Subwoofers and LS3/5As
- Thread starter foxwelljsly
- Start date
Luca
pfm Member
Foundation Designer MKII.
CTank
pfm Member
£3.3k though. I would expect there to be better subwoofer options, more configurable, for a lot less.
I notice some misunderstanding regarding integrating subs with speakers. Perhaps I can clear up a few points:
There is often mention of some sub being too slow or ponderous. If a sub seems slow it is not the subs fault it's the room's and the incorrect placement and phase setting. Phase/timing is paramount and is why I insist on continuously variable phase adjustment. A lot of subs only provide reverse polarity which does not mean they can't be used, they just require endless positioning to integrate seamlessly and the position found best would probably be very inconvenient. I prefer sealed units as they are always much easier to get dialed in and if they are phase adjustable can be placed where they fit and look best in your domestic environment.
When a sub is perceived as slow there is a reason: All rooms without exception have peaks and nulls, an unfortunate fact. These peaks often up to 20dB above the average take much longer to decay leading to complaints of boominess, one-note-bass, and if phase is out of whack, a messy uncomfortable sound. This is what gives subs a bad name.
Room acoustics will help here as will using more than one sub. Bass traps soak up some of this and multi-subs spread out many more peaks/nulls but at much reduced amplitude providing a flatter response. This means the nulls and partial nulls are filled in where music info was previously absent. Let the ramifications of that last comment soak in.
Getting this right by ear is a long and difficult task but the more subs the better and paradoxically the easier it is. I like using 3 or 4. The subs do not have to be same brand nor even match and they don't need to be huge. In every case stay sealed, adding resonant ports into the mix compounds the tuning unnecessarily.
Being able to high-pass the mains is an advantage and brings even more to the party especially with small monitors like the LS3/5A. This can be simply and inexpensively done by inserting a PLLXO into the interconnect either between pre and power amp or into the tape loop of an integrated amp. This will be specific to your amplification, just need to know it's input impedance.
I have mated subs to tiny speakers, horns, floorstanders, electrostatics and even Apogee ribbons. Not met a speaker that won't. The best way to do this is with a measurement system. The free and excellent REW and 100 bucks microphone will help with room acoustic treatment and help optimise speaker and sub placement. Spend the time and you will be rewarded beyond credulity.
There is often mention of some sub being too slow or ponderous. If a sub seems slow it is not the subs fault it's the room's and the incorrect placement and phase setting. Phase/timing is paramount and is why I insist on continuously variable phase adjustment. A lot of subs only provide reverse polarity which does not mean they can't be used, they just require endless positioning to integrate seamlessly and the position found best would probably be very inconvenient. I prefer sealed units as they are always much easier to get dialed in and if they are phase adjustable can be placed where they fit and look best in your domestic environment.
When a sub is perceived as slow there is a reason: All rooms without exception have peaks and nulls, an unfortunate fact. These peaks often up to 20dB above the average take much longer to decay leading to complaints of boominess, one-note-bass, and if phase is out of whack, a messy uncomfortable sound. This is what gives subs a bad name.
Room acoustics will help here as will using more than one sub. Bass traps soak up some of this and multi-subs spread out many more peaks/nulls but at much reduced amplitude providing a flatter response. This means the nulls and partial nulls are filled in where music info was previously absent. Let the ramifications of that last comment soak in.
Getting this right by ear is a long and difficult task but the more subs the better and paradoxically the easier it is. I like using 3 or 4. The subs do not have to be same brand nor even match and they don't need to be huge. In every case stay sealed, adding resonant ports into the mix compounds the tuning unnecessarily.
Being able to high-pass the mains is an advantage and brings even more to the party especially with small monitors like the LS3/5A. This can be simply and inexpensively done by inserting a PLLXO into the interconnect either between pre and power amp or into the tape loop of an integrated amp. This will be specific to your amplification, just need to know it's input impedance.
I have mated subs to tiny speakers, horns, floorstanders, electrostatics and even Apogee ribbons. Not met a speaker that won't. The best way to do this is with a measurement system. The free and excellent REW and 100 bucks microphone will help with room acoustic treatment and help optimise speaker and sub placement. Spend the time and you will be rewarded beyond credulity.
S-Man
StrivingON
My mate eventually got around to measuring his JR149 B110s versus a new pair of Falcon B110s, using a nearfield open air technique. The old ones actually measured slightly better.