they are indeed like hen's teeth and sought after by collectors, sell it as it is, all original, and buy whatever you fancy.
 
To be more to the point a 160 is no longer a 160 if it has had the board replaced with an Avondale board,, or any other.
160's have more or less reached collectors item status.
If I were to be buying another I would want one with the original Naim boards and no modifications that I could not reverse.
No, of course I realise that. I'm expecting this to see me out - I sold my other one a few years ago and have sort of regretted that ever since. But that's economics. So I'm not ultra fussed about the sell on value, more worried about losing what I love about it.
 
As cctaylor said upstream Avondale modules won't fit a boltdown 160 and even if they would they'd devalue the 160 (no I'm not Mick Parry in disguise!) so I would send it to JJ or class A for a service.
Haha, I haven't been on as much as I once used to be - is Parry still around in his Thatcher wig and braces? Much amusement on those threads back in the day, and not a little exasperation.
As I said, this box will hopefully see me out, so 100% authenticity is below sound quality in the list.
 
Or, if they are indeed like hen's teeth and sought after by collectors, sell it as it is, all original, and buy whatever you fancy.
I upped the PSU side when I bought it (full of brown oozy gunk) so it has lost the 'all original' anyway.
 
If anyone has an already prepared shopping list for the values of tants on the boards that I could crib instead of squinting away myself I would be very grateful - keeping my options open! Also best make. I seem to recall Kemets being recommended before?
Thanks
 


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