Sme 3009 S2 improved questions

[geoturbo]

I got a nice SME 3009 (which I believe is an..) S2 improved arm with fixed headshell in the quest to use it for an MM high compliance ADC cart, and trying to install it on my deck and some questions coming.

Would you gently point me to a cable lower connection tonearm pod with straight connection to the back?
Moreover, would it still be possible to use the original phono cable with a straight from the back cable connection?

Currently it is not possible to connect the original cable to the lateral connection of my arm, as it is interfering with the NAS arm pod which is open on the back.

Thanks a lot

20231129_101825 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/186638676@N05/

20231129_101806 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/186638676@N05/

 

[Tony L]

I’m pretty sure it is possible to change the side-entry base to upward-entry just by unscrewing it and losing the right-angle-plate bit.

 

[Craig B]

Here is a good shot of what to expect. Note the slotted screw within the ground socket on the LH side. Remove this and the one opposite, then remove the two bottom screws and use these to secure the terminal block directly to the vertical rods.

 

[Tony L]

A useful tip is to lower the VTA of the arm right the way down and lock it at the bottom of its travel before doing anything. It gives you more slack in the fragile wiring to the 4-pin plug. Keep an eye on the earth wire with its little eyelet too.

 

[Craig B]

I must say, that is quite the plumb line you have on your anti-skating weight there. Looks like it might be getting ready to do a runner, though.

I've some instructions to share re: doing bowline knots in monofilament, if you are interested.

 

[geoturbo]

Thanks a lot for most precious suggestions, Gents. I will be able to give an update as time allows. I reckon I have some very thin mylar sewing wire somewhere still to be found with which I tried to make a belt for the tt.. proper way of doing knots would be helpful here too..

As for the 4 rubber grommets where the sme arm base sits on which are not in best nick, I wonder whether I could get away without using them at all.. or will need to find some small substituting orings or shall (diy) make a damping base..

The Nottingham Analogue Spacedeck is a fixed type turntable as everyone knows, probably it would be best to retain some damping action between the arm and the turntable as per SME initial design? (or just try both ways and let the ear decide..)

 

[Tony L]

I’d use the grommets, there are always some on eBay at LOLprice, but there has to be a cheaper way of sourcing them. When I get time I’ll try and figure out what size they are (I have a vernier calliper) as I’d like to keep a good number as spares as they do age.

Hard-mounting with washers does sound different, but not better to my ears. It brings a bit more bass tightness and snare hit at the expense of the beautiful natural midband a well setup 3009 can have. The whole 3009 design was thought through as a whole, and very much in its era. Trying to tip it away to more modern (“rigid”) thinking just messes up that balance to my ears. It will never be an Ittok, and it really doesn’t want to be one, so don’t try! I use the bedplate grommets exactly as described in the manual (i.e. not cranked down at all). It is worth playing around though and it gives a good insight into how every parameter matters.

 

[Craig B]

Hello @geoturbo,

You have a PM reply as to how to rig a model ship mooring line.

Good luck,
Craig

 

[geoturbo]

Thanks all, some music at last after some diy - cheap tricks'n - efforts!
Singing well with an AT VM740ML at the mo.

 

[geoturbo]

[/url]20240311_153938 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/186638676@N05/

Screw grommets (upper and lower) have been cut from a neoprene sheet; I could not use the original cylinder block and the original sme cable hence so needed to build a rca adaptor (no pictured detail sorry) with parts from the bin and music it is! yeahh

[/url]20240311_153903 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/186638676@N05/