WillietheSquid
pfm Member
My experience is with DMT15 MKII monitors ... and with Manley modified studio monitors. The Manley x-over requires a very, very powerful amplifier because it sucks so many watts to achieve it's monitoring aims.
IMO, other posters have it right ... those 'big' Tannoy drivers require powerful, quick voltage swings with adequate damping to control properly. That means solid state or very large and powerful valve amps. Most very large valve amps are not well enough regulated to keep a super clean audio signal. Small push-pull and single ended designs sound musical ... but unless they have moster power supplies (out of proportion) to their modest output, they enjoy only modest drive. Life is full of compromises.
When I purchased my Tannoys, I began with little single ended 2a3 amps, then push-pull 300B, then smaller Naim amps, then a Naim 250. I only became truly pleased with the overall presentation when I placed the Avondale stereo amp into the system. It's been there 6 or 7 years now.
I bring a tube amp into the system every couple of years or so to compare ... but I quickly move back to the Avondale.
I've lived with a variety of Naim amps ... but nothing 'better' than an older 250. My favorite model is the 140. However, none of the Naim amps I've listened to have the 'color' and tonality of the Avondale. It's this combination in the Avondale that has kept me fast. (In fact, no other ss amp that I've been acquainted with preserves source color and tone like the Avondale amp.)
If your heart is set on the fine amps you mention, I suspect you're just going to have to take a leap. The amp / speaker interface is the trickiest in the audio chain, IMO. Theory is all well and good ... but most of us with years of silly experience have found combinations that defy all theory.
So, stick with what you love as long as you can ... and hope the urge to upgrade or change remains way off in the future. So nice to enjoy music that way.
WTS
IMO, other posters have it right ... those 'big' Tannoy drivers require powerful, quick voltage swings with adequate damping to control properly. That means solid state or very large and powerful valve amps. Most very large valve amps are not well enough regulated to keep a super clean audio signal. Small push-pull and single ended designs sound musical ... but unless they have moster power supplies (out of proportion) to their modest output, they enjoy only modest drive. Life is full of compromises.
When I purchased my Tannoys, I began with little single ended 2a3 amps, then push-pull 300B, then smaller Naim amps, then a Naim 250. I only became truly pleased with the overall presentation when I placed the Avondale stereo amp into the system. It's been there 6 or 7 years now.
I bring a tube amp into the system every couple of years or so to compare ... but I quickly move back to the Avondale.
I've lived with a variety of Naim amps ... but nothing 'better' than an older 250. My favorite model is the 140. However, none of the Naim amps I've listened to have the 'color' and tonality of the Avondale. It's this combination in the Avondale that has kept me fast. (In fact, no other ss amp that I've been acquainted with preserves source color and tone like the Avondale amp.)
If your heart is set on the fine amps you mention, I suspect you're just going to have to take a leap. The amp / speaker interface is the trickiest in the audio chain, IMO. Theory is all well and good ... but most of us with years of silly experience have found combinations that defy all theory.
So, stick with what you love as long as you can ... and hope the urge to upgrade or change remains way off in the future. So nice to enjoy music that way.
WTS