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Marantz CD-40: a lifetime budget player

Malefoda

Malefoda

Well-Known Member
Ladies & gentlemen,

here I go for an efficient CD-40, if possible...

why: I want to enjoy my CDs AMAP, music first, involving, foot tapping. And on a budget but finally not that much, I will live with my integrated amp for a while, they match well my speakers, it's an Aura VA100 a bit modded and B&W DM4s. First was given (but the caps for modding it) and second were 60€, so I'm willing to do something in the player, when/if get big money I'll get better speakers and amp...

what: an already well modded CD-53, a protoboard Flea with an AOP227 instead of the AD797, a FlipFlop to divide /2 the freq to reclock the Servo, HF coax mod, discrete output stage and good output caps, regulated drivers and some RC filtered regulators almost everywhere.
And the CD-40 have to fight this CD-63, sorry CD-53 wich uses a CD-43 PCB... the CD-40 will also be given for free, it's Santa Claus gift! "the Internet" says that the CDM4 is good and TDA1541A the king. It may be a R1 one, Philips datasheet hold it as better specs than a A, many people don't believe that, but's it's Philips said it... True?

So far planned, with the help of Martin (no fancy caps like the CD-63 here):

PCB PSUs;
elcaps changed for Pana FM/FC at a step or 2 higher capacity,
Schottky MBR1100 (do I need to upgrade the caps bypassing the rectifiers?)
I'll reuse 317/337 I have from the CD-53 but set at 15V, replacing the 7815/7915,

TDA1541
change the 100n Ceramic for 100n PPS,
Oscon SP 47µF/20V at +5V
Pana FM 100/25 & 10V for -15 and -5
Oscon SC 47/25 between -5 and -15
all these soldered on the top of the pins, if easy SMD moved closer to pins,
a Jung/Didden/Sjöström super regulator, and its dedicated TX and PSU*,

between those ICs at the TDA pins fit the RC decoupling (that's both in serie from the line to ground, right? Line-1K-10pF-ground? Ceramic OK?)

SAA7220
dedicated PSU or not, same as the TDA or not... (*in hands many 10V TX, several 3VA, one 7.5VA and one tiny 1.8VA, wich one where??)
a RC LPF 10R/100µF Pana FM,
then my readily avalaible LM317@5V, changed for red Leds ref (will that work with 121R instead of 100 for the minimum drwa...), a 0R25 in series at its output,
Oscon SP 47µf/20 then a 100nF film cap as close as possible of pins if better than the numerous 100n SMD already there (no mention in FSM but according to size I guess it's ceramic)


maybe many 7805 or anything like that I have to reuse even some LM317 (sample programs pirate here...)... or a LM340AT 5 for the main PCB's one, a 2n2 styroflex a the Decoder input (does well in the CD-53 maybe it was a cheap cap before?)...

A Flea at its best, AD797 & 47pf cap, SAA7220 fed through 33R,
A flipflop for the TDA1541, is it the former line of BitClock from SAA? f/2 clock via another 33R?

OpAmps output all removed for the Fet-ishizator, or not, if some have ever tested... maybe OPA2132 while not done,
6.8µF Obbligato caps at the output. (or for testing purpose my standard MKP bypassed with Teflon FT-1).

I will still do more readings, even if maybe 30% of the audio forums are dedicated to TDA1541, wich make at the end the "wise & efficient way" hard to find.
Voilà !
But any help, checking this and pointing to big mistakes or overkill solutions is welcome.

Matthieu



In case: the Aura wich I'm in love with
 
Why? Because this is PinkFish, not diyaudio.com.

Only a very small and select group of people on here will understand exactly what you propose and probably none of them use a Marantz player..
 
Well, how much dot are you using, should be one or three, one for facts and just facts, three as a "if you see what I mean" ;)
Anyway I don't!
This is here the Flea was brought to light, for Chinese stuff or English one,
I can't see anywhere there some market targets or price level or any level people use to partition their minds, nor in title or subforums sections.
But is it not d.i.y. section? Sad that what I've been advised to do at my TDA1541 including a Flea has no place to go, not here coz it's only (. or ... as you want ) Marantz, not at DIYAudio as I've planned no 10.000µF Black Gates.

Well, first thread and already a success! Lucky me :D !
Time to audio pilgrim again...
oriontour.jpg
 
Malefoda,

Keep posting here, you may not get an answer right away but you will get an answer from the top gents here.

Marantz might not be as popular on this board but it is all interesting to us, we are not one brand modders!

Stick around as I've a feeling you'll like it here (as crazy as PFM can seem, there is a goldmine of information lurking just below the surface and the people are as helpful as they come :))
 
Top dog for the man in the street, always has been Clara.

They still wheel out good (if a little bling) hifi, the CD6002 is a corker at the price.
 
Lol @ Simon!

Got a punctuation lesson from a Frenchman! HeHeHe! Does he use his foot to do his soldering? Seems he french have it the wrong way round these days! :D :D :D

Mal,

Chill mate. This is the place to be. Lots of good people on here and its much more relaxed than troll.com, I mean DIYA.

