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Tweaks for Rega decks?

JTC

PFM Villager...
I have a P8 with Apheta 2 cartridge and I am overall delighted with it. However, I wondered whether there were tweaks such as aftermarket mats, weights, etc., that are worth considering to get even more from it?

I'm sorted for support - Rega P8/10 wall-shelf - RCM and have a decent phono stage already, so really focused on the deck itself.
 
Apart from isolation, the one thing I found really worked well on the Rega P8 was a Funk Firm Acromat (think that’s what it’s called).

It made things clearer and more dynamic, it just had more get up and go overall. I swapped back to the felt mat after a while, it didn’t stay on for very long.

I went for the thinner mat (3mm IIRC) to not upset the VTA too much.
 
At that level it’s hard to upgrade - my advice would be to ignore those who suggest you can make big changes for a few quid. You can’t. Regas are basically well sorted designs and if you’re happy, then great. The P10 or Naia are better decks altogether but you’ll need to cobble together more cash and part-ex. I’d buy more records and a bottle of your favourite tipple in your enviable situation.
 
At that level it’s hard to upgrade - my advice would be to ignore those who suggest you can make big changes for a few quid. You can’t. Regas are basically well sorted designs and if you’re happy, then great. The P10 or Naia are better decks altogether but you’ll need to cobble together more cash and part-ex. I’d buy more records and a bottle of your favourite tipple in your enviable situation.
I totally agree but in the words of Mr Gandy, there’s always a compromise to fit the budget.

I few cheap tweaks here and there can’t hurt.
 
You could change mats or counterweight if you wanted and it may give a slight change in sound or you could change the tonearm to one of Regas more upmarket tonearms,RB2000, RB3000, etc, but probably the biggest change would be made by changing the cartridge.

I think 'tweaks' at the best of times only give very minor changes if any, though maybe a lot of tweaks would add up to more than just a minor change.
 
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Rega P8/Apheta 2/wallshelf owner too here (into Aria Mk3). I don't think I would change anything. Maybe try an Apheta 3 when the time has come?
And I sometimes wonder how the P8 would sound with an RB2000 or RB3000, but I guess going the P10 route would be easier.
 
No idea about the modern Rega decks, but the old Planar 3/RB300 can be improved by a quite startling amount by simply loosening the big nut holding the arm onto the plinth. Just set it to the point that armbase doesn’t move when you use the cueing device, and no more than that. You don’t need a spanner to tighten it, just your fingers is more than enough. That done the thinness, leanness and any tendency to sibilance is reduced and the deck starts behaving like a far more expensive one.

PS I’d love to study this as it applies to so much audio and seems consistent in effect across most decks, arms, speakers, speaker stands etc. My best guess (and without access to proper lab conditions, accelerometers etc that is all it can be) is that loosening this joint helps prevent a resonant reflection from the mass of the plinth that otherwise echoes back up the arm tube to the cart like a tuning fork. Rega’s recent approach, which I’m sure is grounded in the same phenomenon I’m hearing, is to remove as much mass as they possibly can from the plinth. That makes a lot of sense to me and I suspect this tweak won’t work with their modern foam-laminate plinths, which are likely very lightly torqued by design. In fact it wouldn’t surprise me if their current three-screw arm fitting was designed to allow far lower torque settings, i.e. the armbase can’t rotate when using the cueing arm at all now.
 
Another vote here for the achromat, though I know it's not to everybody's taste. To my ears it raises the performance of the P8 a notch. It's the only tweak I've tried, as overall I don't feel the need to go down that route with the P8, but I do have a Tecnoweight I wouldn't mind giving a go – I just haven't the balls to try and remove the end stub from the rather fine and fabulous RB880.
 
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@Tony L Regas main aim with the construction of the TTs seems to be to reduce mass and increase rigidity with the braced foam plinths (although platter mass increases as you go up the range) , certainly the 3 point fixing on the tonearms would tick both these boxes.
 
Another vote here for the achromat, though I know it's not to everybody's taste. To my ears it raises the performance of the P8 a notch. It's the only tweak I've tried, as overall I don't feel the need to go down that route with the P8, but I do have a Tecnoweight I wouldn't mind giving testing – I just haven't the balls to try and remove the end stub from the rather fine and fabulous RB880.
The stubs are now super tight on the Rega arms, may even be bonded on. You’d probably wreck the arm trying to remove.
 
@Tony L Regas main aim with the construction of the TTs seems to be to reduce mass and increase rigidity with the braced foam plinths (although platter mass increases as you go up the range) , certainly the 3 point fixing on the tonearms would tick both these boxes.

My suspicion is there is much more going on at Rega than that. ‘Rigidity’ is the most misused word in modern audio IMHO. So many people view it as what something feels like in their hand, how tightly something is bolted down, what it looks like etc with absolutely no comprehension as to what is actually happening to that structure at audio frequencies. Resonance is a key factor here, i.e. once something starts to ring, which tightly coupled bits of metal tend to, then it is no longer rigid even if ones eyes and hands suggest otherwise. Mass is a factor too, e.g. what happens to energy from an arm when it hits the plinth? Where does it go? Does it reflect back? Rega know all this. I’m sure they’ll have had accelerometers all over stuff figuring out how it behaves.
 
I added a Groovetracer sub-platter to my RP6 - excellent piece, and to my ears improved the noise floor notably.

That said, I wouldn't bother with any other upgrades beyond ensuring an ideal placement and isolation.

Certainly with a P8 or P10 I most definitely wouldn't fiddle with it. I guess you could add the RB3000 to the P8 and it may be an economical move if you sell on the RB880.

Now that I'm typing this, I recall @RossB perhaps saying he added a linear PSU to the P8 with some success?
 
I have a P8 with Apheta 2 cartridge and I am overall delighted with it. However, I wondered whether there were tweaks such as aftermarket mats, weights, etc., that are worth considering to get even more from it?

I'm sorted for support - Rega P8/10 wall-shelf - RCM and have a decent phono stage already, so really focused on the deck itself.
There maybe specific torques that are more musical than what gets shipped from the factory or go out of spec once shipped. There’s a dealer that posts on the Lejonklou forum that I believe tweaks those for customers.
 
Back in the day, we were all putting squash balls under our P3s (empty tape box halves also worked quite well) - but obviously completely antithetical to the ethos that the firm subsequently adopted as the 9 and then the RPs were introduced. I have tried loads of different matts on a P6 and then on a P8, and even made a very long and quite boring thread about it here.

With the 10 I am quite happy with the (thinner, I think) supplied white felt. The main thing I'm thinking about is different non-Rega carts, the VTA issue, whether I can be bothered with any of that, etc.
 
Experiment with critical torque settings on the tonearm. A good starting point would be .8Nm for the 3 point tonearm mount. For the cartridge to headshell start around .3Nm and work your way up.
 
Back in the day, we were all putting squash balls under our P3s
Were we? I don't recall ever doing that. I did have to prop a Planar 2 up on ashtrays in order for its fitted G-707 to clear the shelf that the deck was sitting upon, though. Luckily, the GF had a nice matching set of three glass ashtrays that, when flipped upside down, allowed even the straight exiting arm cable to clear the shelf. I was all set to use a hole saw on her then new wall unit, so the fag-ash trays actually saved the relationship (for a while, anyway).
 
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