advertisement


Router dust- urgh.

The Captain

~~~~~~~~~~
Hi chaps,

I've wondering if here might be a good place to ask ideas, having recently read Lord James of Ergo mentioning he might 'start to make a pile of router dust again'. Dust you see.. is my enemy.

What I have is a situation where I use 5 routers, each set up with a bit in for convenience. A skilsaw, & a mitresaw.
I remove significant wood, mostly via router, from 2 materials: birch ply, & 3/4" solid pine. Both nasty (esp the birch ply).

As I have a useful west wind 'across' me here.. I've done my cutting/ routing etc -outside- & lumping the nasty dust all over me. Brush it off swearing etc. Mask, raincoat, cap, glasses ear goggles cover most of me.. but of course I'm covered in dust, & sweat. Time for a change.

I have a workshop, for my 'jointing/ glueing/ finishing' work.. IE nicer non-dust work, once the nasty outside cutty jobs done. I've kinda wanted it to be 'clean' so haven't thought of doing any router work in here, due to awful dust making life a misery.

I've always thought any vacuum system, wouldn't quite cut the mustard, & I'd still be partially covered (being inside = really nasty). But I need to explore this option now. Maybe progress has been made over last 10yrs. So, could I ask opinions on dust extraction systems? perhaps from spkr DIY'ers who likely have nasty routed mdf to contend with.

Thanks for reading, Capt
 
I have used routers, sanders etc inside my grade 2 listed houses in the past and used Festool large dust extractors that have medical grade micro filters etc. They seemed to do the job and fairly quiet in operation, might be worth exploring.
 
When I'm doing the really dusty stuff I use a JSP force 8 mask.
I can't beat 5 routers, only 3 !

I've 2 dust extractors, 110v with power tool take off.
The adaptors for the routers tend to be awkward in use though, and the weight of the hose when making delicate cuts is cumbersome.

I tend to size everything with a track saw, where dust extraction works very well, and just take off the last mm or so with a bearing guided cutter. With driver cut outs I use a jigsaw for rough and then router to a template.
 
Dewalt DW-621 is one of the best designed router for dust-extraction on many free-hand cuts. Dust extraction on a router-table should be a feature of good ones. I use a Triton router table.

The other way of reducing dust is to cut at lower speeds, especially for MDF. This produces larger particles that tend to fall onto the ground rather than float and spread everywhere.

Worst case scenario when airborne dust is unavoidable is to use a pressured face shield. The last one I had had a battery-powered ventilation system that blew filtered air over my face and it worked a treat.
 
I have used routers, sanders etc inside my grade 2 listed houses in the past and used Festool large dust extractors that have medical grade micro filters etc. They seemed to do the job and fairly quiet in operation, might be worth exploring.

Hi Jag, Festool was one name that has sprung to mind in fact. But I'm a total newbie with regards to what type: have you a model number you've used, that you can recommend?

I have seen one, a portable wheeled box thing, someone had in a big timber workshop.. but I didnt see it working, or remember what use he had specifically for it. He did wax on about it though as very good.

Thanks, Capt
 
When I'm doing the really dusty stuff I use a JSP force 8 mask.
I can't beat 5 routers, only 3 !

I've 2 dust extractors, 110v with power tool take off.
The adaptors for the routers tend to be awkward in use though, and the weight of the hose when making delicate cuts is cumbersome.

I tend to size everything with a track saw, where dust extraction works very well, and just take off the last mm or so with a bearing guided cutter. With driver cut outs I use a jigsaw for rough and then router to a template.

Hi Metlor,

I'm really after recommendations as to a vac system though. Can you help?

Thanks, Capt
 
Dewalt DW-621 is one of the best designed router for dust-extraction on many free-hand cuts. Dust extraction on a router-table should be a feature of good ones. I use a Triton router table.

The other way of reducing dust is to cut at lower speeds, especially for MDF. This produces larger particles that tend to fall onto the ground rather than float and spread everywhere.

Worst case scenario when airborne dust is unavoidable is to use a pressured face shield. The last one I had had a battery-powered ventilation system that blew filtered air over my face and it worked a treat.

