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Naim replacement cards.

I use a Goldpoint in place of the original alps. Put in before doing the RSL transplant. Now have the RSL remote volume option board, so the Goldpoint is set to the absolute maximum I will need, at about 2 o clock. The remote volume board is well worth the extra cost.
 
Pine Marten said:
Full set of Ryan Soundlab boards here in my 32.5, Teddy Superregs in the Hi Cap and Monobloc 110' s with minicap 6/NCC 220 boards. I wont be buying any more boxes.
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If I may ask : did you have any other Naim amplifier before the two mono 110’s and if yes, what did you gain moving to these two shoe boxes amps ?
 
337alant said:
I use just pair of 821A boards as a pre amp, they are awesome IMO , Elma 6 way for switching and a 25K goldpoint stepped attenuator for gain
Alan
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This must be fun and satisfying to put together.

Regarding the Avondale, I didn't quite understand the idea that the 821(AR) would change the nature of the sound until I heard it. In some contexts it sounds absolutely amazing, full and rich... in others it is perhaps a bit overdone. On the other hand, the RSL is also an undeniable improvement that leaves the NAC72 a better version of itself, with identity intact.

Tough choice really.... more listening to come! I've been listening near-field as that's my setup in this room, but thinking it may be worth letting them open up a bit to consider from a different angle (literally).
 
Gervais Cote said:
If I may ask : did you have any other Naim amplifier before the two mono 110’s and if yes, what did you gain moving to these two shoe boxes amps ?
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I guess I just wanted to see if going monoblocs was worthwhile after fully servicing my original 110. I was lucky to find an original early 110 in need of repair cheap. Put one of the serviced boards from my 110 in, new caps in pre amp psu out and, well, quite surprised by the far better control and weight in the lower end, and a general feeling of greater control and poise overall. At higher volume everything sounds less constrained without any hardness or shoutiness (?)
Now the bug bit, how to improve on this!
Qudos NCC 220+Minicap 6 psu per box! I guess many will say they arnt Naim 110's any more, after all the only Naim bits left are the cases, traffos, knobs, switch and sockets! I dont care. I've kept all the original boards etc so could turn em back to original and sell em for a packet.
 
Pine Marten said:
I guess I just wanted to see if going monoblocs was worthwhile after fully servicing my original 110. I was lucky to find an original early 110 in need of repair cheap. Put one of the serviced boards from my 110 in, new caps in pre amp psu out and, well, quite surprised by the far better control and weight in the lower end, and a general feeling of greater control and poise overall. At higher volume everything sounds less constrained without any hardness or shoutiness (?)
Now the bug bit, how to improve on this!
Qudos NCC 220+Minicap 6 psu per box! I guess many will say they arnt Naim 110's any more, after all the only Naim bits left are the cases, traffos, knobs, switch and sockets! I dont care. I've kept all the original boards etc so could turn em back to original and sell em for a packet.
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I need to find a second NAP 110 right away ! :eek::D
 
Another vote for Kit Ryan's boards (RSL) here

The 72 becomes a remote control giant killer

Cannot overstate what an improvement they make
 
I must admit to being a bit late to the party regarding third-party replacement daughter boards for Naim pre-amps; it was only when I tried one of my NAC 12 pre-amps, that happened to have NC729's installed that I realised the potential here! I need to sort the RF issue with the NJ323's (waiting for some components to arrive) and then possibly try some NJ321's too.
 
wylton said:
Well, I've got a set of NJ729 cards in my NAC12 and I'm gobsmacked by them tbh. I might try a set of NJ321 too. I also have a set of NJ232 cards too, but I'm suffering horrendous RF at the moment; I'm hoping that changing the loading resistor and capacitor, to set it to type 'S' (it's set for 'K' at the moment) will cure the noise.
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I doubt the extra capacitance of the S compensation (6.8nf vs 1nf for the K) will solve a bad RF problem. I found that putting a small inductor in the line before the phono board circuitry helped a lot. If you're OK soldering, you can insert it at either end of the shielded cable from the rear panel to the phono boards, or you'll have to cut the input trace on the phono board itself instead. A very small 3uH to 5uH size inductor will do wonders to stop RF while having no effect on the audio sound quality. Needs to only handle a few milliamps. Here's one part number that is typical of what you might try: Bourns RLB0608-3R3ML. Available from Mouser and elsewhere for very little money.
 
RyanSoundLab said:
I doubt the extra capacitance of the S compensation (6.8nf vs 1nf for the K) will solve a bad RF problem. I found that putting a small inductor in the line before the phono board circuitry helped a lot. If you're OK soldering, you can insert it at either end of the shielded cable from the rear panel to the phono boards, or you'll have to cut the input trace on the phono board itself instead. A very small 3uH to 5uH size inductor will do wonders to stop RF while having no effect on the audio sound quality. Needs to only handle a few milliamps. Here's one part number that is typical of what you might try: Bourns RLB0608-3R3ML. Available from Mouser and elsewhere for very little money.
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Thanks, it's just that when I put in 'S' cards in place of either the NJ323 (K) or the NA323/5 (K), the noise goes and it seemed odd to have a common mode fault in both boards. I'll try the inductor if the capacitor doesn't help.
 
Ok, so I converted both the NJ & NA 323 boards to type 'S' (470 ohms/6.8nf) & voila, no RF! Whether it was increasing the capacitance or a fault, I don't know, but either way, I'm happy with the result!
 
337alant said:
I use just pair of 821A boards as a pre amp, they are awesome IMO , Elma 6 way for switching and a 25K goldpoint stepped attenuator for gain
Alan
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I have 821+ preamp built by LesW. It sounded very good with TPR4-Snaps at factory settings, measured to 25.2V for both channels after installation. Les recently suggested to turn up the voltage to 31/32 Volts. I turned it up to 31V and the 821 went from very good to absolutely awesome - 5.8 volts transformed the preamp. At which voltage do you run your 821 boards?
 
Hi Svein, I run mine at 25V ATM and it sounds fantastic
I only have 18V transformers on mine so cant get any more than 27 volts
Might have a pair of 22v transformers somewhere will have a look ?
Alan
 
Hi Alan, the improvements here were astonishing. The preamp really opened up and the insight to the music is now breathtaking. Much more body and detail to the sound, very fast and smooth also. The soundstage left-right is bigger and totally stable no matter how complex the music is. Large choral and orchestral works never collapse during transients or dynamic outbursts. Rhythm, prat and speed are fantastic on rock music. My power amp is S100 with 2x500va ast transformers, serviced and updated to qudos specs by Les in 2019.
 
@Svein what's the best way for an amateur like me to measure the output on a hicap without electrocuting myself or shorting things out? I have a standard multi meter.
 
Hi, the black lead into -ve and red to +ve output. Turn your multimeter to the correct Vdc-position. I think a Hicap will measure 24.5 volt for each channel whether it is tired/need recapping or not.
 
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