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Sound dropping - TV to Dac via Optical

Thetiminator

Thetiminator

Painfully virile
After changing my Dac from Boulder to dCS I’m experiencing constant sound dropping from the TV going into my Dac via Toslink cable.
It only drops for less than a second but it’s constant and really getting on my….
Anyone dCS or other brand users had the same problem and sorted it?
It’s an LG TV, sound set to PCM, tried all the various sound settings but nothing sorts it.
I even tried a Toslink to Coax converter and went Coax to my Dac but no joy…
 
Had a similar problem with an Audiolab DAC. Changed a jitter or buffer setting in the DAC which fixed it. I assume there are similar adjustable settings for your DAC which you could research.
 
You could contact dCS, they were very helpful when my brother had an intermittent clicking sound. Going back to the 2v output from 6v cured the problem.
 
Thetiminator said:
After changing my Dac from Boulder to dCS I’m experiencing constant sound dropping from the TV going into my Dac via Toslink cable.
It only drops for less than a second but it’s constant and really getting on my….
Anyone dCS or other brand users had the same problem and sorted it?
It’s an LG TV, sound set to PCM, tried all the various sound settings but nothing sorts it.
I even tried a Toslink to Coax converter and went Coax to my Dac but no joy…
Click to expand...
It’s a known problem with LG and dCS. The dCS clock has a very strict spec and LG a very loose spec in simple language which causes the DAC to keep having to resync, resulting in drop outs. Have a search on the dCS Forum.

Some dCS guys have used a Toslink repeater or a ReClocker with varied success, from 100% effective to only the occasional rare drop out depending on LG model. Others run the TV HDMI out into an intermediate device such as a Blu Ray or Set Top Box which then outputs Toslink to their dCS DAC.

Amazon do cheap Toslink repeater/splitter boxes, best get a powered aka active one to try - 30 day return so no risk,.

If you get lipsync issues the TV settings are too limited to sort you can adjust the dCS buffer.

wyred4sound.com

Remedy Reclocker

Stemming from our highly successful Sonos Connect modifications, we are pleased to introduce a uniquely revolutionary product, the Remedy reclocker. This highly advanced digital reclocking device removes digital errors and drastically improves jitter utilizing an incredible Femto-grade clock...
wyred4sound.com

Synchro-Mesh : Empirical Audio

Manufacturer of high-end audio components, specializing in Computer Audio and providing personalized service. Direct sales from USA.
www.empiricalaudio.com
 
brab said:
Had a similar problem with an Audiolab DAC. Changed a jitter or buffer setting in the DAC which fixed it. I assume there are similar adjustable settings for your DAC which you could research.
Click to expand...
I had a similar issue with an Arcam unit and an LG TV, and this was indeed what fixed it. It’s because of jitter. The setting on the Arcam is called PLL width, and you can change it to ‘wide’, which basically makes it more tolerant of high jitter.

Not sure if there’s an equivalent setting on Dcs units, but worth looking/asking the manufacturer.
 
Amber Audio said:
It’s a known problem with LG and dCS. The dCS clock has a very strict spec and LG a very loose spec in simple language which causes the DAC to keep having to resync, resulting in drop outs. Have a search on the dCS Forum.

Some dCS guys have used a Toslink repeater or a ReClocker with varied success, from 100% effective to only the occasional rare drop out depending on LG model. Others run the TV HDMI out into an intermediate device such as a Blu Ray or Set Top Box which then outputs Toslink to their dCS DAC.

Amazon do cheap Toslink repeater/splitter boxes, best get a powered aka active one to try - 30 day return so no risk,.

If you get lipsync issues the TV settings are too limited to sort you can adjust the dCS buffer.

wyred4sound.com

Remedy Reclocker

Stemming from our highly successful Sonos Connect modifications, we are pleased to introduce a uniquely revolutionary product, the Remedy reclocker. This highly advanced digital reclocking device removes digital errors and drastically improves jitter utilizing an incredible Femto-grade clock...
wyred4sound.com

Synchro-Mesh : Empirical Audio

Manufacturer of high-end audio components, specializing in Computer Audio and providing personalized service. Direct sales from USA.
www.empiricalaudio.com
Click to expand...
Brilliant thanks.
I wonder if a decent Toslink to aes or spdif converter would do the same job?
 
Thetiminator said:
Brilliant thanks.
I wonder if a decent Toslink to aes or spdif converter would do the same job?
Click to expand...
I imagine any device that can act as an intermediary and look after the sync between the LG and dCS units could be a solution. Another option would be a small DAC like the Fiio/Maplin £10 jobbies from the LG Toslink into your preamp RCA aux.

