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So who’s put their heating on yet ?

How effective are valve amps or class A amps cranked up with augmenting room warmth??
 
The washing up liquid isn't happy, its too thick to squirt most of the time now.

Fairy Nuff in these temp's :D

I believe it's been proven that running c/h 24/7 is less efficient and therefore more costly than running on demand (and not overnight). I take what you say as a 'balance' of which part is easier/cheaper to replace, but surely, most boilers installed in, say, the last 5 or 7 years are covered by a guarantee, as our recent installation is (Vaillant= 8 years? Others, incl. Ideal = 10).

About the only thing advantageous, consumption costs excluded (don't know yet) about our new 18 kWh open vent boiler is the quick pumped water. It really doesn't seem any better than the 35+ y.o. 10 -16 kWh Potterton it replaced. Quieter yes, but in actually heating up the rads, little difference.
 
A couple of questions for those who have ASHP / GSHP:
Are you warm, what temperature is the house?
How much is it costing to run in this cold snap?

I have it fitted to a 1bed housing association bungalow but the ashp has been switched off since last January as it’s **** useless, thank god I opened up the fireplace/back boiler that was removed/bricked up and fitted a stove, took a can of compressed foam to the air bricks as my neighbours with the same ashp system are using £20+ day for sod all effective heat as these bungalows just piss heat from everywhere, no insulation under wooden floors, no wall insulation, thin 30yr old double glazing and minimal attic floor insulation so don’t consider fitting ashp until you have a very well insulated house.
 
How effective are valve amps or class A amps cranked up with augmenting room warmth??
100% - all the input power appears as heat.
That's true for all classes of amplifier (and anything electrical at all) - just that Class A are inherently the greediest.
 
We had the heating on for two hours this morning. That’s the longest it’s been on for some time but it was -8 here last night. I lit the stove just after lunch and I’ve just put another shovel of coal on. It’s nice and toasty downstairs, cooler upstairs but not unpleasant :)
 
How effective are valve amps or class A amps cranked up with augmenting room warmth??
Extremely effective, and you don't even need to 'crank them up', they idle at full power consumption. I spent a few weeks with a 30wpc Class A SET and sat just a few feet away I could feel the radiated heat on my face from the giant 845 power tubes. The combination of that amp (290w draw) and my plasma TV (185w draw) did a great job of augmenting my centrally-heated listening room. Pity I didn't still have that amp or the last few days' cold weather would have been more tolerable!
 
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Lived in a new build for a few years. Three floor terrace, so very little heat loss either side. State of the art insulation, modern pressurised C/H system, no fireplaces. In really cold weather it was impossible to heat the two family rooms to much more than 18C.

I'll never live in a house without a fireplace again. :mad:

This sounds like a case of either poor heating system design or the 'state of the art' insulation wasn't...........

Regards

Richard
 
Heating decided to shut down this evening, usual suspect of totally frozen condensate drain had thrown a fault.
Couple of kettles of hot water over the pipe, couple of resets on boiler and away it goes again.
I doubt the area where the drain pipe has been above freezing in the last week or two.
 
This sounds like a case of either poor heating system design or the 'state of the art' insulation wasn't...

^ Answer: none of the above.

Reality: beyond certain, really modest, limits (like those UK reqts surpassed on design-side in 1996, let-alone anything since): workmanship is everything.

(post-completion thermographic surveys, hint / ask me how I know -No - actually please don't...)
 
Out today for an hours walk in 0 degrees. Walk through the door to a wall of heat. Few minutes later wifey is wrapped up in blanket and water bottle sitting in a chair that is no more than a foot from the storage heater I installed just a couple of weeks ago that at 10 am is pumping out heat at its maximum. Reckon wifey shouldn’t be walking at her age and at these temps but you might as well argue with a brick wall :)
 
How effective are valve amps or class A amps cranked up with augmenting room warmth??

No idea, but I'm a lot happier firing up my 509s when it's cold rather than in summer That Class A heat then has a dual purpose which is music to my ears(!)
Guess my valved pre adds considerably less and my valved DAC (CDP) about the same. My class A can amp hardly dissipates heat at all though, unsurprisingly.
 
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I survive by my own hot air keeping me warm, generated by generally moaning about existence. Is this why Daily Mail and Telegraph readers live longer in colder times.

I discount the Mail but for Telegraph readers they'd need to live longer simply to get through it.
 
Fairy Nuff in these temp's :D

I believe it's been proven that running c/h 24/7 is less efficient and therefore more costly than running on demand (and not overnight). I take what you say as a 'balance' of which part is easier/cheaper to replace.
It's an "area under the graph" problem . Heat loss from a building is equal to k x t x delta T. The I is a constant that varies with house size and insulation, t is time of heating, delta T the temp difference. The greater the time the greater the temp difference, summed (integrated, maths heads, I know) the more energy used. This has to come from heating. The only way that continuous running over 24 hours could be cheaper is it the boiler changed its behaviour when chasing a bigger temp difference and this change in behaviour changed the efficiency enough to offset the overall greater energy requirement. I haven't seen any evidence of this. Yes, the boiler may spend some time in a less efficient condition but not enough. Anyone got any facts on this?
 
I understand why you ask the question the way you do as it is the same way a lot of people think but given how distorted the electricity price is.

As best I can tell my GSHP will be using circa 40kW a day at the moment so given I'm on an 'old' Octopus Go tariff this is costing me circa £4.75 a day. You can multiply this by circa 2.5 to reflect 'current' pricing.

The various rooms in the house are maintained at different temperatures and are currently running about 1°C under what they should. This could be cured by raising the 'Inclination' curve temperature from the 42 it is at now to nearer to 50.

As already stated this in an 1859 stone farmhouse with three rooms still to be upgraded.



This indicates one of the problems with UFH. If you had a conventional radiator fitted with a TRV the 'heat emitter' in the room would be switched off!!!!

Regards

Richard

Interesting, thanks. You’ve obviously put a lot of thought (and investment) into the optimum system for your property. Let’s face it, any big old house is going to eat money one way or another (as I well know!). My concern is the knee jerk rush to encourage people to invest in ASHP etc. From what I can see, the vast majority of the UK housing stock is totally unsuitable to work effectively. It’s just going to cost people a load of money with no benefit.

The temp spike from solar gain happened quite quickly yesterday morning in the south facing rooms (bloody lovely when coming in from a very cold dog walk, everything still frozen solid here). The floor slabs are at a constant 20 degs, in this cold weather there’s no point letting them cool down. £5 a day in gas on standard tariff, I can’t think of a better and more cost effective way to heat this place. Horses for courses.
 
I have it fitted to a 1bed housing association bungalow but the ashp has been switched off since last January as it’s **** useless, thank god I opened up the fireplace/back boiler that was removed/bricked up and fitted a stove, took a can of compressed foam to the air bricks as my neighbours with the same ashp system are using £20+ day for sod all effective heat as these bungalows just piss heat from everywhere, no insulation under wooden floors, no wall insulation, thin 30yr old double glazing and minimal attic floor insulation so don’t consider fitting ashp until you have a very well insulated house.

Thank God for your fire. This is my concern (as per previous post). We’re heading down a rat hole. Keep warm.
 
A truly massive amount of work needs to be done to a property of any age before any thought of an ASHP being anywhere near beneficial.
The list is rather long, and includes :-
Optimal amounts of insulation in all of the correct places.
Mechanical ventilation with heat Recovery to every room.
Completely eradicate any draughts, ie, where outside air can enter (not trickle vents on windows)
Double glazing.
They can then work very well, but the above job list can be hugely expensive.
 


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