advertisement


Which CD player/variable output???

M

Mike1956

Member
Ref my previous thread.

I was planning to purchase a TEAC PD D2620 CD player to connect to my AKAI 1175 receiver/amp.

It became clear that I should be cautious connecting this new CD player to my old amp as the output from the CD player could be more than the amp is designed to take.

I do not fully understand the figures given but the CD player output is:

Analog 2.1 VRMS (RCA)

While the input of the AKAI is:

150mV/100kohms

One suggestion was to purchase an attenuated lead so the marriage between the TEAC & AKAI would be a happy one. It seems these leads are fairly expensive and it has been suggested that rather than buy a lead I should look for a CD player with a varible output whic I am assured do exist.

I am hoping someone may be able to suggest a suitable alternative to the TEAC?

The TEAC costs around £125 and the lead another £30/£40 so I suppose my budget is £160ISH

Thanks in anticipation.

Mike
 
There's a few older Marantz CD players which have variable output via remote control. The 6000OSE comes to mind
 
If you ask nicely on DIY you can find out how to make an attenuating lead for pennies in an evening. Ask more nicely still if you can't solder and someone will make one for the price of a bottle of wine. In fact, if you are in or near Leeds, that person could be me, I have time on my hands and I can solder up a lead in between cups of coffee.

Keep your £160, spend £5 on a bottle, meet a fellow enthusiast and job done.:)
 
Build yourself an attenuator. It costs two resistors per channel, some solder, and maybe a long barrel (to hide the resistors in).

SRC -> 75k ->|-> Input (100k)
...................|-> 33k -> GND

Ignore the dots. Behind the 75k resistor is a 33k, tied to ground, paralleled with the Input (100k). That pair have value: 1 / (1/33 + 1/100) = 24.8k ohms. The series 75k brings the overall value back up to 100k, as we had before, and is a voltage divider with the 25k equivalent circuit behind it, dropping 3/4 of the input volts here.

Current division occurs between the 100k of the amp and the 33k to ground, one part goes through the amp, three parts go to ground. Input current is reduced, to one quarter of the original.

Power = (remaining) Volts x (remaining) Amps, i.e. 1/4 x 1/4 = 1/16th of original, or -12dB, which should be just about perfect. :)
 
Mike1956 said:
One suggestion was to purchase an attenuated lead so the marriage between the TEAC & AKAI would be a happy one.
Click to expand...

Another suggestion is simply to plug the CD player straight in and simply reduce the volume as necessary when switching from another source. ;)

Most of these old receivers and amplifiers had pretty high input overload margins so I would say it is fairly unlikely that any problems will arise - certainly I've been plugging CD players into all sorts of old clunkers for years witout any issues, apart from the fact that it's a bit louder!
 
Thank you to all.

In particular, thank you to stevec67 for his kind offer. Unfortunately I live near Whitby which is a little too far away.

Thanks also to Michael J for his DIY instructions.

I have also communicated with david from flashbacksales who has been most helpful.

I am mulling over my options and will revert when I make my final decision.

Mike
 
The Marantz CD player is a no go. The variable vol is a joke, since it starts from maximum!! And in the case of the CD63, the damn thing starts playing when you turn the power on...
 
Yep I remember my family being very unhappy about my old CD63SE jumping into action after brief power outages in the early hours of the morning every now and then. Wonderful CDP though, especially after replacing the power cable, earthing the chassis, damping the case and a few bits of the transport! My brother is still using it now although his quadraphonic Bose 301 arrangement isn't really to my taste!

But I digress... Mike, before you start worrying too much about the CDP & input overload try it out, you must know someone with a CD player and the 2.1v RMS is a fairly typical figure, just keep the volume right down when you press play and turn it up really slowly; you should be able to hear if anything's going into distortion at a fairly low volume. Like Beobloke my experience is that the inputs on old amps/receivers are less easily overloaded than you might be led to believe, and on the one occasion I have tried an attenuated interconnect I was quite convinced it sounded worse than a normal one (although that could be a comment on Kimber Tonik rather than on attenuated interconnects more generally).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


advertisement


Back
Top