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Where to start on my new Thorens TD-150 project?

The problem I had with mine which is an on-going restoration is that the plinth was broken. In turn this led to the layered top plate separating with bending and indentations made worse when I removed it to get at the plinth for repair. The deck was never constructed to allow ready removal of the top plate which is easy to bend. I have repaired the plinth using large amounts of wood glue so it is functional but at best I would describe the appearance of both plinth and top plate as tatty. Neither give me confidence.
 
I have removed the foam from the springs and removed the speed change mechanism (entirely) from mine. It's in a better plinth also. Usually no need to change the phase shift components even if the resistor looks likes it's been getting very hot (it has. It's supposed to).
Personally I would sell the SME arm to fund something better. I really don't like them. I had 3009 SII and 3009 SIII and sold both on.. they look great but pretty much anything sounds better! An Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII works great on my TD150. You could probably buy 3 of them with the money from selling the SME!
 
Thanks everyone.
I love the passion we all have for scratching a little diamond across a piece of plastic!

I took the springs apart and gave them a nice clear and talc as per instructions - all sorted now.
They were tightened right down to the point of banging - now it all floats like it is meant to.
 
wylton said:
It does go to show though, that even these old classic turntables were pretty poorly made when it comes down to it, and that includes the early LP12's too. Mind you, at least the Thorens in the picture had corner bracing; it took Linn ages to cotton on to that!
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wylton said:
It's still basically a couple of bent bits of metal sitting on some springs. Don't get me wrong, the LP12 is no better; I well remember the shock of seeing what was inside an LP12 when I first bought one!

But I will concede the point.
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I believe those 'bent bits' are actually 'pressed steel' plates - very few people could achieve that kind of precision 'repeatedly' in their 'shed'.
As for the 'basic' LP12, I've always thought that a similarly 'basic' TD150 would be just as good, in fact the TD150 had a 'switchable' 45 rpm speed 'out of the box', as opposed to having to purchase and physically install or remove a speed change 'adapter pulley' each time a change of speed was required.
It was main reason that I purchsed a Xerxes, that, and a great personal aversion to Ivor T. I've regreted to this day that I didn't by a TD150 when they were available 'over the counter. In fact, if I had just replaced the cartridge in my Xerxes, and not purchased the LP12, it would have saved me a great deal of time and expense.
These days, my 'technically superior' LP12 mostly remains unused, and I currently prefer to retire to my 'man cupboard' to play with my other less expensive 'toys' (401, G99, & TD124-II).

Regards
Mike Kelshaw
 
I think that all of the suspended sub-chassis turntables are basically similar. The modern LP12 has taken it to nth degree, but wow, at what price! The original welded sub-chassis in the old LP12 were awful; most of them were bent, the later glued ones were much better. I haven't quite been able to part with my LP12 (it's in the spare system now), but I do much prefer my Lenco 88 and Garrard 401.

BTW, I was in no way rubbishing the Thorens, I was merely stating that it is a trifle basic in it's design and implementation. I think that most of us who were convinced that the LP12 was the king of all turntables, would have been just as well off buying a TD 160, we just couldn't see it at the time!
 
I'm not 100% sure about the advice to replace the rubber mat with a felt mat. The 150 platter wasn't very heavy and a bit resonant, at least compared with the LP12. I made a mat from rolled out plasticine and cling film for my Dad's 150 and that worked better than the Linn felt mat.
 
wylton said:
I think that all of the suspended sub-chassis turntables are basically similar. The modern LP12 has taken it to nth degree, but wow, at what price! The original welded sub-chassis in the old LP12 were awful; most of them were bent, the later glued ones were much better. I haven't quite been able to part with my LP12 (it's in the spare system now), but I do much prefer my Lenco 88 and Garrard 401.

BTW, I was in no way rubbishing the Thorens, I was merely stating that it is a trifle basic in it's design and implementation. I think that most of us who were convinced that the LP12 was the king of all turntables, would have been just as well off buying a TD 160, we just couldn't see it at the time!
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You clearly never heard them side by side.

I did.

Chalk and cheese.

The LP12 wiped the floor with the Thorens.

So I got rid of my Thorens and bought an LP12
 
Re mats: I think there are definitely gains to be had here, depending on the kind of presentation you like. On my TD125 I'd take either an Achromat or a felt mat over the standard Thorens ones, which IMO make it sound slower and muddier than it has to. Again the Analogue Dept website has details of lots of experiments. I think cork is popular, never tried it myself.
 
JemHayward said:
I'm not 100% sure about the advice to replace the rubber mat with a felt mat. The 150 platter wasn't very heavy and a bit resonant, at least compared with the LP12. I made a mat from rolled out plasticine and cling film for my Dad's 150 and that worked better than the Linn felt mat.
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that I'd have like to have seen :)
 
Just for completeness I was going to replace the two caps as they look a little cooked (see picture earlier in thread)
- 0.33uf @ 400v
- 0.01uf @ 1000v

Can someone give me the correct modern equivalents to order?
I have seen plenty of references to X2 but am not really sure that that means, not to mention poly film and PME!
 
vinyl_paul said:
This is going to have a SME-3009 II improved on it.
Anything I should do before I start?

What about tuning those springs? They seems quite 'tight' at the moment? Doesn't seem to float?

The electrics look a little fried? Couple of old capacitors.

Bottom plate is thin cardboard - change to some MDF?
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Personally if it was mine and is in good cosmetic condition I’d start off by simply restoring it to factory spec. Thorens knew what they were doing and a well maintained TD-150 still sounds very decent to this day.

I’d certainly replace those dodgy looking capacitors, replace the mains lead, clean and re-lube everything and buy it a new belt. Then just pop the 3009 on it, grab a really nice high compliance MM cart and you will have a great deck that is also a design classic. If you really want to improve it the biggest bang for buck will come from sticking it on a good quality purpose-designed turntable wall-shelf. Like LP12s they hate being on heavy equipment racks.
 
That's exactly my plan Tony!
Mains lead done as per other thread.
Have fitted existing Nagaoka MP-300 and I am loving the sound already

Once someone gives me links/specs for capacitors I will get and order those.
Already have a Rega wall-shelf installed, with a granite plinth left over from a kitchen renovation - very solid!

Needs new feet as the original rubber ones have perished.
 
I used a felt mat for years but after doing a careful comparison between mats and with some cross checking against CD (a "not effected by mats" comparison) I eventually ended up with a rubber mat. I can well see felt being what many would regard as "better" as it makes things a little "larger than life", maybe adds a touch of "nice colouration" but the rubber mat is more accurate and ultimately gave me a bit more transparency and insight into the recording on well recorded material.
 
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