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Restore/polish acrylic cover SME 2000

3

33.3rpm

pfm Member
I recently bought a very nice Garrard 401 in an SME 2000 plinth. It looks the business in that plinth with its non-improved 3009 s2 arm but the acrylic/Perspex cover has a few marks on it which I would like to polish out. Has anyone done this and can recommend a suitable product and technique to get it looking good? Would make a nice Sunday afternoon project.

Thanks.
 
yes 1200 1500 wet and dry sand out the marks with a flat block water and a bit of fairy , then polish with teacut the red plastic bottle takes ages but you can get a nice finish , did my pioneer pl71 and a roksan xerxes
 
To do it yourself will take an age and any impatience will cost you.
If you can find a local outfit supplying either polished-edge acrylic sheet or making point-of-sale displays (such as PR Dispalys, although they are in Leicester, so not convenient for you), it would be far simpler.
The Polishing Shop has all the materials and, if memory serves, details online of what to use, how.
 
33.3rpm said:
I recently bought a very nice Garrard 401 in an SME 2000 plinth. It looks the business in that plinth with its non-improved 3009 s2 arm but the acrylic/Perspex cover has a few marks on it which I would like to polish out. Has anyone done this and can recommend a suitable product and technique to get it looking good? Would make a nice Sunday afternoon project.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
If it isn’t too badly scratched up I’d try metal polish, followed by car polish, followed by Greygate. That’s what I did a few days ago on my SL-10. It isn’t perfect by any means, but very presentable indeed, and it only took a couple of hours.

https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/technics-sl-10-thread.285278/post-5122002

Once you get to the sandpaper stage you are opening yourself up to a lot of very, very tedious rubbing IME.
 
A few years ago I had an MOT fail fogged headlight lens polished by a bodyshop and I could hardly believe how good it looked. Not expensive either, about £30.
 
Toothpaste works, too. Car polish compounds or headlight repair kits work well with a DA polisher if you have one or a friend who does. But, as above, a pro will get it done quickly and relatively cheaply.
 
Thanks for responses. Didn’t think of getting someone else to do it, if it’s not too pricey that is probably best. I also want to get the platter on my 301 refinished, another job for a workshop (sandblast and respray, then I can file off the strobe markings).

Cheers.
 
As above, but use much finer wet/dry sandpaper. Ah used 2000-3000 grit, 2000 first -damp, not wet...gently, ah'll say again...gently, then 3000, smooth sweeps back and forward, not round in circles, wipe dry. Ah then use T-Cut (Colorfast) dark blue or black in colour. Been told red is good also. Wipe on Colorfast , again, back and forward, not too thick, on a cloth , then polish like yer gonna die tomorrow... :cool:
 
Wax on…wax off…1 hr. On…@35 mins off

This lid was a real mess, 40 years of abuse…the stoic in me welcomed the challenge. :cool:


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oceanobsession said:
dont melt it if using a mop . phil.
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Indeed.. if you get the notion to machine polish it back to snuff, when paint finishes are cut and polished, the material being polished gets surprisingly hot. Also, if it catches due to the polish drying out, you might destroy your lid altogether. You will be surprised, however, a bit of elbow grease and cutting compound, can produce pleasing results.
 
A few years ago, our cat sat on my LP12 (lid closed fortunately) just after my wife had sprayed it with flea spray - I didn;t notice the problem till the following day when the lid had a huge - approx 15 x 15cm bloom foggy appearance ! It was completely opaque !!

After resisting the temptation to strangle the cat and divorce the wife I read up, searched the Net and repolished the lid with
Brasso - I used the type which comes in a tin already absorbed in a very soft lint like material. It took about 2 hours of polishing but came up like new.
 
grahamdocman said:
A few years ago, our cat sat on my LP12 (lid closed fortunately) just after my wife had sprayed it with flea spray - I didn;t notice the problem till the following day when the lid had a huge - approx 15 x 15cm bloom foggy appearance ! It was completely opaque !!

After resisting the temptation to strangle the cat and divorce the wife I read up, searched the Net and repolished the lid with
Brasso - I used the type which comes in a tin already absorbed in a very soft lint like material. It took about 2 hours of polishing but came up like new.
Click to expand...

Ditto with Brasso, although I use the liquid version with a cloth (usually an old T shirt ;) )
Used it for decades and works a treat without the tedious (and sometimes counter productive) sanding.
Most recently polished up an over 40 year old TT cover - looks much better now !!
Won't get rid of deep scratches though that tend to leave a blur at best - bodyshop probably much more effective on that score (not used one)
 
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grahamdocman said:
... repolished the lid with
Brasso - I used the type which comes in a tin already absorbed in a very soft lint like material.
Click to expand...
That's called a wadding polish, the commonest example is "Silvo". Brasso is normally a liquid. However, a quick (and specific) google shows that Brasso is also available in a wadding formulation.

It might be worth trying Silvo first - since silver is a softer and more precious metal than brass, I strongly suspect Silvo is a finer, gentler abrasive (all polishes are just very fine abrasives).

When restoring, ALWAYS try gentle methods before harsh methods.
 
QED back in the day had an excellent dust cover revival kit with a cerium oxide paste and a silicone wax. Anyone tried PolyWatch? DGP
 
bugbear said:
That's called a wadding polish, the commonest example is "Silvo". Brasso is normally a liquid. However, a quick (and specific) google shows that Brasso is also available in a wadding formulation.

It might be worth trying Silvo first - since silver is a softer and more precious metal than brass, I strongly suspect Silvo is a finer, gentler abrasive (all polishes are just very fine abrasives).

When restoring, ALWAYS try gentle methods before harsh methods.
Click to expand...


When I worked a lot with perspex jewellery back in the 80s we had a large revolving drum for small items we produced. It contained 6mm wooden cubes impregnated with a specialist mixture of beeswax and ground pumice. Took hours overnight but a fabulous result on pieces literally straight from the saw (fine HSS blades) with no further prep.
 
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