Hi James,

I was hoping you'd reply tbh. One of my routers is a dW 621.. but the other 4 are all different (got through 3x 621's in my time, the thread is the weak bit on this I found, apart from this it's good though).

I haven't seen router tables before, as I tend to use a router with a set bit (a roundover bit for edging, for eg, this job creates a huge ammount of extract & I'm -covered- head to foot in dust after 10mins) using two hands walking along with it, as it were: so if you imagine a speaker 4 sided 'shell', clamping it to a table, & running a router along the edges to shape them: this is how I'm working, for one of my 'nasty' jobs.

What I can only envisage, is a huge powerful dust vac hose, somehow following along with me. Or huge enough to suck from a bit of a distance, when I get to the end of my box edge. I've tried lower speeds, but I need reasonably fast to get a good finish, & crack on with the job without any delay too.

Thanks, Capt
 
Hi Jag, Festool was one name that has sprung to mind in fact. But I'm a total newbie with regards to what type: have you a model number you've used, that you can recommend?

I have seen one, a portable wheeled box thing, someone had in a big timber workshop.. but I didnt see it working, or remember what use he had specifically for it. He did wax on about it though as very good.

Thanks, Capt
Hi Capt, I use Festool tools as they were regarded to be the best and most reliable when I was into property restoration and have a free 3 year warranty. The dust extractor I use is Festool Cleantec CTL 26E and it storesthe tool cases called systainers on the top and lock into each other.

I still have a range of Festool tools like a boxed Cleantec CTL 26E and other items have lasted over 23 years that include jigsaws, skill saws, coedless drills and much more that still work well. I stopped using them a few years ago so just sat there at the moment and not sure I want to do any more restoration work. I used to rely on the Elu brand in the old days but that was bought out by Dewalt that is the standard go to and reliable generally speaking however I still believe that Festool is the top tier. I can PM you some tool models.

Cheers, Jag
 
@Jag Audio

Hi Jag, that would be very useful thanks. Just the vac info needed, Ive got all my routers. If you've been using in a renovation capacity, this way seem more akin to my 'handheld router' way.. as opposed to using on a fixed-position router table.

Aside from routers though chaps, could a circular saw --running along a track-- be used in a small workshop do you think, with some form of a decent dust system-? This is my no.2 nasty job for dust you see. My worst though.. is moving my router along my trusty 1/2" finger joint jig, in-out-in-out... & 8x 'gaps' removed, & I'm covered head to toe.

I'm just figuring out the benefits, from imagining it since the replies (new thinking for me), of a "fixed position router upside down situation". Totally unlike my 'renovation work method' Ive been using, IE taking a router by both hands, to the timber, & moving it along with cutter below. So the upside down thing.. has the benefit I guess, of aiming the fixed position dust hose more precisely? Hmm. Revolutionary thinking this, for me. But surely for me though, this would mean 5x individual router tables, with 5x routers mounted upside down eqch with a set bit in. As changing one bit for another, just having one router table... would be so much work & faff & time, that I'd be better off outside again. Unless I'm not imagining it correctly.

Thanks- Capt
 
HI, I use a Festool guide track that has a non slip base and the festool skill saw like all their tools have a plug in dust extraction fiiting so not much dust escapes. I forgot to mention that the long extraction has has an anti static feature that was useful when cleaning my computer work stations. I will send some details of model numbers tomorrow.

Regards, Jag
 
Hi James,

I was hoping you'd reply tbh. One of my routers is a dW 621.. but the other 4 are all different (got through 3x 621's in my time, the thread is the weak bit on this I found, apart from this it's good though).

I haven't seen router tables before, as I tend to use a router with a set bit (a roundover bit for edging, for eg, this job creates a huge ammount of extract & I'm -covered- head to foot in dust after 10mins) using two hands walking along with it, as it were: so if you imagine a speaker 4 sided 'shell', clamping it to a table, & running a router along the edges to shape them: this is how I'm working, for one of my 'nasty' jobs.

What I can only envisage, is a huge powerful dust vac hose, somehow following along with me. Or huge enough to suck from a bit of a distance, when I get to the end of my box edge. I've tried lower speeds, but I need reasonably fast to get a good finish, & crack on with the job without any delay too.

