advertisement


Use RCM

Suffolk Tony said:
Maybe. But prior to buying my RCM, I still had problems with static on my old vinyl collection; in the same house. As I've given each LP a dose of the Moth, so that static has disappeared and not returned.
Click to expand...

There's nothing much else it can be other than a residue of surfactant left on the surface then.
 
Even with a vacuum cleaner an element of 'damp' remains, as the felt pads which create the vacuum seal get wet.
Some would argue that these felt pads which are usually a man made fabric also then reapply some static.
I spent many hours sourcing some pure cotton velvet for my pads, and dry the cleaned records with a fan heater holding them in the Disco Anti Stat drying rack.

I use 2 DAS cleaners, one for wash then one for rinse, though as @gavreid has said more rinsing is really required.
I also have a heater installed in the wash tank (would you do the washing up in cold water ?)

knosti-disco-record-cleaning-machine-goat-hair-brush-1-liter-fluid_1_DJE0001187-000.jpg


Another benefit of the DAS is that there is full immersion in the solution and both sides are cleaned at once (goat hair brushes in the tank). The drying rack slots into the base of the cleaning tank, or did until I stuffed a heater up there :rolleyes:
 
That's a good idea misterdog. I have a Velvet Vortex here and it does need a seperate rinse tank.
 
I used to suffer from static build up extremely badly that would result in not just dust attraction but a very nasty jolt when touching things usually my arm lifting device. I deided to get an Okki Nokki RCM and have never looked back as far as dust attraction is concerned though I also found that wearing a pair of crocs would still result in a blue flash and pain so now I go bare footed or not have rubber soles on. Interestingly i put a record on yesterday that i haven't played for a number of years and stupidly didn't give it a clean first and quite soon there was a lump of fluff on my stylus, something I just dont get.
 
gavreid said:
I'd guess that the relative humidy doesn't drop too low in your house. Static will be worse in very dry environments, typically in the cold of winter.
Click to expand...

My relatives are a bit wet, thinking about it!:) Thee periods when I had most static on records was in the summer months. I guess in winter with the heating on, humidity would be fairly low if you have gas-fired c/heating. I sold my Pixall and Zerostat when I realised they (and esp. the Zerostat) would be redundant, and so it has proved.

It is interesting why this seemingly permanent eradication of static via RCMs should happen (see Sondek's posts) but there's surely no doubt that this is the case with all wet/vac machines. I assume, from no comments over the years about different effects from the type of fluid used, that this static removal applies regardless.
 
sonddek said:
Don't forget that if you're patient enough to seek out another's RCM, there is an easier, cheaper, quieter, more thorough way to clean records, by applying PVA glue and peeling it off once dried. I have cleaned thousands of sides this way, with great success. Very stubborn cases can benefit from two or three cycles of glue application/removal. It is a perfect solution IMO, and can be done anywhere with no equipment.
Click to expand...

Never heard of that. I’ve got half a can of the waterproof variety. I’ll find a unfavourite record and give it a go. Undiluted?
 
misterdog said:
Even with a vacuum cleaner an element of 'damp' remains, as the felt pads which create the vacuum seal get wet.
Click to expand...

If my 16.5 is an example, the felt pads do stay wet for a while; however, although these pads lift off immediately you throw the switch, the record is still damp. Hence evaporation time (on the platter in my case) before sleeving.. What I don't know, as I've never tried it, is how much longer an enzyme based fluid takes to evaporate compared to an IPA based one. Obv. this depends upon ambient temp. but mine is 30 seconds or so to over a minute
 
MUTTY1 said:
Never heard of that. I’ve got half a can of the waterproof variety. I’ll find a unfavourite record and give it a go. Undiluted?
Click to expand...

YMMV with different flavours of PVA. I use Unibond:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N413Z54/?tag=pinkfishmedia-21

I don't think there is any advantage in diluting it. If you lay a little piece of paper over the edge that makes it easier to peel once dry. There is a good thickness which dries in good time but doesn't rip during the peel, found by trial and error. If you have any problems, just coat it again. PVA sticks really well to PVA but entirely fails to bond with PVC, so the peel invariably comes off in one piece leaving nothing behind, unless there's grease, in which case two or three gluing cycles seems to do the trick.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
gavreid said:
There's nothing much else it can be other than a residue of surfactant left on the surface then.
Click to expand...
Correct. These agents are hygroscopic and attract a very thin layer of water that increases the surface conductance of the vinyl thus reducing the build up of electrostatic charge.

Cheers,

DV
 
Here's a film which shows applying and peeling PVA. The grip of the dry PVA on the record surface seems to vary somewhat from record to record, and this was one of the trickier records to peel, so think of it as a slower-to-peel example.

You don't need a powerful turntable to apply glue. If you have a belt drive then you can just spread the glue on a stationary record. Some people use a piece of card to spread it more quickly/evenly.

http://supasound.com/pva.mp4
 
sonddek said:
You don't need a powerful turntable to apply glue.
Click to expand...

I've never done it, though would just pour from the bottle and spread with a mini paint roller and foam head.
The 24 hour wait for the glue to dry and then having to do the other side put me off.
Though there are now faster drying PVA glues.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top