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Russ Andrews Oak Cone feet on a Shoebox Naim

James N

pfm Member
I am trying to fir Oak Cone feet on to a NAC72 and NAP110 using the existing screw holes if I can. The supplied threaded inserts od is EXACTLY the same as the id of the holes in the case, so what I am after is a (well several) short bit of rod with a self tapper thread at one end to fit the NAIM case, and the other end being an M4 (I think) thread.

Any ideas? (other than forget the thread and use superglue, which is my standby option)
 
Use the glue - much simpler and more likely to get them flat/flush against the casing. I'm not convinced they make a huge difference BTW (I have used them)
 
Use the glue - much simpler and more likely to get them flat/flush against the casing. I'm not convinced they make a huge difference BTW (I have used them)

TBH I had wondered that (I've used them for a few years on other equipment as well as my 'new' 72/110 and I much prefer the sound with them in place. More open and less 'HiFi')
 
TBH I hadnt thought of Blu Tac before. I'll give it a try (though I havent a clue what the results will be like as it puts a soft layer in what should be a solid coupling)
 
Ok guys

I have the opposite problem in that I have a s/h power supply which has had some oak cones glued on using what appears to be hot glue.

To say the least the cones look/are bloody ugly and I am left with the quandry of how to knock these cones off without damaging the case!

My one thought was to dismantle the outer casing, put it in a freezer so that the glue is brittle and see if the cones will knock off.

However here is hoping somebody here might just have a better solution.

M
 
I use them(well actuallyone) on my 72. Use the Naim rubber feet to keep casing and tray solid and simply using small amount of bluetac (which is quite solid when cold) fit them behind the naim feet which will not then reach your support. I use one placed centrally at the rear.I feel this gives most of the benefits without the sonic downsides (and there are some)

David
 
I would try the outer case in the freezer option first - hot melt glue doesn't soften all that much till it's really quite warm.
 
doublesided tape.

OK double sided taped to the undersides, and its working nicely. The noise floor has dropped *waits for the knockers to arrive* and its sounding PDG.

I *might* try the Blu Tac option later, or I may not depending on how this settles

Thanks again
 
Surely (I am not calling you Shirly), bluetac or even double sided tape negates the hard / direct mounting aspect to these coned feet.

If you won't/can't hard glue them on (superglue or expoxy), then let them stand free.

They make a noticeable difference to the sound of my kit.
I make them on my lathe out of oak. A couple of mates I've given them to to try won't give them back...:)
 
I'd use clear silicone because its soft enough to push the cone tight up against the case and should easily be peeled off (without damage) if you decide to remove the cones.
 
I was given some of those russ andrews, oak feet a few years back, but even though i consider myself a nerd, i could'nt bring myself to try them. Made a few quid on ebay though.
 
Excuse my ignorance / scepticism.. How can oak feet improve the sound ??
Quoted from Russ Andrews

The Importance of Feet
Chapter 3
The feet on the equipment have a pivotal part to play in the fight against
feedback energy storage. The use of Oak Cone Feet achieves optimal results
technically, aesthetically and inexpensively.
Stability is also very important. One of the biggest problems with most
loudspeakers is the way in which they wobble about on their floor stands or
wheels. As the speaker cone moves it rocks the cabinet resulting in a loss of
information and energy. Discover our simple cure for this problem.
The materials and construction used to make equipment furniture is by no
means the end of the story. Each piece of equipment needs feet and those feet
play an important part in the energy ‘coupling’ process. Fitted with the usual
rubber feet (felt and cork are also used) the equipment acts as a reservoir
storing the feedback energy - and stored energy is just what we don’t want!
We need to dump the energy into the floor.
Luckily, energy - like water running downhill - will ‘flow’ into a higher mass if
it can. Rubber feet or ‘High Tech’ squidgy feet prevent this happening. They
are ‘decouplers’ that form a higher resistance to the flow energy, trapping it in
the equipment and the feet themselves.
It is often claimed that these ‘decoupling rubbers’ turn the energy into heat.
This is a fallacy. It is extremely difficult to turn energy from one form into
another and the process is very inefficient. Just how difficult it is and how
little of the input energy is turned into heat is quite surprising. A few years
ago I asked one of the biggest manufacturers of ‘decoupling’ rubbers if they
could tell me exactly how much energy was turned into heat in their products.
After a short silence they admitted that it was so low that they hadn’t been
able to measure it! That is just what I expected to hear.
Consider this for a moment: the kind of rubber we are talking about is used in
squash balls. These balls are designed to bounce very little (and there are
different grades or bounce rates) and to be hit very hard into a hard surface. If
they convert energy into heat at any appreciable efficiency at all the heat
generated by hitting the court wall would cause them to melt and run down
rather than bounce off!
So what happens to all the energy you put into the ball with the racket? In
simple terms the energy has just changed down in frequency to the ‘resonant
frequency’ of the rubber. Every material has a ‘resonant frequency’ the level
of which is determined by its mass. Every object or substance converts
energy into it’s resonant frequency and so stores vast amounts of energy.
The low bounce rate of the squash ball is an expression of the low resonant
frequency of the rubber- you can hear the ‘thud’. A tennis ball, on the other
hand, bounces better and you can hear the higher frequency in the ‘dong’ ring
sound.
If you use this sort of material as equipment feet (and some people use squash
balls cut in half) the feedback energy is converted down to the resonant
frequency of the rubber and it just sits there and ‘wobbles’. I have to tell you
that I think this is a very bad idea! The destructive effect on sound quality is
enormous. It increases the ‘time smear’ and changes the balance of the sound
to a slow, boomy bass heaviness.
The Solution for Equipment
A hard material with a highish resonant frequency will perform better at
‘coupling’ equipment, so that energy flows quickly and easily from one thing
into another and finds its way to the floor (the highest mass around) as fast as
possible. The floor, of course, ‘couples’ the energy directly to the speaker (see
Chapter 1, Diagram 1, page 7).
A number of obvious hard materials could be (and are) used for this purpose -
steel, aluminium, titanium, stainless steel, brass, ceramics, carbon fibre - even
wood. All of these materials sound different because the sonic signature of the
material has changed the feedback frequency response. I have tested all of
these materials and found that wood (hardwood) distorted the sound the
least and its sonic character was the most ‘natural’.
From my research, I have found that the cone shape is the most effective
for dumping energy out of the equipment, and that the larger the
diameter of the cone the better it works. I have chosen to make
our equipment feet from oak, a suitably hard wood and one
which is commonly grown locally and in North America,
rather than a harder but scarcer wood like Greenheart or Ebony,
the use of which encourages destruction of rain forests.
 


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