Thanks, Capt
You must do a lot of routing. I have two DW-621s and one is still brand new in its box. The other has helped me build at least 15 pairs of loudspeakers, maybe more if I count other projects.

I agree it is probably too much to ask for a speaker shell to be run along a router table. It would be far too unwieldy. The DW-621 ships with a range of dust extraction attachments, one of which is attached via the two tremmel bars. I've found it a simple matter to set the cutter position, adjust the dust collecting receptacle so it is as close as possible to the work-piece but not interfere with the cut, and attach a vacuum hose and start routing.

If you have two vacuum hoses, you could also attach the second to the turret extraction point for extra clearance.

There are very few cuts I make that can't be made relatively dustless.
 
Hi Capt, I've a cheap Nilfisk aero 26 and an expensive Metabo (2x the weight but used for angle grinder also)

Tbh, you won't do much better than a festool.

Also if I had the space and was serious about using my router table, I would build a 3' in feed and 3' out feed table for it. Ideal for routing bigger panels with good dust extraction.
 
One suggestion is to have the extraction tube suspended from the roof. I have on occasions had the tube catch as you pass down the material with the router and it then gives a mark in the wood. I bought a second hand old school dust extraction unit 600x 600 x600 with a 100mm diam tube. Great piece of kit.
Secondly looking at the router table shown above there is absolutely no way I would use it as shown in the photograph. There are no guards to stop you turning your fingers into mince meat and no kickback fingers on it . The video might show differently in use but you only have one set of fingers. Keep them attached!
 
My spindle moulder has better dust extraction than all 8 of my routers :rolleyes: and router table put together, and its much quicker than passing the router over the work.

My Makita 3612c has the best extraction of the all but its still not good

A good vac and dust extractor is essential, slow speeds, regular cleanup and a good mask.

Festool are good at dust control I have the Festool tracksaw and Domino and use a festool vacuum with both but they are expensive.

Pete
 
You must do a lot of routing. I have two DW-621s and one is still brand new in its box. The other has helped me build at least 15 pairs of loudspeakers, maybe more if I count other projects.

I agree it is probably too much to ask for a speaker shell to be run along a router table. It would be far too unwieldy. The DW-621 ships with a range of dust extraction attachments, one of which is attached via the two tremmel bars. I've found it a simple matter to set the cutter position, adjust the dust collecting receptacle so it is as close as possible to the work-piece but not interfere with the cut, and attach a vacuum hose and start routing.

If you have two vacuum hoses, you could also attach the second to the turret extraction point for extra clearance.

There are very few cuts I make that can't be made relatively dustless.

Ho again James, thanks for your advice.

I think I may have over-tightened the locking nut, tbh, on my bodged 621's .. beginner's mistakes. The one left I have now (set firm with a 12.7mm straight bit, never leaves it as the bit is stuck) only has the turret point hole: I didn't know there was any dust extraction base thingy, can't recall where I bought this 621 you see 10+ yrs ago.

Thinking of each of my jobs, using their specific router-with-bit-set-in, most if not all 5 jobs I can't envisage a "router table" affair being conjusive. Like my shell/ roundover job example, they're all rather like this. Router needs to be 'ontop' wood below, two hands used moving a router along the timber, the timber clamped fixed in place.

Similarly as my dW circ saw, & mitre saw, use the tool cutting down onto stationary wood below- so I need to consider the vac with this basis in mind. And go from there. A dW 621 "vac baseplate" is certainly the 1st thing I'll start with/ search for. Good startimg point this is. But it is but 1 job of 5 though.

I was thinking of making a divider for my workshop, 2/5ths the cutting side, hopefully with minimal dust but inevitably some.. & 3/5ths my clean 'finishing' glueing etc area, as it all is, currently. 4x4m is just enough for both 'sides'.

Thanks, Capt
 
I didn't know there was any dust extraction base thingy ....
This is what I'm talking about.

DW621_F5.jpg


Properly adjusted and attached to a high-flow vacuum, dust and chips generated from side cuts are cleanly whisked away. Well, mostly, if the extraction point is positioned much closer than the example below.

DW621_F11.jpg
 


advertisement


Back
Top