100 hours of break in period is common with many audio products : amps, speakers to name a few.As for breaking in, my M180-300s took about 4-5 weeks with 3 hours / day usage, so 100 hours+. Stereo picture suddenly improved and bass power became more apparent
Yes I agree, then I whip the top off and re-check all the voltage readings, DC offset and Bias again then its good to go.100 hours of break in period is common with many audio products : amps, speakers to name a few.
As for breaking in, my M180-300s took about 4-5 weeks with 3 hours / day usage, so 100 hours+. Stereo picture suddenly improved and bass power became more apparent
I have an issue that to be honest...I've been trying to ignore...but it keeps coming back to mind to brother me
When I set the bias...I can set both amps to the same mA settings for current draw
Or
I can set both amps to the same voltage across the resistors
But I cannot set both amps to have similar current draw and voltage??
One reads approx 120mA and 1.196v
The other reads 120mA and 1.148v
Why would that be when the component values and importantly the (regulated) DC input voltage are the same?
Is this something I should be worried about?
Should I set the amps for the same draw or the same volts (assuming I cannot correct the problem)
The amps sound great as is...but that doesn't stop this bothering me
Any thoughts anyone please?
It looks like you have connected the signal 0V to the middle of the cap bank, instead of the "clean" end.
If that's the case, is there a reason?
Your "after" version is the way to go in my book, this makes it impossible to a wire to touch a hot spot, melt its jacket and create a short."inspired" (shamed!!) by the recent neat wiring thread, I thought I would make a half hearted effort to tidy up my mono's
I'm not saying this is much of an improvement ...but I'm a little happier (All new silicone wiring to boards and some of those self adhesive cable anchors to) as its a bit more "logical" now (red for positive, blue for negative voltages)
Before and after....
[/url]2021-09-10_05-32-35 by rock solid, on Flickr
[/url]2021-09-10_05-33-06 by rock solid, on Flickr
[/url]2021-09-10_05-33-52 by rock solid, on Flickr
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PS
While they are on the bench, I plan to make an aluminium screening plate between the power supplies and the board and loose the wood under the TX and replace with thick rubber....I'll share a picture if it comes out ok
Love this aluminum wall for both the electrical and mechanical benefits...........some amp manufacturers should take this as an example...........In fairness Laverda pointed out the same thing earlier (for the speaker negative)...and I just couldn't bring myself to believe there was a "dirty" and "Clean" end of an 8cm straight copper circuit board track?
Am I completely wrong in this? it just defies logic to me...
Edit ...Ive got nothing to loose in changing it I guess...I will tomorrow
Anyway ... I've put several thin sheets of rubber under both transformers, and removed the wood
I've also made a 3.2mm alloy "shield" for the motherboard (and in the process of making another to go between the two Tx's
The rubber seems to have reduced the buzz from the transformers (I have an isolation transformer on my mains...so don't think it is DC on the mains)
[/url]2021-09-11_05-45-44 by rock solid, on Flickr
[/url]2021-09-11_05-44-43 by rock solid, on Flickr
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I've also cleaned up the wiring a little more since these pictures
PS
One bonus of the shield in the case is that the whole base board is now much more rigid!!
I've been traveling, etc., But I'm finally getting settled back into things. I should be resuming mine this coming week.any changes to your build yet Mike? @Mike Hanson
Was the trial not a success then?
That earns a wry smile of self-recognition from me - and it's not just amplifiers..!I'm sure amps sound better with lids, if only because the "lead me not into temptation" aspect for the obsessive tweaker is reduced .