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Subs n Lows

I do. Atohm GT1SE stand mounts and a pair of REL Tzero subs. Works very well as I get a nice looking speaker and a little fill in the bottom end.
 
I used to use a REL unit, until I upgraded my power amp. I was able to very nicely integrate it with my main speakers, partly as I could dial out the 38hz room node with DSP.

However, on upgrading the power amp, the new one has so much more control and speed of transients that the REL couldn’t keep up with. At some point, I might look at one of their newer units.
 
I don’t. I should need one, being a lover of organ music and listening on bass light speakers (ESL57 and Cabasse Galion). I still have one in the attic though.
 
I use a Q 3060 in my desktop system with some AVI NuNeutrons. It's a lot less pokey than my BK Gemini 2, but integrates far better.

If you're looking for something to add a bit of heft to a couple of standmounts, it's great. Phono only, though, so also ideal for those with a passive pre with dual outputs.

If I was in there more, I'd also be looking at a monster sub to round out the bottom of my Kef 104/2s.
 
I will in the near future.

But one cannot make full advantage of using subwoofers unless the mains are high-passed.
This will significantly ease speaker positioning and relieving them from low- and sub-bass duties will reduce distortion and improve max SPL capabilities.

The problem is finding a 2-channel integrated or preamp with bass management, there aren’t many around, and I don’t want to use a miniDSP.
 
I have on a number of occasions, love me some subs. When well integrated they improve sound stage, low level listening and of course the lower end.

I’ve always struggled to integrate them without the use of DSP. That’s the reason I don’t have them now as I don’t have DSP in my amp or as a stand alone unit now.
 
It's probably best to get someone to build the crossover, with timer adjustment, like the old MT crossover. I think it's also probably best to build a pair of gradient subwoofer clones too. No commercial amp with sub out has ever offered the timing adjustment as far as I know, and they all seem to offer just a single sub out.
Digital processing is cheaper and more effective if you learn how to do it.

Stereo subwoofers are only needed if you cross above 80Hz and mono subs are immensely better at achieving better/flatter bass response at the listening spot with less ringing.
 
I have a pair of REL tx5 integrated with Harbeth P3s. I take a balanced output from the preamp to power amps for the P3s and separate phono output to a Minidsp infront of the RELs. The Minidsp controls the RELs to match the room response. I can put high pass filters into the balanced feed but have found no audible difference.
The combination works superb for my nearfield listening.
 
I have a pair of REL tx5 integrated with Harbeth P3s. I take a balanced output from the preamp to power amps for the P3s and separate phono output to a Minidsp infront of the RELs. The Minidsp controls the RELs to match the room response. I can put high pass filters into the balanced feed but have found no audible difference.
The combination works superb for my nearfield listening.
Excuse my ignorance on the subject but does the mini DSP just process the low end/subs or the whole signal?
 
With my last speakers the DSP improved everything but the top end. I’d run 3 sets of speakers before with amp/DSP and never had this issue but with Spendor’s it made the top end worse. I couldn’t unhear it so for rid of the amp and got some room treatments.
 
Excuse my ignorance on the subject but does the mini DSP just process the low end/subs or the whole signal?
It takes the whole signal in, then applies custom filters to feed only the desired bass at the right phase to your sub. It's tricky to setup, but can potentially produce the best results.

I have a MiniDSP and calibrated UMIK-2 mic, but I've been able to tune my subs by ear satisfactorily without it. I'll probably play with it again some day.

I have a REL HT/1510 paired with my Klipsch Cornwall IV, and a GoldenEar SuperSub X that's worked well with my Royd Sintra 2 this past weekend. I'll soon try the GoldenEar with the Ergo IX in my office.
 
Alternately, you can use the MiniDSP to tailor the signal to your main speakers as well. I won't use that approach, because I don't want to pass the entire signal through the MiniDSP's ADC/processor/DAC, after working so hard to find a good DAC. Therefore, if I end up using it, it will be only for the bass portion.
 
I use two subs with a proper 80hz analog crossover(LR4), they are positioned on either side of the couch. They are front firing and i have both woofers facing the wall(5cm). This results in the most even response and easiest and best integration i have ever had. I use Dirac up to 500hz after which the response is within a couple db and it leave most of the flavor of the speakers in tact. This gives a slope of about -6db from 20 to 20khz.
 
It takes the whole signal in, then applies custom filters to feed only the desired bass at the right phase to your sub. It's tricky to setup, but can potentially produce the best results.

I have a MiniDSP and calibrated UMIK-2 mic, but I've been able to tune my subs by ear satisfactorily without it. I'll probably play with it again some day.

I have a REL HT/1510 paired with my Klipsch Cornwall IV, and a GoldenEar SuperSub X that's worked well with my Royd Sintra 2 this past weekend. I'll soon try the GoldenEar with the Ergo IX in my office.
The ‘tricky’ part is the problem, I’m a huge technophobe. My pal loaned me the UMIk-2 and I downloaded the free measurement software on my laptop. It was like Mandarin to me. I ended up sending him the mic back unused. I didn’t know where to start.
 
Picked up a cheap '7AS2' SH Mission subwoofer with 2 drivers on a whim not expecting much improvement.

Pleasantly surprised by what it does. It enables the main KEF104/2 speakers to be high passed from an adjustable frequency. I find setting this at 55Hz works best. To my ears it opens up the midrange dynamics a little and better defines the soundstage which was already good. It also usefully extends the bass on some recordings.
 
Alternately, you can use the MiniDSP to tailor the signal to your main speakers as well. I won't use that approach, because I don't want to pass the entire signal through the MiniDSP's ADC/processor/DAC, after working so hard to find a good DAC. Therefore, if I end up using it, it will be only for the bass portion.
Even if you do correction of low frequencies signal coming into MiniDSP passes through AD/DA conversion unless you use separate amplifier for bass and run mids/highs directly from pre to another amplifier . Trouble with this approach is latency MiniDSP introduces during the signal processing.
 
Used to when I had 4 x ESL 57s. They were car audio based active subs and worked better than some alleged "hifi" subs. Adjustable from "undetectable backgroud level but still better than without" to full scale "stunt bass, step this way for the nightclub experience" idiocy. I now have some big 4 way cabinet TL speakers and they don't need any reinforcement.
 
Yes, I've used a matching sub from the speaker series I used as my main 2 way standmount L&R stereo speakers.
It's very simple system where the sub takes it's signal from the speaker cable binding posts on the power amps, there's a couple of adjustment pots on the amp pack of the sub, one for low pass the other for gain.
Very simple to position and set up by ear, no laptops or microphone required.
I found it made a great improvement overall and not just in the bass.
I wouldn't really consider running a pair of small standmount or bookshelf speakers without a sub as I think it gives a very worthwhile improvement, large floorstanders may be a different matter.
 


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