I have 65CX and 77C1 LG OLED TVs here but use an AV amp with both and haven’t experienced anything like the dCS dropout problem, I’ve had half a dozen different makes/models of AV amp with these LGs. Seen mention of the odd Samsung + dCS combo having dropouts but seems almost exclusively a LG + dCS thing.
 
So…. I have the same issue with my Weiss DAC 202.

My solution is to run the LG into the optical input of my Bluesound Node2i which then feeds a digital signal into my Weiss via RCA.

Unsure why it works but it does and still sounds great.
 
A converter will work perfectly. It’ll take the shitty jittery toslink TV signal and basically recook it into fairly good co-ax SPDIF pretty much what Jez’s blue node is doing
 
But note, dCS refuse above a certain level of jitter for a reason - SQ suffers from accepting it. Same issue occurred with early Wadia DACs - they offered a new BIOS chip to fix, but highlighted SQ would drop. OK if you’re only watching terrestial TV maybe, my TV also serves Netflix & Prime.
 
Amber Audio said:
I imagine any device that can act as an intermediary and look after the sync between the LG and dCS units could be a solution. Another option would be a small DAC like the Fiio/Maplin £10 jobbies from the LG Toslink into your preamp RCA aux.

I have 65CX and 77C1 LG OLED TVs here but use an AV amp with both and haven’t experienced anything like the dCS dropout problem, I’ve had half a dozen different makes/models of AV amp with these LGs. Seen mention of the odd Samsung + dCS combo having dropouts but seems almost exclusively a LG + dCS thing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I did try a cheapo Toslink to digital Coax converter from Amazon. It didn’t help. Also, my system sounded flat as the proverbial that night, I couldn’t figure it out, checked all my speaker/sub settings etc but all good. Put it down to maybe having a cold on the way.
The following day I removed the converter as it wasn’t doing anything and bingo the sound of my music was back to normal..these things must inject a load of noise into the system or something…
 
Thetiminator said:
Thanks for the info. I did try a cheapo Toslink to digital Coax converter from Amazon. It didn’t help. Also, my system sounded flat as the proverbial that night, I couldn’t figure it out, checked all my speaker/sub settings etc but all good. Put it down to maybe having a cold on the way.
The following day I removed the converter as it wasn’t doing anything and bingo the sound of my music was back to normal..these things must inject a load of noise into the system or something…
Click to expand...
Maybe it was a noisy device or a bit faulty, in another house I did use a Maplins DAC briefly to get TV sound using the min hifi, didn’t notice anything nasty but they are very cheap units so QC likely fairly low.

I keep the AV on the house mains and the Hi-Fi on its own mains, using on wall & in ceiling speakers lets me shoehorn both system into the one room - gives me decent TV/Film sq and very good Music sq.
 
Amber Audio said:
It’s a known problem with LG and dCS. The dCS clock has a very strict spec and LG a very loose spec in simple language which causes the DAC to keep having to resync, resulting in drop outs. Have a search on the dCS Forum.

Some dCS guys have used a Toslink repeater or a ReClocker with varied success, from 100% effective to only the occasional rare drop out depending on LG model. Others run the TV HDMI out into an intermediate device such as a Blu Ray or Set Top Box which then outputs Toslink to their dCS DAC.

Amazon do cheap Toslink repeater/splitter boxes, best get a powered aka active one to try - 30 day return so no risk,.

If you get lipsync issues the TV settings are too limited to sort you can adjust the dCS buffer.

wyred4sound.com

Remedy Reclocker

Stemming from our highly successful Sonos Connect modifications, we are pleased to introduce a uniquely revolutionary product, the Remedy reclocker. This highly advanced digital reclocking device removes digital errors and drastically improves jitter utilizing an incredible Femto-grade clock...
wyred4sound.com

Synchro-Mesh : Empirical Audio

Manufacturer of high-end audio components, specializing in Computer Audio and providing personalized service. Direct sales from USA.
www.empiricalaudio.com
Click to expand...
I bought a Remedy Reclocker there this morning, so I’ll report back as to whether it does the job 👍
 
Amber Audio said:
I imagine any device that can act as an intermediary and look after the sync between the LG and dCS units could be a solution. Another option would be a small DAC like the Fiio/Maplin £10 jobbies from the LG Toslink into your preamp RCA aux.

I have 65CX and 77C1 LG OLED TVs here but use an AV amp with both and haven’t experienced anything like the dCS dropout problem, I’ve had half a dozen different makes/models of AV amp with these LGs. Seen mention of the odd Samsung + dCS combo having dropouts but seems almost exclusively a LG + dCS thing.
Click to expand...
Just an update - the Remedy Reclocker has sorted the problem…
Thanks everyone!
 
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