Thought I'd shove this in the diy section, as you're more likely to dabble than most! I bought Royd RR1s secondhand some time ago and wonder if it's possible to tell if the tweeters have been fried in the previous life. Is there any way to tell (other than a sonic comparison with mint RR1s)?
telling if tweeters are damaged?
- Thread starter Linds
- Start date
colasblue
pfm Member
A good way is usually to put a bit of piano music on and see if you get lots of rattles and zings. If you don't then all is probably well.
Another test is to phyically switch the speakers over using a single piece to audition. If it sounds different when you swap the speakers over then that's a sure indication of a problem
Do yor speakers have any symptoms which suggest there might be a problem ?
Another test is to phyically switch the speakers over using a single piece to audition. If it sounds different when you swap the speakers over then that's a sure indication of a problem
Do yor speakers have any symptoms which suggest there might be a problem ?
Thanks for the tips folks. I'll give the piano music a try. I don't have a test CD. On many tracks it seems as if the "highs" (like cymbals) are suppressed and just wondered if that was a symptom. The Royd blurb for its RR speakers warns that the first order crossover offers the tweeter little protection against being fried and as the previous owner 1) had a big Krell amp and 2) sold them because they wouldn't "go loud enough", I just became curious.
Questioning if you've got a fault is just another symptom of upgraditis IMHO!
I'll feedback on buzziness once I've done my tests.
Questioning if you've got a fault is just another symptom of upgraditis IMHO!
I'll feedback on buzziness once I've done my tests.
colasblue
pfm Member
Tweeters can get old and start sounding dull.
I found that out with my first pair of MK1 SBL's
One tweeter died (probably of old age) so I bought a new pair - absolute breath of fresh air - I had no idea of what I'd been missing.
Royd speakers aren't exactly tonally neutral so if it doesn't sound natural that isn't necessarily a reaon to think anything's amiss, but past experience of the designs suggests they normally sound quite bright with a articulate but coloured bass/mid and if that isn't what you're getting it might indicate a problem
I found that out with my first pair of MK1 SBL's
One tweeter died (probably of old age) so I bought a new pair - absolute breath of fresh air - I had no idea of what I'd been missing.
Royd speakers aren't exactly tonally neutral so if it doesn't sound natural that isn't necessarily a reaon to think anything's amiss, but past experience of the designs suggests they normally sound quite bright with a articulate but coloured bass/mid and if that isn't what you're getting it might indicate a problem
chrisallan
Go on - bodge it!
The capacitors in the crossover can dry out - might be worth replacing them. Try www.falcon-acoustics.co.uk for advice and replacements.
Well they are config'd for potential biwiring and set up with hard-wired jumpers INTERNALLY behind the sockets so default is for single-wiring.
On a mission to experiment with bi-amping, I've cut the internal jumpers then "re-created" said jumper with short lengths of Chord Odyssey between the terminals. Plug on one end, other end [cringe] screwed down onto bare wire.
I've just read the hifi+ review of RR1s which suggests best sound is leaving internal hardwires alone and single-wiring. I'll revert to that soldered arrangement and draw conclusions from there!
On a mission to experiment with bi-amping, I've cut the internal jumpers then "re-created" said jumper with short lengths of Chord Odyssey between the terminals. Plug on one end, other end [cringe] screwed down onto bare wire.
I've just read the hifi+ review of RR1s which suggests best sound is leaving internal hardwires alone and single-wiring. I'll revert to that soldered arrangement and draw conclusions from there!