Received an email reply today indicating an ETA of January 13-20...Here in Canada the expected arrival date of the first shipment keeps slipping to the right. First Dec 1st, then Dec 31st, now Jan 31st....
I would appreciate a PM regarding overseas ordering quirks, tips and tricks as well .I'm in the same boat as sleepysurf and stellablues [and zero]...
I would appreciate a PM regarding overseas ordering quirks, tips and tricks as well .
I like that...Something along the lines of M-PSA makes sense (Power & Signal Appliance)...How about PSA for Power & Signal Adapter?
Hi Ben,
Only guessing here, but here goes:-
If you take a close look at this internal picture of a 8000LX:-
Just left of the Black heatsink you will see positions for "REAL" jumper links that are not fitted - I cannot read the PCB text, but I believe it indicates the position of links if / when they are fitted.
I'm guessing that first you have to remove the following "jumper links" which look like resistors, but I suspect are in-fact links (I've circled them in red):
Once you remove the "Links" I've highlighted in Red - you then might need to add new links indicated on the PCB in Yellow text just to the right of the removed links - between the heatsink.
If you could send a High Res picture of this area of the PCB (So I can read the text), then I can give you clearer modification details.
I've never seen a 8000LX, so just going on "designers" instinct.
John
Hi John,
Many thanks, I'd stumbled on the same picture too!
It will be a while before I open mine, it's at the bottom of the rack - but I'll let you know when I do (won't be for a while though!). I can find lots of info about doing it to my 8000A (currently powering my rear speakers). Ultimately, I was going to bi-amp my speakers using my old 8000A and 8000LX - but the LX sounds much better, so didn't know which to use for the tweeters and the woofer! I guess if I did go down that route, the extra outputs on the PSU would facilitate this?
Any chance you could label the PSU's back panel or do a left to right, am a bit confused as to what each connection does.
Cheers,
Ben
- Are those green buttons in the rendering LED indicators?
- Is one pair of RCA/XLR inputs on the PSU meant to used as a jumper(s) to the M-DAC?
- In restrospect, might have preferred an IEC C18 inlet. Aside from DIY, there appears to be limited market availability for higher end IEC C7 power cords. However, it is very easy to find nicer IEC C17 power cords across multiple price ranges.
- Would there be any improvement in quality outputting from the PSU as opposed to directly from the M-DAC?
Hi Ben,
OK, when you do get to your unit, just take a good (in Focus) picture of the PCB area around the 'Links" and I'lI forward instructions,
The rear panel of the M-PAI (M-Power & Analogue Interface)??? is still subject to change as the design is refined... So I'll post a "Production" rear panel once its confirmed.
OK, I think I'm settling on calling the HQ PSU "M-PAX" - Power & Analogue eXtender
John
Charming !Happy new year - by the way I HATE YOU!!!
Hey, that's actually a step forward. I think the last time this happened you were in the bath! You really do take your work everywhere, don't you. Here's hoping I never catch you on the toiletSo I'm laying in bed thinking about your PFM post (sad indeed)...
Thanks John, fantastic news and honestly not what I was expecting. Please add me to the pre-orders for all the above.we now will offer the option of adding a "Step-attenuator" option to the "HQ PSU" allowing "Volume control" of the analogue input(s)
Erm.... maybe (sorry). By the way, have you had it up and running yet? Any noticable difference?and while we are at it, we can also blame Tim for the SBT Clock Lock updates - BLAME Tim!!!
That's very kind of you John, but how bad can it be? I'm almost tempted to ask for it back just as a show-piece / talking pointTim - your SBT is no longer in the best of shape - so I bought a new replacement unit for you...
OK, I think I'm settling on calling the HQ PSU "M-PAX" - Power & Analogue eXtender
John
I'm sure I should know this, but what does the "M" stand for ?
I'm sure I should know this, but what does the "M" stand for ?
MDAC = Mini DAC...
So I guess the M = Mini....
MDAC = Mini DAC...
So I guess the M = Mini....
Tim,
I can see the real need for the "Highest quality" Analogue path for systems with Turntables etc - the only real HQ way to design a fully balanced attenuator is using "Stepped" relays... I hate relays because relays cause trouble.... But then we could use the much more expensive "Reed" relays (as we are direct selling - component pricing does not impact end retail price as much)....
John