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Resurrection ... of the E-IVs

More access holes cut … I realised that I will only need one pivot hole … the minimum radius and maximum radius that I need to set are 53mm and 89mm … I will make up a new Perspex sheet tomorrow …
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I have been trying to source 1mm thick leather locally but no luck … I can order it from England but the supplier that was recommended only sells half and full hides … does anyone know a supplier that will sell offcuts?
 
Routing holes for drivers is a lot of fun. Make sure you have good dust extraction. MDF particles are not good for lungs.

Handy tip: routing at a low speed produces bigger chips that are less likely to float everywhere. Higher speed is required only for fine finish on the final pass.
 
quincy said:
I have been trying to source 1mm thick leather locally but no luck … I can order it from England but the supplier that was recommended only sells half and full hides … does anyone know a supplier that will sell offcuts?
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How much do you need? I got some small offcuts for my crossover boxes from eBay fairly easily.

For the proper cabs I did buy a whole hide and sold the spare on here to another Ergo builder and a Piano stool reupholster. I would imagine that is you get a half hide you will be able to sell the rest on here or eBay
 
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The PU fake leather is good for this sort of thing. It looks pretty convincing, is much easier to mold round the corners, is almost indestructible and is vegan for those that are bothered about that sort of thing. It's easily available and relatively cheap to. When I made a load of IX's most of them used it.
 
Driver boards held in place ( unglued ) and trimmed flush to the top and sides of chassis with a bearing-guided router bit … this afternoon I will cut the rebates and holes and sit down and have a long hard think about how to sculpture the boards
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Screwed a piece of scrap timber to the underside of the drover boards as an aid to clamping them while routering
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Then an unexpected event occurred … whilst cut the hole for the scan speak the router became very noisy with lots of vibration … a knurled screw had dislodged itself from the baseplate and began spinning with the router bit and cutting its own irregular groove … I immediately shot off the power … no great damage done
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Ouch! Thank goodness that didn't happen when you were routing the rebates. The actual cut out does not need to be totally neat - as long as there is material for the screws/bolts to bite into.

I hope the instructions I sent you for cutting the baffle profiles make sense.
 
There is enough mdf for the screws … the instructions are fine … I am thinking of making a mock-up of the tweeter cut-out with a back board and dowelling it to the chassis for a practice attempt
 
Spent an hour or so today on a test piece trying to come to grips with contouring the driver boards … I expected it to be a daunting task but it was reasonably straightforward
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Almost ready to glue the baffles on the chassis … can anyone recommend a UK supplier for M5 Allen head bolts and threaded inserts?
 
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