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Simply opening an 160's case: impossible

Ok Stu now I see what is it....here we have that kind of tool.....but, as far as I know, it is only and exclusively used as a drill, and to drill concrete, Briks, tiles, and the like. We turn a bolt on the drill, and it starts hamming......to use it as a screw driver it should have a force control, limiting strength in order to avoid spoiling the head. I have such a hamming drill, but without the brake setting. Excuse me for the approximate technical terminology.....
Andrea (I know a Stu on the hificabin...is that you?)

No, i only post here and very occasionally on DIYAUDIO (when i feel like being told i am doing everything wrong).

An impact driver is a tool in its own right, not a hammer drill.

I really hope you get it sorted out.

Stu
 
There is probably some galvanic corrosion in the threads which has tightened them up on top of the person who over tightened it last time it was opened.

There's a fair bet that it hasn't been opened since it was built 34 years ago :D
 
But let me be humbly skeptical . . . .the tool can't possibly apply more strength then an Allen key held by a grip, hit by an hammer . . . .but thanks anyway!! I'll let you know how it goes
As Stu pointed out, the impact is applied in rapid succession and much faster than you can swing a hammer and with probably more cumulative force as well. An impact driver is not to be confused with an impact drill. The later applies impact in the vertical plane, which is useful for breaking through concrete; less so for (un)fastening tight bolts.
 
Just a thought: might there be a risk that banging with hammers or impact drivers might damage 30+ year-old solder joints? But I suppose if that's the only way.........
 
I wouldn't use an impact driver on a Naim case. Too much risk of damage to the case and the contents. Better to use plusgas/diesel etc and then try tightening the bolt first to break the corrosion holding the bolt in place before hopefully undoing it. If that fails you could try an extractor; this will require drilling into the bolt. The heat generated by drilling into a high tensile bolt will often help to release it anyway. If that fails then just drill the bolt out.
 
Definitely do not use an impact driver as the shock could actually damage some components within the amp. Heat can work wonders on stuck screws, but once again you risk damaging components via heat sinks. Use equal amounts of Plusgas and self restraint.

Mr Tibbs
 
Ciao Malandros

If you haven't loosened those bolts yet you might try putting a small amount of vinegar around the bolt heads. Being acidic this might dissolve any galvanic or other corrosion. You should lay the amp upside-down and let the vinegar penetrate for a while. Best wine vinegar, of course ;).

Before putting on the vinegar a few gentle blows (hits) with an ordinary wood-screw and a hammer might separate the threads a little as suggested in a previous post. Hold the wood screw upside-down so that its head is on the bolt you wish to loosen.

Buona fortuna !
Keith
 
When I first opened a NAP250 who's allen bolts had already been stripped by a previous person's attempt, I used my Dremel with small cutting disk and cut a nice slot into the countersunk screw head. A large flat screwdriver removed the screws with relative ease. New screws were installed when the job was completed and the unit was back to standard!

If I'm not mistaken, there seemed to be what looked like lock-tite in the threads!

Cheers
Peter
 
The bolts in question are the easier ones to remove on a 250 being m6, its the m4 which hold the heatsink to the inner tray which need caution especially on older amps.
 
The bolts in question are the easier ones to remove on a 250 being m6, its the m4 which hold the heatsink to the inner tray which need caution especially on older amps.

It's rare that they're both solid so freeing one and swivelling the heatsink slightly is enough to free it.
 
Not a word from Malandros since last Sunday! What happened? I hope he has not done himself an injury trying to get it open!
 


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