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Solder

This is probably pretty close to what would be considered the 'quintessential solder': https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/1796662/

1.2mm 60/40 with Rosin flux. Bonus points for multicore branded but the RS pro is apparently cheaper. I have used RS pro branded solder (different flux type however) and wherever it comes from it actually makes superb joints (as good as multicore) so I can recommend it.
 
Ersin multicore is the industry standard. There are others but if you can get a metre of it posted to your door for £2 then that's you done and what's left can go in a drawer for 20 years until the next job.
 
RS555-235 is my go to flavour du jour for most jobs - just out of habit I guess and what I'm used to. 183°C melting point - so kinder to plugs and things mounted in plastic if you're not a seasoned metal melter. As Jez sez you can't really go wrong with any old 60/40 for daily use. A little OTT for the OP though ;-)
 
RS555-235 is my go to flavour du jour for most jobs - just out of habit I guess and what I'm used to. 183°C melting point - so kinder to plugs and things mounted in plastic if you're not a seasoned metal melter. As Jez sez you can't really go wrong with any old 60/40 for daily use. A little OTT for the OP though ;-)

That`s king expensive compared with the last time I bought it - is lead imported from the EU or something?
 
All the same to me.
I don’t like silver or copper solders. I like my solders shiny bright!
 
I think technique is more important than the type of solder. If you don't do it right you'll have problems with the best solder in the world. I got some eutectic solder a while back and quite like it but 60/40 is fine too.
 
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I think technique is more important than the type of solder. If you don't do it right you'll have problems with the best solder in the world. I got some eutectic solder a while back and quite like it but 60/40 is fine too.

Half the technique - other than obviously being scrupulous about cleaning & tinning the iron's bit and the parts - on things like soldering speaker cables and very esp. with NACA5 and similar large CSA cables - just use a bloody big soldering iron, 30-40w min.
The ability to deliver a lot of heat, enough power to quickly to make/remove the joint, will always do less damage than an underpowered iron held in contact, in vain.
It's a common theme discussed in the DIY area here.
 
(& yes - I've used my 30w iron to make up DIN plug cables for the same reason. once everything is ready - it is one-dab, done. Clean, fast, and not enough heat transferred to damage either the spindly core insulation nor pin housing. Strange but true.)
 


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