Please tell us more about what you have planned, and post up pics. We like pics!
 
Lol @ Simon!

Got a punctuation lesson from a Frenchman! HeHeHe! Does he use his foot to do his soldering? Seems he french have it the wrong way round these days! :D :D :D

Mal,

Chill mate. This is the place to be. Lots of good people on here and its much more relaxed than troll.com, I mean DIYA.

Please tell us more about what you have planned, and post up pics. We like pics!
 
As far as nobody is throwing me stones as a french... :) even if there is nothing to be proud of, be warned I easily slip into digression, and the stinky plutarchy we live in make me want to vomit.
That been said,
How do you want I tell more about what is planned, that's already a lot! Or if not I need to know what to be done. Enough to put back a CD5i in its crate I think (that's thrown to get fast reactions ;) ) and for faaaaaar less money!

As for Marantz I think it was a good image brand at a time classic audio shop had such brand, there were no chinese or cheap DVD players everywhere, no MP3 players. Only that shelf with Pio, Sony and lovely Marantz. In fact Marantz was also present in my local hifi shop, in France (british people around here, right?) because the violonist handling the shop said they were good players to make a budget systeme therefor sold them as the minimum player. And I was looking for a CD6002... but a modded CDP is cheaper and better.

Voilà, hope some of these top gents (and the one who almost done the mods list) have a look...

Matthieu
 
The stuff you are peoposing sounds sensible but I would always ask if it is worth keeping an old plyer like this alive when something more recent will probably sound just as good and won't have the potential transport issues - just imho.

cheers
Jason
 
that's a question, but if this one -free and maybe 50€ of parts- can do as a 300€ player it's all good: I can afford more records! About the CDM4 it has been very few used, it's far from being fried.
And it's said that TDA1541 has something about music no other DAC has, I wanna hear that :)
 
So assuming you go ahead ...

I would look at loads of local regulation, local caps with bypass and off board regulated linear supplies with separate supplies (including transformer) for digital and analog intitially but the more the merrier imo eg. separate supply for the transport can be good - the older CDM4, CDM1 etc have pretty chunky motors which will pull current when busy.

A whole new clock with its own supply is also a good idea.


cheers
Jason
 
Nice,
whole is planned (regulated PS later) and I added the expensive coupling caps in the first topic, I've found all over the Net that film do better than ceramic soundwise. PPS there.
 
I have two 1541 Marantz players, one the straightforward 1541, the other the 1541a S1. They are totally unmodded, but they cost me so near to nothing it was almost embarrassing paying for them on Ebay and they sound really good. I love the idea of making them better, though I've never modded anything myself. Very interested to know how it goes.

That Polish guy, the Lampizator, has loads of interesting stuff on his site about modding 1541 players.

Incidentally, my main (Sugden) player is also TDA 1541a S1, and is an absolute joy. It's no joke about that DAC.
 
Yes I've seen many times eBay.uk (I suppose your are in U.K. as it's seems it's the case for 99.99% of folks here ;) ) and the prices are "normal". You all are in a HiFi land, many brands and a strong culture about it, in France there are things on eBay, but market is small and prices cray! Like a (sorry no other idea) Marantz CD63 Ki alaway between 150/200€, madness as this one is bettered by far with newer players wich are almost chepear used. That may be the effect of "KI Signature", they don't want the best player but the more "bling bling Sarlozy Rolex show off" one.
A CD40 is always at 30/50, anything marked S1... don't evene want to know.
Stupid us!

As for this player, I will do something, what and when... and do many pics.
 
Hello there,

as all what I got from many people deserve to be shared again for one day someone else may need it.
Therefor I'll report my mods and what it sounds like.

Here I go with the main PCB with fresher caps, OPA2132 with Rubycon ZL as test output stage, MKP there also.
I've bypassed as close as possible the SAA7220 and the TDA1541A R1.
Well, at that point nothing new, sound with no detail nor space, lot of high-mids a bit harsh.

Then I've fitted a LM317 at the SAA7220, red leds bypassed by a tantalum cap, a RC before in a 10R wirewound and a 100µF Pana FM. A wire from the 10V prior to factory 7805, and a stack of 4x SMD resistors of 1R making a 0.25R before caps on the SAA. Done my homerwork.
It does run hot, not warm but hot, but as far as I can keep my finger on it for years it's not too hot, just hot.

That's the first time I find a mod is so effective, it now got air and better all, even if the too present mids/high-mids is still there.
Wonder why this has not been done by Marantz, a real great improvement.

I'll be able to change the R1 grade for a S1 soon, if any better it will stay in.
Ready to take place, the Flea works fine, the super reg is done, the fetishizator almost, more work!


Regards,
Matthieu

edit: did I forget to say that there are 317/337 for +/-15V? And that I'll change the FM decoupling caps at TDA for the right ground pins?
 
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