Yes, overpowering with a straining amplifier can lead to a blown tweeter due to clipping. That's why I drive my LS3/5as with 260W monoblock amps
I was 'loaned' an early maple pair of V2s with Scanspeaks, which I think was the pair that Ken Kessler reviewed, and is the pair that my cat is pictured sitting on on the V2 brochure and the website.
I returned them the other week and have been using one of them as a reference when performing IR scans with omnimic, when checking the health of the speakers I am preparing for sale.
In the week between after me returning them one of the tweeters died!
I heard Doug mumbling 'worst tweeter ever made' under his breath when I showed him the dead tweeter.
In Doug's stock there are still some Scanspeak equiped V2s - I've found 3 so far.
Although we have 20ish of those tweeters spare I am not sure we will be selling those LS3/5as, or if we do it will be into the UK only in case they come back for repair (to the future service centre located within 0m of my house, probably
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I nearly bought the Xtracable external crossovers for the V2 from Doug some years ago, but they didn't sound right to me. I returned them and they sat around in his workshop until some years later he said that I might as well have them.
So I had them but wasn't using them.
This Friday I spent a long day dismantling my 11ohm Kef drivered pair that I used with my Cicable crossover and swapping the drivers over with some from some Spendor 11ohm LS3/5as, as I had blown a tweeter in the former, and then building some V2 baffles up with the Scanspeak tweeters for some other thin-walled cabinets I had for use with the Xtracable crossovers.
They both measure well and are closely matched, so once I've ordered some more speaker cable I shall be sampling them and comparing to my V3s.
I reckon the first time I tried the Xtracable crossovers the connections were out of phase on the tweeter as they require swapping over inside the speaker, although I sort of think that the crossover itself should have swapped them at it's output terminals instead, so then when wiring up the bare speaker you just connect the red terminals to the +ve on each driver, and -ve to negative, instead of having to remember whether the crossover swapped the phase at the HF section and wiring appropriately.
Incorrect wiring would cause a big suck-out at the crossover point of 3KHz.