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Marantz CD-40: a lifetime budget player

sq225917 said:
Why? Because this is PinkFish, not diyaudio.com.

Only a very small and select group of people on here will understand exactly what you propose and probably none of them use a Marantz player..
Click to expand...

Ah ha, how wrong can you be Si :) I have a CD80 which I have modified and I love it to pieces.

OK Malefoda, I have not gone too made with my CD80 but this is what I have done:

1) Tentlab clock + Flea + own power supply
2) Panansonic FC caps throughout the supplies, everywhere
3) Disabled the oversampling on TDA1541S1, restored track mute function
4) Output op-amps now are AD825 with AD797 up stream from them
5) Removed all output relays and output protection
6) Clock is now supplying the SAA7220

I am watching this thread with great anticipation and interest in the hope that maybe you find a solution to the upper MF/lower HF high energy output, I have noticed this on my CD80 too, it is not objectionable, just a little overpowering on some program material, especially rock and the like :( whereas on acoustic material it is adds a certain lift and prescence to the overall sound imho.

Paul
 
Hi Paul,

seems the last mod, the Fet output, does very well, I'll enjoy the player like that for some times and will report but I can say it's better, top bottom is still missing and I don't feel it does too much somewhere else (or not enough to be too much like the factory R1 setup). Let the Black Gates burn-in (well if they ever...).

Matthieu
 
Prior to the Flea, I've used my new RCAs and the caps directly, no more the original circuit. It gave a improvement, more than better caps or such tiny things. At each steps that bump in high is reduced, music flows better.
Then my Flea but only at SAA7220, don't know if I can drive the SAA7310 and a FlipFlip also at the same time. Will try FlilFlop at the TDA's BCK (still linked to pin 4) and remove the RC wich linked the SAA to the TDA.
I have an issue, the Flea's PSU, sold as 2x 9V, exit 2x20V DC, wich get as low as 16V Dc with the load of the Feal and 33V in series. Too low and too much, it's an oscillating 18/17V with both in // now... it works...

Right now it sounds very good, I'm not disturbed anymore by that "bump", it's involving wich is needed and enough. Beside my CD43 (CD63) has better "single points", as bass is lower and beat harder, but who cares afterall if the whole is boring? The TDA is taking the hand... =)

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4944/dsc00005dh.jpg
 
Good evening,

as I have less time these days so I've finished things started, fitted back the R I've removed at factory's clock (RTFM...), and last but not least I've powered TDA1541's 5V with a Jung/Didden/Sjöström super regulator (mainly a Didden one as he was more than helpfull!).

That was the best mod with the SAA7220's dedicated reg.

I'm not dead yet but "this is it".

Paul, no more "high mids / low highs" lens on music, it went away at each PS steps, gone for ever. The discrete output stage did nothing or few for that.
Maybe the TDA is at ease with these frequencies even with dirty PSUs but need good ones to extend is bandwith? Sounds like that at least.
I'm longing for the whole reclock work, it will (do) better my heavily modded CD-43...

Regards,
Matthieu

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/7006/cd40sr5v.jpg
 
Had in hands a bulk of OsCon 68µF SP, gone to SAA7310, TDA1541A at -5 & -15 (SAA7220 and +5 of the TDA already with a 47µF). All these guys bypassed by 100n PPS.
Was not planned but left from another modded player for a friend (Arcam Alpha Plus, nice CDP!)
At the SAA7310, added a 317, red leds, RC filtered and 0.25R in serie at output.

Both top end and bottom end improved in SQ and presence, my CD43 (aka CD63) is not matching the ease in the high mids. What I feel is a lack of low mid now... maybe that's the rest of the system, wich is possible with the DM4.
Lacking just in low volume times, other it's so lifefull!

Regards,
Matthieu
 
Hi,
having loads of free LT1028 I've built more low noise regs, a -5 and a -15, with a lovely 10.00V between. For the TDA1541A of course.
This have put the mids in order and I feel the sound more neutral.
Right now both players sound different, (CD43 has more details, a nice bottom, CD40 has dynamic, lively sound), speakers and/or amp don't allow me to make a definitve statement of wich is better. Or even my limited experience of what it "should" sound
like.
Still the Flip Flop for the TDA BCK to do, then built speakers and find an amp...

Can someone tell me if all this may be helpfull for someone? Seems not.

Regards,
Matthieu
 
It is.... well for me.. although the mods seem a bit overengineered for my 20 yrs old TDA1541-based NOS Sony CDP710.
The thing is this is the first time I read about the overblown highs and that's exactly the way I feel about my player: too much highs for rock, gets really messy, but gives a lot of presence on acoustic pieces...
Did a A/B comp on Led Zep Poor Tom with a chinese DVD player, and the drums are just too present on the Sony!
I'm curious to read your final comments on the mods and the ranking of what worked best for you.
Which capacitors did you use on the TDA ?
 
Hi,
Poor Tom does have drums in "as in front as other band memebers" ;) Bonham style anyway!
May I ask you the CD you have? A nasty remaster?
I have one of the first pressed one, sounds smooth to me. Push that test further I went listening at Rush " Signals " both "Rush remasters" and "MOFI MFSL", no need to say the Remaster has loudness pushed, cymbals trying to make your ears bleed.
If you have a remaster please try another one.

As for the CD it's clear the SAA7310 dedicated reg pushed that focus even more, as it brought bottom, not nice in that case, but the -5V and -15V put things together.
That's not "truth" and that's right on my system.
Could that be a common problem to us three? Our amp/speakers unable to do that dynamic at lower frequencies and give that feeling the upper mids are pushed a bit more?
I'll report after "fixing" my open baffle in the living room...

(and do these chinese no-name players don't bother too much with highs as most CDs are "loudness'd" to death?).

Matthieu
 
Hi gents,

also asked in DIYAudio but should be posted here also, maybe good advices around :)

My attempt to reclock the TDA on its own failed. In any setup I get silence or slight withe noise.

Before:
I have a Flea, powered by a dedicated PSU, from only one R at the XO's output pin, 2 wires, one for the Decoder and one for the Filter, then the ground to the Filter's ground.
Work like clockwork (!).

Now:
Then I fitted a LM317, fed by a +10V from the player PSU, grounded to a local ground passing by. Shows a solid 4.98V.
A FlipFlop 74HC74 is fed by a pair of wires, ground and +5V from that reg, a 10µF 35V tantalum and a 100nF X7R between the 7 & 14 pins.
A new R (100R; PRP) is set at the XO's output pin, via a coax, soldered at the Clock pin of the flipflip, pin 3.
Another coax goes from pin 5, then 6, to pin 2, each screen wiered on gnd, source side.

I've tried it with Q and Q_, with the RC 1K/10pF wich works fine with SAA7220 OEM data lines, 100R, always with pins 4 & 2 linked on PCB.

Don't know what i've missed, maybe something obvious?
I've seen some BCK from the SAA7220 wired to the Data of the Flipflop, a must be done?
Ground and PSU problem? Sync problem? Speed of start problem? Flea feeds problem?
Before I go back I'll be happy if any things to check. Thanks!

When I think that was the last mod before amp/speakers works... :(

Matthieu
 
Well,

with Data fed with BCK at the FlipFlop it works... sometimes, or highly distorted, when re-switched off/on, like a sync problem. Any idea to fix that?

Matthieu
 
This is the end.
Badly reclocked 2IS and harmonics on my mains resulting on overheating parts, the plastic case of the CD40 was icing on the cake.
TDA1541A fried for ever. Now I do watch thermal behaviour of my gear...

Matthieu
 
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